Which of these recommendations should I get done?

[Rhetoric]

Thanks! Good to know on OEM parts. Do shops really allow you to bring your own parts and just charge labor?

Some do. My trusted mechanic does not. He will only use parts from Toyota that he procures.

My local Lexus dealership will allow customer supplied parts and only charge labor. But no warranty of work done.

 

[Jwoodywild]

Yr, LC or LX. Vary in PM needs. Best, to list what you have.

But I'd say a very lame inspection, for a 300K miles 100 series. Unless very well cared for, which only a few used new purchases are.
Some items listed, indicate, it was not well cared for. Like; axle play/hub flange clunk & CV (AKA: FDS) boots, brake pulse.

That said:

1. Brakes are a safety items, so takes top priority.
2. Next look at issue that may result in damage and or additional cost, if not take care of now. Filters & leaks are some of those to be considered.
3. All used vehicle should have all fluid flushed.

"Brake pulse" is a bit vague. We typically feel the pulse in steering wheel and or vehicle bucking and or pedal. Excessive brake pulse, may result pound (pulsing) of fluid, back into master/ABS unit. This can result in ABS issue, in old brake master fluid not well cared for.

Grade your master:

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

"Brake pulse" This indicates, warped (runout greater than spec limit and or parallelism, out of spec) brake rotors disk surface. We feel this much more, from fronts rotors than rears.

"Brake pulse" an easy fix: Have rotor disk surface, machine turned on the vehicle (OTV). Runs about $100 per rotor. With OTV Brake Lathes, no need disassemble wheel hubs. OTV are sweet. As they true rotors to the vehicle. It is the best way to go. But wheel bearing must be tight.

Brake rotors, machining / turning

I'm having issue with run-out! Typically I do not put a run out gauge on turned Rotors or new OEM. But decided to in this case, on just one to start with. Well ended up put run-out dial gauge on all. Procedure is to remove rotor and turn to new position on hub, if out of spec, or just wanting...

forum.ih8mud.com

Damaging:

R&R air filter. Dust entering air intake, is hard on engines.

Take care of ATF leaks. May just be hose and or clamp. Also, fitting (nipple) coming from engine radiator, A/T cooler hose fits on, has a nut. Often times, aftermarket radiators, the nut on fitting needs to be snugged.

Radiator round hatch missing from #1 skid. Allows addition road water spray, to hit alternator.

Steering boot leak. We can live with a little, but keep level up. Play in steering, likely bad rack mounting bushings. Bad bushing & leaking racke, R&R rack & pinion.

No big deal:

CDL stick, from lack of use. Often, then they free up by exercising them (using repeatedly), over time.
Fogs.
Oil hatch.

Thanks. I changed the engine and cabin filters. The truck is in great shape and has been well maintained. We drove it across country last summer and all the fluids were flushed before that drive.

Good to know on the brakes - sounds like you are saying to have the rotors resurfaced when the pads are changed?

 

[2001LC]

Thanks. I changed the engine and cabin filters. The truck is in great shape and has been well maintained. We drove it across country last summer and all the fluids were flushed before that drive.

Good to know on the brakes - sounds like you are saying to have the rotors resurfaced when the pads are changed?

Resurface, wherever needed. Key is, wheel hub bearings can't have any play.

If with new pads, great. But can done with worn in pads. I'll sand down old pads, to take off glaze or more, resurfacing if needed.

Most fail to check runout of wheel hub in rears and rotors of front and rear, during installed. Or even clean the rust and crude from wheel hub.

FSM recommends mounting new rotors, running out, dismount & mount runout and repeat to each lug position (5 times). Than set at best runout position and mark. If still out of spec, resurface. With rear's, easy takes about 30 minutes. With fronts, it's not practical. So we toss on OTV and true them up.

The one nobody checks, is parallelism. That is the variation in thickness between inner and outer disk surface. Which max spec is 0.0008". Standard caliper can't accurately read .0008". But if out of spec, can really make a vehicle buck. Toss on the OTV, band. Perfect parallelism!

 

[Jwoodywild]

Resurface, wherever needed. Key is, wheel hub bearings can't have any play.

If with new pads, great. But can done with worn in pads. I'll sand down old pads, to take off glaze or more, resurfacing if needed.

Most fail to check runout of wheel hub in rears and rotors of front and rear, during installed. Or even clean the rust and crude from wheel hub.

FSM recommends mounting new rotors, running out, dismount & mount runout and repeat to each lug position (5 times). Than set at best runout position and mark. If still out of spec, resurface. With rear's, easy takes about 30 minutes. With fronts, it's not practical. So we toss on OTV and true them up.

The one nobody checks, is parallelism. That is the variation in thickness between inner and outer disk surface. Which max spec is 0.0008". Standard caliper can't accurately read .0008". But if out of spec, can really make a vehicle buck. Toss on the OTV, band. Perfect parallelism!

Wow! You are clearly knowledgeable about this. I know nothing - what kind of shop do I need to get this done?

 

[2001LC]

Toyota or Lexus Dealership, for one.