What services should I get done to baseline LC? (1 Viewer)

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Hello Everyone. Thank you in advance for your advise. I recently acquired a 2003 LC with 110K miles on it. The last major services performed on this vehicle were in 2011 @97K. They replaced the following: Diff fluids, Coolant, Transmission fluid, drive belt, water pump and timing belt. The vehicle was driven about 13k since 2011. I am looking to baseline the services/maintenance so need your advise. Based on my conversation at the local dealership, i was suggested to replace all the fluids first and then look at other components. Here is the list of services I am considering to start with:
Diff services
Power Steering
Transmission
Engine Oil
Transfer Case
Coolant Flush
Spark Plugs
Heater Ts and Hoses
Drive Belt

What do you suggest? Can timing belt/water pump services wait ? How to tell if timing belt service is needed? What else do i need to look at? Thank you for your inputs.

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Your list is a great place to start for sure. I would also consider looking at all your rubber bits. After 20 years they could be needing some love. TB/WP service is generally performed at 90k so mileage wise not time but age may. I will let someone who is more versed in that area to speakup. How is the steering feel/Look. Take a look at the boots etc and make sure its not leaking. CV boot is another. Others will chime in I am sure with other items to look at...
 
Your list is a good start, but make this first: Heater Ts. I slightly flexed my heater hoses nearby, and they shattered - which means failure was imminent. Be super careful taking them apart, as you can lose hunks of 'tee' inside the heater lines (if they shatter) and that's not good.

I would also pull all the wheels and look at brake pads, slide pins, rotors, etc. and adjust the parking brake. Assume nothing was done correctly or competently in the past, in spite of what you know.
 
Thanks. I thought it was a good price, if not great. Hard to tell pricing on 100s.
 
Im sure you will have found them by now but there are a few recent threads with low mileage examples that have needed some major repairs. this is not to say you will need the same, but that you should do all of the maintenance now as if it has never been done. This should include all fluids, cracked or dry rubbers, Plastic cooling parts and pulleys imo. Timing and WP should be on the list. Depending on how handy you are, much of these items are DIY except perhaps the timing. Others here may say to change the fluids and ride it till it breaks but you'll get the best performance with preventive maintenance which you already know this vehicle has not recently had. You got a great price, now time to spend the rest;) Enjoy
 
I recommend adding AT-205 with all your fluid changes (not brakes or coolant, of course). It adds plasticizer back into the rubber seals, which has likely leeched out over the years. Cheap insurance.

If the timing belt was done 13k miles ago, I wouldn't sweat it. Although there is a time limit (7 years?) I don't recall anyone ever seeing evidence of a belt breaking based on age. The 2003 is a non interference engine, so even if the worse happens it would only be an inconvenience.

Your tires are probably also toast. DOT recommends replacing after 6 years no matter mileage.
 
I recommend adding AT-205 with all your fluid changes (not brakes or coolant, of course). It adds plasticizer back into the rubber seals, which has likely leeched out over the years. Cheap insurance.

If the timing belt was done 13k miles ago, I wouldn't sweat it. Although there is a time limit (7 years?) I don't recall anyone ever seeing evidence of a belt breaking based on age. The 2003 is a non interference engine, so even if the worse happens it would only be an inconvenience.

Your tires are probably also toast. DOT recommends replacing after 6 years no matter mileage.
Do people often replace timing belts by age? I recently bought a 2001 LX470, which I understand IS an interference 2uz-fe, with 322k. The timing belt was replaced in 2014 at 290k. I had no intention of changing the timing belt and I had it with my mechanic this week for an inspection and he did not recommend replacement knowing those facts.
 
Do people often replace timing belts by age? I recently bought a 2001 LX470, which I understand IS an interference 2uz-fe, with 322k. The timing belt was replaced in 2014 at 290k. I had no intention of changing the timing belt and I had it with my mechanic this week for an inspection and he did not recommend replacement knowing those facts.
The non-VVTI engines (1998-2005 in the 100/470) are not interference engines. Yes, many places on the internet will tell you that (and I think even Toyota says it in places), but its been checked many times by folks on here and its not. The VVTI engine (06-07) is definitely interference, on the other hand.
 
same shoes as you. glad I found this thread/.
Here is another thread that i am reading through and seems like a really good one. My 2006 LC100 170K Baselining Project - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-2006-lc100-170k-baselining-project.1332152/ I am not a handy person but after getting a quote from a local mechanic to change the sparks plugs ( $599 total of which $420 is just labor), I am thinking of investing in tools and do it myself. I think i can follow directions, hopefully will not make costly mistakes.
 
I am not a handy person but after getting a quote from a local mechanic to change the sparks plugs ( $599 total of which $420 is just labor)

Spark plugs are downright easy and rewarding, if you read up, take your time, watch a Youtube video, and study things. After you do that, you'll feel empowered to do more.
 
Here is another thread that i am reading through and seems like a really good one. My 2006 LC100 170K Baselining Project - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-2006-lc100-170k-baselining-project.1332152/ I am not a handy person but after getting a quote from a local mechanic to change the sparks plugs ( $599 total of which $420 is just labor), I am thinking of investing in tools and do it myself. I think i can follow directions, hopefully will not make costly mistakes.
Spark plugs are easy on this vehicle…

It also gives you a chance to take a look at the condition of the ignition coils and coil boots. Also, look for rodent nesting materials… chewed wiring or plastic/ rubber parts, firewall insulation, etc.

Just a word of advice… Do not use anti-seize on the spark plug threads…
NEVER… Unless it is recommended by the OEM manufacturer.
 
Spark plugs are easy on this vehicle…

It also gives you a chance to take a look at the condition of the ignition coils and coil boots. Also, look for rodent nesting materials… chewed wiring or plastic/ rubber parts, firewall insulation, etc.

Just a word of advice… Do not use anti-seize on the spark plug threads…
NEVER… Unless it is recommended by the OEM manufacturer.
Thank you. Appreciate the advice.
 
Getting ready to change fluids over the weekend: Transfer case, rear and front diff. Toyota manual calls for 75w-90. I called the local dealership and they told me that they only sell 75w85, and that is what they use for all their shop work. They quoted me like 90$ a quart for the Toyota label and about 35$ for some generic 75w85, that they use in the shop. The guy said using 75w85 in place of 75w90 is no issue. Just to stay with what the manual is calling for, i found this on sale by Napa https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VAL882505 Can this be used for all three ( Diffs and Transfer Case)? Please advise so that i can order before it goes off sale. Thank you all in advance.
 
Yes the gear oil from napa would be fine. You will also need a smaller oil container with a hand pump attachment to actually get the oil into the diffs or other available apparatuses, as the big jug of gear oil definitely wont help with the filling process.
 
Valvoline 75w90 in the bags is awfully convenient, and a top rated oil.
 

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