What supporting mods to run 40s (1 Viewer)

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That’s why I haven’t gone 40s. I have 2 friends that are hell bent on it and since I wheel with them I’m afraid most out trips will be ruined by having to fix the crap they are going to keep breaking. I also didn’t want to get left behind while they can do stuff I can’t. I think 40s will probably ruin the versatility of the Truck. As of now we drive all over the country to wheel and have fun. 37s have been flawless for me to do everything and be real Ke. I think 40s will start tipping it in the wrong direction but what do I know? Not much.
 
If you want to play in the big rocks, a lighter rig is preferable. A 3rd gen 4R on 80 series axles on 37s will go further. On Dana 60’s even further.

Or a 2nd gen 4R :cheers:

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The weigh in for my 2nd gen, just over 5k lbs fully loaded out for camping , ice chest , gas cans, water, tools etc.....light rigs rock
 
That’s why I haven’t gone 40s. I have 2 friends that are hell bent on it and since I wheel with them I’m afraid most out trips will be ruined by having to fix the crap they are going to keep breaking. I also didn’t want to get left behind while they can do stuff I can’t. I think 40s will probably ruin the versatility of the Truck. As of now we drive all over the country to wheel and have fun. 37s have been flawless for me to do everything and be real Ke. I think 40s will start tipping it in the wrong direction but what do I know? Not much.
Exactly! The day you expect not to make a compromise is the day you need not get out of bed.

But seriously, the way you wheel, you would be well served to invest in RCV’s front, Nitro’s rear, t-case gears, part time kit, perhaps ARP studs in every location they are made for, front axle truss, diff armor and a good winch you're not too proud to use.

2fpower did hydro assist on “foo” leaving the tie rod in the stock location. I plan to study up on this better myself.

Your front 8” is reverse rotation which makes it pretty tough in forward gear but reversing out of a bind with the front locker engaged especially with wheels turned full to one side and your ass end up hill is bad juju. It been said here and I still had to confirm this therory myself. Since then I have stepped up to 37’s and RCV’s without issue but it’s been less than a year.

And 4runners are just another little box on wheels that are a dime a dozen.
 
I am with nukegoat, take a look at this build thread, he does make a point on overbuilding something that’s not going to fail. I think we all hate to spend a precious wheeling weekend fixing our junk when you decide to change your wheeling obstacle level. A rig can do pretty much do anything , from 31’s to whatever size tire you name, it’s up to the individual to make this decisions,
I am going to swap axles over the winter on a father and son 80 project just because we want to enjoy every adventure or is it just because I am getting old and don’t want to be bother fixing s*** on the trail.
Forums can be evil but fun to read, a lot of people will steer you out of your dreams. Do what’s on your budget as long as you have fun with it.
 
B - C - D are tied together how they are to keep the cage from folding back since the sweep of the A pillar makes it the weakest point. Dash looks like a normal 80 dash, the A pillars are outside of the truck.
I get you don't want rectangulation but if the roof structure was properly triangulated into a plane, wouldn't the triangulation between C and D pillars prevent a parallelogram-collapse from a frontal hit? And further, wouldn't it be more important to triangulate where that bend on the B pillar is to prevent a direct load down to the ground plane from collapsing that tube right there? I could be way wrong on all this, just trying to understand cage design a little better. Yours truly looks fantastic.
 
Besides running heavy one tons, a pair of ford 9" axles could be built and probably be a bit lighter with greater differential clearance. But it would be more expensive probably.
Yes and no. Pinion is wayyyyyy low and really only ideal if you're running a spool - the carriers are sort of anemically proportioned. Great for desert racing, fine in a $$$$$ high pinion situation, not so great for our purposes IMO.
 
I get you don't want rectangulation but if the roof structure was properly triangulated into a plane, wouldn't the triangulation between C and D pillars prevent a parallelogram-collapse from a frontal hit? And further, wouldn't it be more important to triangulate where that bend on the B pillar is to prevent a direct load down to the ground plane from collapsing that tube right there? I could be way wrong on all this, just trying to understand cage design a little better. Yours truly looks fantastic.

I was fully expecting a head gasket comment towards the end. You have ruined me.
 
why not run 37s they go everywhere(as do 35s) a lot less serious mods JMO
This is the same fallacious argument that I hear people make all the time in politics re: taxes or whatever else. "You won't notice less than .1% of your income being taken away" or "nobody will buy less cigarettes because the price went up (insert some small amount here)." It's a fallacy - at the margin, incremental things do matter. If you're *just* about to clear a rock on 37s, 40s give you another 1.5" of ground clearance, etc.

