What should I refresh on 1HD-T? (1 Viewer)

[themorb]

I just pulled my 1HD-T out of my HDJ81 and I will be putting it into a FZJ80 in about a month. (Waiting on transmission from Oz.)

It was running fine with 283,000 kms on the clock. BEBs are 70,000 kms old and timing belt is 90,000 kms old. I will do both of those while the engine is out. Also rear main seal since it has been leaking a bit.

So for all you 1HD-T gurus out there, if you had your engine on a stand for a month, what else would you check/replace? Is it worth pulling the head to do valve stem seals? Should I check crank bearings? New rings to see if they help reduce smoke?

I don't want to waste my time, but I want to take advantage of having it out!

 

[618Henrik]

I just pulled my 1HD-T out of my HDJ81 and I will be putting it into a FZJ80 in about a month. (Waiting on transmission from Oz.)

It was running fine with 283,000 kms on the clock. BEBs are 70,000 kms old and timing belt is 90,000 kms old. I will do both of those while the engine is out. Also rear main seal since it has been leaking a bit.

So for all you 1HD-T gurus out there, if you had your engine on a stand for a month, what else would you check/replace? Is it worth pulling the head to do valve stem seals? Should I check crank bearings? New rings to see if they help reduce smoke?

I don't want to waste my time, but I want to take advantage of having it out!

I had mine taken apart at 300.000km. The main bearing showed sign of wear and when I had it open I had the head done. The exchaust valve stem guides was all bad and got replaced.

 

[IanB]

Might be a good time to adjust the valves, as you may need to order shims which results in some downtime if the engine is in your daily already. If you want an OEM style block heater, it's a good time to get that looked after as well.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I just pulled my 1HD-T out of my HDJ81 and I will be putting it into a FZJ80 in about a month. (Waiting on transmission from Oz.)

It was running fine with 283,000 kms on the clock. BEBs are 70,000 kms old and timing belt is 90,000 kms old. I will do both of those while the engine is out. Also rear main seal since it has been leaking a bit.

So for all you 1HD-T gurus out there, if you had your engine on a stand for a month, what else would you check/replace? Is it worth pulling the head to do valve stem seals? Should I check crank bearings? New rings to see if they help reduce smoke?

I don't want to waste my time, but I want to take advantage of having it out!

It's a slippery slope.
If you pull the head, you should have it checked and the valves done.
If you have the head off, you might as well do the rings. If you do the rings, you need to check the bore first.
If you want to do the main bearings, everything has to come apart to get at them, then you might as well have the crank and block checked, rehoned or rebored, and put new pistons in (which you can only order once you know how the bore is). You'll also need new seals then.
None of this is difficult, but it'll take time...but a month is enough.
J

 

[CycloSteve]

Jan you are spot-on with the "while you are in there disease." Compression test should give you an idea if the head should be pulled. Basically at the same point with my 1HD-FT. One of those whatever your budget is, it will go over activities.



Steve

 

[Tapage]

It's a slippery slope.

will add expensive .. the key point to me is if you pull the head or not .. and then if you comp test shows it's necessary ..

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Nathaniel,

Let me know if you want a hand with any of the work, I'm usually free on weekends and get a day or two off during the week. I could pop by and offer..... well not much really. LOL. I could pack away some old useless 80 parts though.

Seriously though, if you are short on tools let me know and stay in touch.

Cam

 

[roscoFJ73]

I just pulled my 1HD-T out of my HDJ81 and I will be putting it into a FZJ80 in about a month. (Waiting on transmission from Oz.)

It was running fine with 283,000 kms on the clock. BEBs are 70,000 kms old and timing belt is 90,000 kms old. I will do both of those while the engine is out. Also rear main seal since it has been leaking a bit.

So for all you 1HD-T gurus out there, if you had your engine on a stand for a month, what else would you check/replace? Is it worth pulling the head to do valve stem seals? Should I check crank bearings? New rings to see if they help reduce smoke?

I don't want to waste my time, but I want to take advantage of having it out!

Do the timing belt and rear seal and drive it for the time being. I would probably get the pump bench tested and the injectors rebuilt.
Then reassess it in the coming months.
If its not blowing smoke or losing oil ,consider it good.

When it does make smoke or burn oil,rebuild the whole lot.

 

[ForealBoreal]

get the valves done, do your water pump while your doing the timing belt.
after the valves are done get a compression test.

