What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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Looks like 4 slices of heavy duty fuel injection fuel line can accommodate this unless you want 53112-90300 on the bag. I also save left over parts from loads of other stuff and the black spacers used for flat screen TV mounts work great. Another on-demand item is the toilet tank feed line that is slightly flexible gray plastic line and runs from the shut-off valve on the lower wall to underneath the toilet or sink.

This is one of the few parts I don’t mind improvising on
 
knuckle47 said:
Looks like 4 slices of heavy duty fuel injection fuel line can accommodate this unless you want 53112-90300 on the bag. I also save left over parts from loads of other stuff and the black spacers used for flat screen TV mounts work great. Another on-demand item is the toilet tank feed line that is slightly flexible gray plastic line and runs from the shut-off valve on the lower wall to underneath the toilet or sink.

This is one of the few parts I don’t mind improvising on
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Great ideas Al. Lowe’s has Nylon spacers in the hardware drawers that work well too.
 
@Jdc1 some of the hardware in those drawers is remarkable… I have used those in the past for other things and they did come from Lowe’s drawers…Hillman to be exact. My only wish….and I know it’s a pain in the butt….keep the drawers sorted and organized. They need a full time inspector to monitor the inventory and put the correct sizes back where they belong. And , you gotta watch for a bag of 5 pieces having only 4 with a hole in the bag
 
knuckle47 said:
@Jdc1 some of the hardware in those drawers is remarkable… I have used those in the past for other things and they did come from Lowe’s drawers…Hillman to be exact. My only wish….and I know it’s a pain in the butt….keep the drawers sorted and organized. They need a full time inspector to monitor the inventory and put the correct sizes back where they belong. And , you gotta watch for a bag of 5 pieces having only 4 with a hole in the bag
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I used those nylon spacers to level up the Tuffy console that I installed in my 40. Didn't like the provided mount, so I drilled new holes in the bottom of the Tuffy and used the captured nuts that the stock plastic console tray used. Moved it back a couple of inches, and then my stock shifter cane didn't hit it.
 
I had found some thing that looked like Rivnuts but for wood. You drill the correct sized hole and the have a razor like screw exterior that bites into the wood. That solved several issues for leveling feet on tables or chairs that needed a bit more than a stick-on felt glide pad
 
Think I've finally figured out my overheating issues, so drove it a bit and then looked at it. Good day
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Which one? The bell housing for a 2F has motor mounts also has so at least they would give you a starting point.

Find a chassis manual and it will have the dimensions.

When I installed my R2.8 with the 2F bell housing and H55F I used the motor mounts at the bell housing. The motor mounts for the R2.8 bolted to the inside of the frame to be tacked then welded once the drive train was back out.
 
POPO AGIE said:
Which one? The bell housing for a 2F has motor mounts also has so at least they would give you a starting point.

Find a chassis manual and it will have the dimensions.

When I installed my R2.8 with the 2F bell housing and H55F I used the motor mounts at the bell housing. The motor mounts for the R2.8 bolted to the inside of the frame to be tacked then welded once the drive train was back out.
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All of them...front and rear. Someone installed a Chevy block and cut out all the original mounts. This is a 1970 model, the original 1F bell housing was bolted inside the frame. The 2F bell has one rear mount on top of the frame and one inside of the frame.
 
SergP said:
All of them...front and rear. Someone installed a Chevy block and cut out all the original mounts. This is a 1970 model, the original 1F bell housing was bolted inside the frame. The 2F bell has one rear mount on top of the frame and one inside of the frame.
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The holes in the frame from where the rivets held the original motor mounts should still be visible. Find some mounts and bolt them to the mounts on the block with isolators and then set down on the frame and the holes should line up.
 
POPO AGIE said:
The holes in the frame from where the rivets held the original motor mounts should still be visible. Find some mounts and bolt them to the mounts on the block with isolators and then set down on the frame and the holes should line up.
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I can’t see any holes. Did someone weld them up, or did FJ55s from the early ’70s not use rivets for the brackets?
 
SergP said:
I can’t see any holes. Did someone weld them up, or did FJ55s from the early ’70s not use rivets for the brackets?
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Have never worked on any other Land Cruiser other then my FJ40 but you would think they would have been riveted. The 155F that was in mine dropped right in and bolted up the the 2F bell housing.
 
If you have the motors mounts for the block and isolators bolt them together and set on the frame. If the mounts on the bell housing line up with the frame weld and or bolt it up and you should be good.
 
POPO AGIE said:
If you have the motors mounts for the block and isolators bolt them together and set on the frame. If the mounts on the bell housing line up with the frame weld and or bolt it up and you should be good.
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Thanks. That’s what I will do
 
I used my 2F bell housing mounts to set the transmission and the motor mounts in my conversion kit lined up with threaded holes that existed on the inside of the frame and put a bolt in each and the weight was supported so I could tack the new motor mounts in. My gear boxes are in the same place as the 4 speed boxes were. I even kept the bell housing mounts and the crossmember so I have a lot of support from the motor to the transmission.

My new motor mounts were made for Toyota isolators and the shop that provided the adapter kit provided me the part numbers for the engine and transmission crossmember isolators.
 
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