Yr, LC or LX. Vary in PM needs. Best, to list what you have.
But I'd say a very lame inspection, for a 300K miles 100 series. Unless very well cared for, which only a few used new purchases are.
Some items listed, indicate, it was not well cared for. Like; axle play/hub flange clunk & CV (AKA: FDS) boots, brake pulse.
That said:
- Brakes are a safety items, so takes top priority.
- Next look at issue that may result in damage and or additional cost, if not take care of now. Filters & leaks are some of those to be considered.
- All used vehicle should have all fluid flushed.
"Brake pulse" is a bit vague. We typically feel the pulse in steering wheel and or vehicle bucking and or pedal. Excessive brake pulse, may result pound (pulsing) of fluid, back into master/ABS unit. This can result in ABS issue, in old brake master fluid not well cared for.
Grade your master:
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
"Brake pulse" This indicates, warped (runout greater than spec limit and or parallelism, out of spec) brake rotors disk surface. We feel this much more, from fronts rotors than rears.
"Brake pulse" an easy fix: Have rotor disk surface, machine turned on the vehicle (OTV). Runs about $100 per rotor. With OTV Brake Lathes, no need disassemble wheel hubs. OTV are sweet. As they true rotors to the vehicle. It is the best way to go. But wheel bearing must be tight.
I'm having issue with run-out! Typically I do not put a run out gauge on turned Rotors or new OEM. But decided to in this case, on just one to start with. Well ended up put run-out dial gauge on all. Procedure is to remove rotor and turn to new position on hub, if out of spec, or just wanting...
forum.ih8mud.com
Damaging:
R&R air filter. Dust entering air intake, is hard on engines.
Take care of ATF leaks. May just be hose and or clamp. Also, fitting (nipple) coming from engine radiator, A/T cooler hose fits on, has a nut. Often times, aftermarket radiators, the nut on fitting needs to be snugged.
Radiator round hatch missing from #1 skid. Allows addition road water spray, to hit alternator.
Steering boot leak. We can live with a little, but keep level up. Play in steering, likely bad rack mounting bushings. Bad bushing & leaking racke, R&R rack & pinion.
No big deal:
CDL stick, from lack of use. Often, then they free up by exercising them (using repeatedly), over time.
Fogs.
Oil hatch.