You plan on making those for sale for future?
What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (21 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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bloc
SILVER Star
I only have access to the US market diagrams, and we have white/black to the rear doors. In that case white is positive though.
I cut out the holes today and installed everything. I chooses from blue/white at the left and black/yellow at the right door the yellow and blue for beeing positive. So far both sides giving nice sound.
Slow Paddler
SILVER Star
The LC200 is my only (running) vehicle, too. But I haven't worked in almost 15 years, so that 650 miles/month is me just wandering around. And most of that has been in the past two years since I got the new travel trailer. The first two years, I averaged under 500 miles/month.
To paraphrase Jerry Reed, "I've got nowhere to go and a long time to get there."
Sold the RTT and went with a new rhino-rack (series 6) and light bar. I have to say, I am extremely impressed with both. The rhino rack pioneer 6 is an amazing upgrade to the older rhino rack in terms of aerodynamics. Minimal wind noise. What really impressed was the DECREASE in wind noise after installing the light bar ahead of the rhino rack. I'm complexly sold on this combo. The ability to wire inside the aluminum extrusion on rhino rack was very clean and the light output on the triple-r is amazing. My roof rack is now easily removable with a single duetsch plug and a few easily accessible nuts.
I found that reducing the number of crossbars on my Prinsu rack to five noticeably reduced the wind noise at highway speeds.
Looks nice, but I have a pet-peeve: the lightbar mounting brackets & bolts are protruding above the surface of the rack, so the rack is no longer a fully level surface. These raised points would cause pressure points for large cardboard boxes, sheets of plywood, etc. (Might not be an issue in your use.)
I'd flip the mounting brackets around so that they mount on the bottom of the rack, rather than the top. The rubber channel fill on the bottom of the rack can be trimmed to allow the hardware to fit.
Good point. I tried them both ways and they looked better to me top mounted. Probably because I'm shorter than the top of the rack and it's out of sight. I can definitely see the argument for the flat surface. The plastic slot channel fill is new for RR. I really like it. I'm probably going to order a bunch of it and fill all the unused channels to keep dirt and debris out. Plus it looks clean.
I installed the front 3 plates and frames for the E&E skid plate system. I stripped and sheered off 2 bolts that connect the transfer case frame to the transfer case frame support, so I was unable to install that skid plate. The E&E skid plate system comes with extra key locking inserts and bolts so this weekend when I have time I'll try to use vice grips to remove the sheered bolts and install the inserts so I can complete the job.
prharper
GOLD Star
@dudemancool1904 - I filed the claim online with Tire Rack. Sent them a copy of the invoice to replace the damaged tire and they already had the receipts of my new and old tire purchases. No pics required of the damaged tire.
Got the check in the mail today to cover the cost of the new tire. Thanks for pointing this out!
Nice! Glad it worked out! I’ve used it in the past and they make it so painless. Caught a drill bit in a PS4S, got it replaced locally and they covered every single cent.
2HundyJTex
SILVER Star
Does this interfere with the fin?
No. It clears with about a 1/2” above it.
Foamed the rear and front AC evaporators to maintain cleanliness and good drainage.
Rear by pumping in with the foam bottle supplied hose and a modified rubber plug pushed over the hose to get a seal via the rear AC drain (behind driver side rear wheel). Real easy.
Front by dropping the HVAC fan involving removing the passenger side door sill, dash knee padding, lower panel, airbag panel (battery disconnected, lift little yellow clip in the connector and it comes right out), glove box and some clearance sensor/control unit boxes (maybe on earlier pre 16 LC’s this is not required). More involved, yet worked great to manoeuvre the foam hose into the AC evaporator.
Initially did try via the top removing the cabin filter and push the hose through the fan however could not figure out the hose actually entered towards the evaporator or was just looping inside the fan housing. Certainly did not want to foam the fan unit itself with significant potential damaging the motor. So went the longer way as described above.
This all at 4 years and 38k on the vehicle. Will look at repeating every 4 to 5 years to keep things clean and open.
Rear by pumping in with the foam bottle supplied hose and a modified rubber plug pushed over the hose to get a seal via the rear AC drain (behind driver side rear wheel). Real easy.
