Your circuit wizardry is blowing my mind. But, I can't get past it... what is happening in the news in picture #2?Finally soldered up my voltage converter for the new cluster. I swapped out the 50 amp ammeter for an oil pressure gauge then made this circuit to convert the battery voltage (10-18V) to the gauge voltage range (0-6V).
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In Arizona we get much better adhesion than when I lived back East with all the humidity. Thanks for the input though. Did prime but prefer no clearHello :
I'm assuming you first prime-painted your wheels prior to Rustoleum spraying them. Else wise, the paint will likely chip off in random areas within a few years. Also, the Rustoleum paint you used will fade. Most definitely within a few years.
To help make more resilient what you have right now, I suggest top coat spraying your wheels with Duplicolor's Wheel Clear Coat. It comes in Gloss or Matte. The rattlecans of this are fairly inexpensive ($6-7), and I'd use 1.5 to 2 cans per wheel.
For the wagon wheels that had once been on my own FJ40, which are now well used on my '96 4Runner, I did this same process - and love the results, which has lasted 6-years now. The wheels have not at all chipped or faded, and have been regularly used on countless North Georgia dirt & gravel FS roads.
I had primed each wheel with Rustoleum's Automotive Primer (approx 1.5 cans per wheel); Rustoleum's Universal Premium paint (a solid 2 cans per wheel); and then, Duplicolor's Matte Clear Gloss for wheels (definitely 2 to 2.5 cans per wheel - letting properly cure between each coat).
For the paint, I used Rustoleum's Dark Steel with some Rustoleum Black lightly mixed-in simultaneously.. Looks Super-Good on my 3rd generation, OEM Anthracite colored 4Runner.
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