Next i would:
Time the fuel pump to advanced as possible within spec, tune the fuel rod and star wheel (throw me a pm with your email)
Throw on a gturbo, modify your intake manifold and prep for a front mount intercooler.

 

[themorb]

It's a slippery slope.

This is exactly why I started this thread. I don't need more slippery slopes. Swapping the 1HD-T into a LHD truck is a big enough project for now. But I'll be kicking myself if I have to pull the engine again for some reason...

Sounds like general consensus is, if the compression is ok (which it is) leave the head on. So I guess I'll do the timing belt, water pump, BEBs, rear main, and if I have any "spare time" (haha) before my tranny arrives, I could try valve stem seals with the compressed air trick, etc. leaving the head on.

Injectors and pump have been done recently... so we're all good in that dept.

 

[themorb]

If you want to do the main bearings, everything has to come apart to get at them

Is this really true? It's been a couple years since I had the pan off, but I assumed that if the engine was upside down on a stand with the BEB caps off, I could just pull off the main caps and pull the crank? Maybe I am mistaken...

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Is this really true? It's been a couple years since I had the pan off, but I assumed that if the engine was upside down on a stand with the BEB caps off, I could just pull off the main caps and pull the crank? Maybe I am mistaken...

Yes, you are mistaken

With the pan off you can get at the rod bearings. However, these engines do not have main caps, they have a giant single main cap/girdle, which is essentially a 80lb piece of metal and the lower part of the block. To pull that you need to remove the timing gears, oil pump, rear main holder and then all the bolts that hold the girdle on (see engine manual page EM 89 and following).
cheers,
Jan

 

[themorb]

HA! Yes I see now where the block splits. Talk about a slippery slope. Don't think I'll be taking all that apart this time!

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

HA! Yes I see now where the block splits. Talk about a slippery slope. Don't think I'll be taking all that apart this time!

The main bearings never go bad on these blocks anyway...
cheers,
Jan

 

[618Henrik]

The main bearings never go bad on these blocks anyway...
cheers,
Jan

They may not go really bad but this is a photo of mine after 300.000km
(the small ones are BEB and the larger ones are main)

 

[618Henrik]

BTW here is a link to album showing the complete process of taking apart and putting back together a 1HD-T

https://plus.google.com/photos/111388938395217619086/albums/5839536714859478849?authkey=CJ2k-cattvSVaw

 

[themorb]

Wow, thanks 618Henrik those photos are great! What a project! It is reassuring to see that your mains didn't have nearly as bad delamination as the BEBs. I think I'll leave mine alone and do a proper rebuild closer to the 500,000 kms mark. My engine was running fine before I pulled it and everything seems very clean inside, etc. I think it has had very regular maintenance its whole life.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

They may not go really bad but this is a photo of mine after 300.000km
(the small ones are BEB and the larger ones are main)

Yes, the BEB's are dead, but your mains are fine. I bet they looked exactly like that after a 1000 mile break in period.
cheers,
jan

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

BTW here is a link to album showing the complete process of taking apart and putting back together a 1HD-T

https://plus.google.com/photos/111388938395217619086/albums/5839536714859478849?authkey=CJ2k-cattvSVaw

Very nicely documented.
I just took a 1HDFT apart last weekend, the whole disassembly took a good day, cleaning all the parts and getting the old RTV off another good half day.
Assembly with all new pistons, bearings and seals will take about a weekend.

I especially liked the detail of pointing out the little bb that controls the oil flow to the head. I searched for this forever on the 1HDFT, thinking that I lost it, but it does not show up in the manual either, so I think the later engines do not have it.

cheers,
jan

 

[618Henrik]

Wow, thanks 618Henrik those photos are great! What a project! It is reassuring to see that your mains didn't have nearly as bad delamination as the BEBs. I think I'll leave mine alone and do a proper rebuild closer to the 500,000 kms mark. My engine was running fine before I pulled it and everything seems very clean inside, etc. I think it has had very regular maintenance its whole life.

I only did the mains because I had to put a replacement crank in it. I measured the cylinder bores, all was well within spec. Did replace the rings thou.
The cylinder / head shop said that the head gasket had been very close to begin leaking, so I had the head done. The most worn down part was the exhaust valve guides, the were way out of spec.

Updated the album with at few pics of the refurbished head.

That little oil nozzle I point my dirty finger at in one of the pictures is extremely important and is really easy to loose when you drop it at a dirty shop floor