So, no, 35s are not going to go everywhere a rig on 40s does. No way. I don't know who you're talking to but they aren't very smart.
 
I was fully expecting a head gasket comment towards the end. You have ruined me.
I'm like /u/s***tymorph except with head gaskets?
 
Or a 2nd gen 4R :cheers:


The weigh in for my 2nd gen, just over 5k lbs fully loaded out for camping , ice chest , gas cans, water, tools etc.....light rigs rock

IFS to SA always ends up being too high for my tastes.
 
I get you don't want rectangulation but if the roof structure was properly triangulated into a plane, wouldn't the triangulation between C and D pillars prevent a parallelogram-collapse from a frontal hit? And further, wouldn't it be more important to triangulate where that bend on the B pillar is to prevent a direct load down to the ground plane from collapsing that tube right there? I could be way wrong on all this, just trying to understand cage design a little better. Yours truly looks fantastic.


Ultimately, since this is a family wheeler and gets a back seat installed this winter, I needed to be able to retain access from both doors. Triangulating the B-pilliar strait down to the c-pillar floor plate would have been the 2nd best option, with the first being eliminating the sunroof and running the B pillar as near vertical as possible. The bend in the B-pilliar was for both sunroof clearance, back seat access, and head clearance. The full X combined with the B-C-D tie in was the best compromise of strength and clearance supporting both the B-pilliar bend, and the A-pilliar sweep. Roof is all tied together to keep it as one solid piece, with the back overhang even sleeved with 18" of 1.5x.250 on each side, for when I am using the cage to slide past something. With the roof structure and its triangulation I could have gotten away with just tying the C-D together to keep it from collapsing, but really needed to support the B-pillar beyond just the X.

In the end I had to make compromises to retain functionality and still keep it safe, and worked to keep as few bends as possible in the overall structure.

Hope that helps, and I apologize for the thread hijack.
 
You are venturing into big money territory if you really do wheel hard and often. I have seen a couple of your videos and your style seems to be defined by optimistic enthusiasm.

You don’t mind using the skinny pedal. Do you see where I’m headed with this?

Right, but bigger tires mean less need for the skinny pedal.

Biggest issue is the 4.88’s mistake since 5.29 is the best ratio for 35” and up.

Question isn’t really tires, it’s whether you are going to go up a level in trail difficulty since it’s the trail that will break s*** not your tires.
 
Right, but bigger tires mean less need for the skinny pedal.

Biggest issue is the 4.88’s mistake since 5.29 is the best ratio for 35” and up.

Question isn’t really tires, it’s whether you are going to go up a level in trail difficulty since it’s the trail that will break s*** not your tires.
Yeah but does he know that? We can argue the 4.88 vs 5.29 thing forever. 4.88’s plus 3.1 low range leaves me quite comfy on 37’s. Another 8% is just splitting hairs.
 
Right, but bigger tires mean less need for the skinny pedal.

Biggest issue is the 4.88’s mistake since 5.29 is the best ratio for 35” and up.

Question isn’t really tires, it’s whether you are going to go up a level in trail difficulty since it’s the trail that will break s*** not your tires.
5.29 would be ideal but I do have tcase reduction. Wish I had some 40s to try out first
 
Hope that helps, and I apologize for the thread hijack.

would you happen to have your own thread on building this cage? It's not something I would be able to do myself but I'm always interested whenever I have seen pics of this 80 pop up.
 
would you happen to have your own thread on building this cage? It's not something I would be able to do myself but I'm always interested whenever I have seen pics of this 80 pop up.

I don't. It' been on my to do list for over a year, as I do have the build fairly well documented over the last 7.5 years. Not great, but I do have a decent amount of pics.

You are definitely not the first to ask me if I had ever done a build thread. One day I'll actually put one together.
 
I don't. It' been on my to do list for over a year, as I do have the build fairly well documented over the last 7.5 years. Not great, but I do have a decent amount of pics.

You are definitely not the first to ask me if I had ever done a build thread. One day I'll actually put one together.

Howd you go through the body and seal it up? Sandwich with plates?

Ive been wanting to do a hybrid on mine for a while. Maybe some day Ill get around to it.
 

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