Builds What the Foo is this??? (1 Viewer)

[2fpower]

work on rear brakes

So, I took the junkyard axle and stole all the ebrake hardware off it, including shoes that looked new. Here is a picture of the old and new ebrake part. WOW. On the pass side the junkyard part looked new. On the driver side there was still lots of corrosion. I took it to the electrolisis tank and it freed it up enough for me to get apart then sandblast and paint them up.

Also, the rear lower control arm was pretty bent on foo, so I swapped it out. Weird how the 94' was thicker than this on the 96'. The weight was similar, so I was assuming the one that came on Foo was OEM. Did they change to a smaller diameter pipe in 96"?

I was wondering can one cut the control arm (thicker one) and put a thick wall pipe inside of it and then weld it back together? Seems like it would make it pretty indestructible.

 

[2fpower]

While I was under the rig, I found some bad wiring splices. Tore it all out cleaned the wires and soldered them together and heat shrinked it. Tested the lockers front and back and everything working great.

Took it out yesterday on the highway for the first time in a year. Did great!

I still have check engine light since the cats were pulled. Trying to decide if I should add the Magnaflow 59906 or the sim thingy.

 

[Trapper50cal]

I was wondering can one cut the control arm (thicker one) and put a thick wall pipe inside of it and then weld it back together? Seems like it would make it pretty indestructible.

Actually folks are doing the opposite...getting a larger ID tube, splitting it and welding it to the outside of the LCA....

or buying indestructible LandTank LCA's (which are solid rod rather than tubing, IIRC)

 

[2fpower]

I read up alot about this. Very cool. I think I will keep the extra set and straighten the bent one and do this. Thanks,

Actually folks are doing the opposite...getting a larger ID tube, splitting it and welding it to the outside of the LCA....

or buying indestructible LandTank LCA's (which are solid rod rather than tubing, IIRC)

 

[lrowe_csp]

Great to see the work you are doing on that truck- you are bringing it back from the dead. Hard to tell what your favorite foo color is, perhaps orange?

 

[2fpower]

You know it. Metaltech Orange

 

[2fpower]

Forgot to post up pics of the armor on it.

 

[Mikesta]

Subscribed!

 

[2fpower]

Decision time----

Planning on making a convertible out of FOO in anticpation of some fall wheeling. Thinking of cutting behind sunroof, so leaving the top above the driver. This will allow me to keep driving it daily and when the pop up rainstorm comes, there are no worries. I would also leave front doors alone, and b pillars.

So, options 1: Cut behind sunroof, leave b pillar and front doors. Back doors take off window top frame, cap them, roll bar from front window frame back. Make tube doors for front and back doors.

option 2. Cut at windshield top, roll bar all from there back. rollbar build into b pillar to reinforce. no door windows will work without top of window frame, so gut doors and cap.

I am looking for any pictures of option 1. I have seen drexx pictures of cutting roof behind back doors-- that looks ok too. Maybe that is option 3.

 

[warezdog]

I did my 85 grand waggy from b pillar backwards also leaving the roof above the driver.

 

[matt32]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/al-dixieland-cruisers/393115-what-about-bob.html

 

[2fpower]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/al-dixieland-cruisers/393115-what-about-bob.html

Great thread and transformation over time. I want to wheel with kids in backseat, so need to keep space for them.

maybe I need to invent some sort of removable top.

 

[OGBeno]

Just went through the thread.....

Great work here. Nice job in reconstituting everything correctly!

 

[2fpower]

Just went through the thread.....

Great work here. Nice job in reconstituting everything correctly!

Thanks! .... I consider this project a journey. Foo Phase II is play toy.

 

[2fpower]

As I said above, Foo stage two has begun. The whole thread is here, but I will add some highlights to this thread to keep the entire journey in one spot.


https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/755149-55-days-166-miles-smorr-2013-a.html


The goal was to take a beat up 80 and make a convertible (read roadster as there is no top going back on) for taking off roading and keeping it street legal to play in town.

 

[2fpower]

The start

Here is FOO at the beginning of the process.

I wanted to do this as FOO stage II for some time; however, it really all got committed to when a local club member needed a rear glass. Glass came out, and that money went to buy the steel for the roll cage.

After much research, I learned that the rear door is best to fuse them together first so they line up perfect, so that was done first, then we cut it out.

 

[2fpower]

So then came the fun part .... chopping the top off.

Just like a haircut, easy to take more off later, not so easy to add it back though.

I was amazed at how light the cut out section was. Definitely not taking weight off the rig with the roll bar weight.

 

[2fpower]

I had decided to use the body line that was left where the window was taken out.

I wanted the option of putting the doors back on for winter runs, so that gave me the idea to leave the pillars intact. I was surprised at how stout they are, so very happy with the protection they give. I did want to add a rollbar running north / south, and with the size of the tube above the doors, gave me the idea to hide the 1.75" .120 pipe inside of it.

Torched out the low spots where there were captured nuts and bent the pipe to slide in. I sectioned the last four inches of the front end to be welded to the thick metal at the top of the windshield.

Then I bent some metal to cap off the portion where the tube entered the tube.

Later I would come back and add a skin over the entire section to hide it all.

 

[2fpower]

Here are pics of the skin. I added captured nuts to add the "oh heck" bars back.

We bent four pieces of tube for top cage protection. One piece fit nice and tight above the front windshield, one behind sunroof, then two behind passenger compartment.

We made a cardboard cutout of the profile then bent the pipe by putting it into a tube on my tractor and then just pulling on the other end of the pipe until we got the profile we wanted. Worked like a charm, making almost identical bends. The one behind the sunroof shows how accurate it was. You can barely see light in the gap!

 

[2fpower]

There are those "oh poop" bars, then added a HF winch and welded in all the holes from different things.