new HPL diff and tcase fluid front to back and greased the zerks pushing out old (different brand) grease. Which was easy and mess free (sarcasm). The lock N lube fittings and a judicious battery powered grease gun for the spider yokes was clutch compared to the manual type. I'm close to 90k on the odo. What's everyone's typical interval for tcase/diff fluid? 30k? More? TIA.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (65 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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bloc
SILVER Star
I have 30k in my spreadsheet and I believe that is the “severe service” schedule. Unless you’re contaminated from water crossings or the like I can’t see needing more often than that. Our diff gears especially are very high quality materials and machining and as a result tend to be easy on the fluids.
Given I don't do water crossings, etc I'll gladly start adding a little more to my interval. Thanks for this. The fluid looked good when I drained it and minimal debris on the magnetic drain plugs.
Just as food for thought, I’ve used both Yakima and Thule and thought the Yakima seemed more robust and less flimsy. The Thule I have has broken both hinges in the past 2 years. I didn’t use the Yakima long enough to break anything but it seemed more well built.
Not to mention the sensor brackets changed somewhere along the way. Dirty ones in my pics are original from 2008.
Well - that is one reason I went with new and not FB market place. Here’s hoping the Thule is still a good product because it is being installed on Friday!
We still use the hell out of it! Still holds up to being fully loaded and rolling 80+ down the highway!
Found a nearly identical friend!
I've seen this silver 200 parked here on my way home several times and finally stopped to take a picture.
I've seen this silver 200 parked here on my way home several times and finally stopped to take a picture.
Replaced the poly bushings that the SPC UCA came with. Pressed in the new style xaxis. No more clunky driver's side
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Pads and rotors all around. The rear pads were getting pretty low, and looked like the original rear rotors. The dealership I bought it from was very proud to tell me they put pads and rotors up front to "pass safety" and they wouldn't even charge me for it. I ran the part number's, Auto Part International, AKA the cheapest s*** they could get locally. They used anti-seize instead of caliper grease (which does occasionally have it's merits, but not here) and installed the pad separators upside down, one was already missing and the other half way worn through from the rotor. Didn't clean any corrosion off the hubs or anything, typical dealership monkey work.
Anyways, new Raybestos Element3's with coated rotors on all four corners. I know there's fancier better aftermarket options, but these are my go to for "it just works" brakes. I run them on a lot of my rigs.
But let's get to the good stuff. Damn these Rock Warriors look good!
Anyways, new Raybestos Element3's with coated rotors on all four corners. I know there's fancier better aftermarket options, but these are my go to for "it just works" brakes. I run them on a lot of my rigs.
But let's get to the good stuff. Damn these Rock Warriors look good!
Drove it 2400 miles. Made a loop from NW Arkansas out to Taos, Durango, Silverton, Ouray, then up to Denver for a few days before heading back home.
Met 2 great Rising Sun Members to pick up our tent and SPC UCA's..
Stopped at Slee for new Formed step sliders, and hung with one of my best friends who bought my old built 100 series.
Met 2 great Rising Sun Members to pick up our tent and SPC UCA's..
Stopped at Slee for new Formed step sliders, and hung with one of my best friends who bought my old built 100 series.
Interesting how they changed the adjustment slot. In this orientation, it also changes the motion ratio a bit. Maybe Toyota chasing the last bits of refinement.
Just got my uppers out today and the bushings are smoked (definitely the right technical term per @Boston Mangler ) with tears all the way through. The eyelet position is well displaced from center too, which surely affects alignment.
Most people seem to change the rear lower trailing arms and while those can need attention too, it's the uppers that take the beating but they're harder to see.
PSA: I'll echo Boston's PSA, anyone near 200k miles, especially with hard offroad use and/or towing, highly recommend refreshing the rear upper links.
bloc
SILVER Star
Are you on the original panhard rod? If so how do those bushings look?
Yes. Mine was actually in great shape and the bushings had little to no signs of wear.
@Boston Mangler had a different experience with his.
I think in an aggressively lifted rig, that would be a different story as sagitta is such it is always pushing the vehicle side to side with every bump without a panhard correction bracket.
Yes, mine was quite odd. One end of mine was perfectly in tact and one end was completely smoked (proper term) and torn in half
Finally scored me a set of Tundra BBS wheels. I've had three different sets of these lined up, but sellers flaked out.
Looks fantastic. I can’t tell in the pics but if you got the matte finish ones I’ve found the chemical guys matte finish sealant works really well at keeping them looking clean and not faded/chalky.
Changed the oil for my 150K check point.
Also went ahead and did the front diff. (way overdue)
I put the SUV on one ramp on pass side to help drain the fluid. I forgot to open the fill plug first so the tire and backing paper I used underneath me took some nice splashes as it gasped for air.
Then for extra stupidity points, I didn't set it back level. Just ran a funnel hose down to the the fill plug and poured the fluid right in. First biottle went in no issues. Second bottle, not so much. Didn't hear the big puddle that was forming as I was filling and probably lost about a third or more of the Royal Purple gear oil. Yeah, that was fun to clean up. Had to drive it low for about 20 miles to get to another store that still had the same fluid.
Now to locate some unicorn tears for the center diff. Dealer here said $120 a qt and that they had never seen a bottle in their inventory for who knows how long.
Also went ahead and did the front diff. (way overdue)
I put the SUV on one ramp on pass side to help drain the fluid. I forgot to open the fill plug first so the tire and backing paper I used underneath me took some nice splashes as it gasped for air.
Then for extra stupidity points, I didn't set it back level. Just ran a funnel hose down to the the fill plug and poured the fluid right in. First biottle went in no issues. Second bottle, not so much. Didn't hear the big puddle that was forming as I was filling and probably lost about a third or more of the Royal Purple gear oil. Yeah, that was fun to clean up. Had to drive it low for about 20 miles to get to another store that still had the same fluid.
Now to locate some unicorn tears for the center diff. Dealer here said $120 a qt and that they had never seen a bottle in their inventory for who knows how long.