Front by dropping the HVAC fan involving removing the passenger side door sill, dash knee padding, lower panel, airbag panel (battery disconnected, lift little yellow clip in the connector and it comes right out), glove box and some clearance sensor/control unit boxes (maybe on earlier pre 16 LC’s this is not required). More involved, yet worked great to manoeuvre the foam hose into the AC evaporator.
Initially did try via the top removing the cabin filter and push the hose through the fan however could not figure out the hose actually entered towards the evaporator or was just looping inside the fan housing. Certainly did not want to foam the fan unit itself with significant potential damaging the motor. So went the longer way as described above.
This all at 4 years and 38k on the vehicle. Will look at repeating every 4 to 5 years to keep things clean and open.
Last edited:
2HundyJTex
SILVER Star
Never considered doing this. What foam did you use?
I’m daft and sInpUL. Can you do a write up with pics?
Hey all, great source of info here thx.
I recently picked up this 09 with 105k mi. Ive driven toyotas since 86 and still have my 04 dbl cab Tundra with 250kmi.
So far on the LC ive put on Cooper stronghold 275/70/17 great so far. I dont really want spacers but think it would look better with one inch more to flush with the fenders. I know Bora does a 1" and I don't mind the stock wheels. I havnt found an 18 inch wheel with around a 35-40mm offset?
Ive also done the oem 1inch coilover spacer .
The cupholder is an upgrade.
The between seat and center console trays are okay, actually pretty useful.
It is a velvety finish , so it holds lint a bit .
The cool box tray is great! And creates a stealthy storage space below for your edc kit..
I wasnt sure about removing running boards, but the ergo was bad. Step over them getting in and out, so I took them off. It looks good. Prob wont get sliders, though I realize the exposer to more rock chips and rocker panel damage.
This week, I'll swap the h11 halogen lows to a Phillips h9 and the 9005 highs to the 9011 buld.
I ordered new Phillips 9006 for the fogs, but I was wondering about switching them to a 9012. Anybody with an 08-11 do this in the fogs?
Requires minor trimming to tabs as with the other bulb swaps.
Any comments or suggestions welcome
I recently picked up this 09 with 105k mi. Ive driven toyotas since 86 and still have my 04 dbl cab Tundra with 250kmi.
So far on the LC ive put on Cooper stronghold 275/70/17 great so far. I dont really want spacers but think it would look better with one inch more to flush with the fenders. I know Bora does a 1" and I don't mind the stock wheels. I havnt found an 18 inch wheel with around a 35-40mm offset?
Ive also done the oem 1inch coilover spacer .
The cupholder is an upgrade.
The between seat and center console trays are okay, actually pretty useful.
It is a velvety finish , so it holds lint a bit .
The cool box tray is great! And creates a stealthy storage space below for your edc kit..
I wasnt sure about removing running boards, but the ergo was bad. Step over them getting in and out, so I took them off. It looks good. Prob wont get sliders, though I realize the exposer to more rock chips and rocker panel damage.
This week, I'll swap the h11 halogen lows to a Phillips h9 and the 9005 highs to the 9011 buld.
I ordered new Phillips 9006 for the fogs, but I was wondering about switching them to a 9012. Anybody with an 08-11 do this in the fogs?
Requires minor trimming to tabs as with the other bulb swaps.
Any comments or suggestions welcome
Im also interested in seat covers and am leaning towards the escape gear.
And a sleeping/ storage platform in half width. Not necessarily with drawers more of platform with underneath storage. I want to be able to have it set up with one middle row seat still up in the seated position and easily folded back for the other middle row to go up when needed.
This system from Pacific adventure works seems doable and very configurable. The single is 30" width, but they are coming out with a 25" this spring.https://pacificadventureworks.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAjeW6BhBAEiwAdKltMvR7ojwFgEH1KDpSH0cEFZR7DhGB19JAYXjSQRXJ5EWW8h1sZHK1MxoCYEgQAvD_BwE
And a sleeping/ storage platform in half width. Not necessarily with drawers more of platform with underneath storage. I want to be able to have it set up with one middle row seat still up in the seated position and easily folded back for the other middle row to go up when needed.
This system from Pacific adventure works seems doable and very configurable. The single is 30" width, but they are coming out with a 25" this spring.https://pacificadventureworks.com/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAjeW6BhBAEiwAdKltMvR7ojwFgEH1KDpSH0cEFZR7DhGB19JAYXjSQRXJ5EWW8h1sZHK1MxoCYEgQAvD_BwE
