What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (27 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

IS IT?
the way shown allows you to fill the spare up with air WITHOUT dropping it onto the ground! that little yellow "low pressure" lamp gets pretty annoying after a while.


So does one of these

IMG_2264.jpeg


And the cosmetic side of the wheel isn’t exposed to damage from road use or when you drop the spare on the ground.

Also the anchor on the chain that actually lifts the wheel isn’t designed to fit into the lug side face. I’d bet damage is being done there too.

Lastly, you can fill your spare to the limit listed on the tire to buy more time before it crosses the threshold of needing filled. If you need to install it, just lower the pressure to whatever you run on the road before driving away.
 
So does one of these

View attachment 3585778

And the cosmetic side of the wheel isn’t exposed to damage from road use or when you drop the spare on the ground.

Also the anchor on the chain that actually lifts the wheel isn’t designed to fit into the lug side face. I’d bet damage is being done there too.

Lastly, you can fill your spare to the limit listed on the tire to buy more time before it crosses the threshold of needing filled. If you need to install it, just lower the pressure to whatever you run on the road before driving away.
Yep. Just used one of those on Thursday on my installed spare to get rid of the TPMS light before heading out on a weekend road trip. I can vouch for being able to air up spare while it's installed pretty side up.
 
Pilot holes to make it easier to cut the square
What are those round things? Magnets?
View attachment 3585571
@Sinister is spot on. Used the holes to confirm hitch receiver location as well as to fit the saw blade. Tiny cuts protruding from holes in the picture were used to mark the inside of the hitch receiver before accounting for ~3/8” gap added all the way around. Jinxed myself with my “love tap” comment and someone got me good in a parking lot today.

IMG_7990.jpeg


IMG_7989.jpeg
 
@Sinister is spot on. Used the holes to confirm hitch receiver location as well as to fit the saw blade. Tiny cuts protruding from holes in the picture were used to mark the inside of the hitch receiver before accounting for ~3/8” gap added all the way around. Jinxed myself with my “love tap” comment and someone got me good in a parking lot today.

View attachment 3585896

View attachment 3585897
Go out to a trail and put one on the other side..

Kinda what the cruiser is meant to do.
 
lol you should see my rear bumper
 
Also, the surround ring for the parking sensor isn’t expensive. A bit of a PITA to get in there and install it though.
 
Installed the Beat Sonic Wireless Carplay module in my 2019. Works great, and loads fast. Additionally, ran a usb cable up to the drivers a pillar and used some ram mounts to add a mag safe mount and charger. Finally, bought a dongar 10 pin mirror tap type b and made a slight modification to change the harness to ground to the right cables to add a usb at the mirror for a garmin mini dash cam.
 
Installed the Kammok 7’ Crosswing Awning.
I’m just test fitting it now so can’t give any real world usage commentary now, but it seems to be a solid piece of work.
It takes half an hour to install it, by myself, to the factory cross-bars and extends and retracts as advertised, in about 3 seconds.

I was trying to decide between the Roofnest Litewing and this one and ultimately decided I didn't need 270 degrees.
And I liked that the Crosswing comes with a method to attach it to factory crossbars.

Pics with and without the poles (it came with poles for if the weather gets bad):

IMG_0275b.jpg


IMG_0276b.jpg


IMG_0277b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Go out to a trail and put one on the other side..

Kinda what the cruiser is meant to do.
Only complaint here is an aftermarket rear bumper is in the works and there are some pretty gnarly cracks going all the way up to the tail light that would not be replaced unless by a Dobinsons rear bumper. Unfortunately the Dobinsons is not my forté so I will likely be buying a whole new bumper skin with an aftermarket bumper and will cut it up prior to paint so the bottom cut edge can be painted as well. May even try to round that cut bottom edge before paint to alleviate the aesthetic need for some sort of edge trim and pray my gap is large enough that I don’t end up with cracks in the new bumper skin from contact with an aftermarket bumper. What size gap would you all recommend between the bumper skin and aftermarket bumper so I can determine if the edge trim will be a necessity?

IMG_8010.jpeg
 
Installed the Kammok 7’ Crosswing Awning.
I’m just test fitting it now so can’t give any real world usage commentary now, but it seems to be a solid piece of work.
It takes half an hour to install it, by myself, to the factory cross-bars and extends and retracts as advertised, in about 3 seconds.

I was trying to decide between the Roofnest Litewing and this one and ultimately decided I didn't need 270 degrees.
And I liked that the Crosswing comes with a method to attach it to factory crossbars.

Pics with and without the poles (it came with poles for if the weather gets bad):

View attachment 3586282

View attachment 3586283

View attachment 3586284

Nice! I've been eyeing that one as ease of use is so important to actually using these things.

Did you buy the 2 supports separately or do they come with the kit?

I've heard they're working on a room that can be tied into the awning a la Arb but I don't think there's been any movement on that?
 
Only complaint here is an aftermarket rear bumper is in the works and there are some pretty gnarly cracks going all the way up to the tail light that would not be replaced unless by a Dobinsons rear bumper. Unfortunately the Dobinsons is not my forté so I will likely be buying a whole new bumper skin with an aftermarket bumper and will cut it up prior to paint so the bottom cut edge can be painted as well. May even try to round that cut bottom edge before paint to alleviate the aesthetic need for some sort of edge trim and pray my gap is large enough that I don’t end up with cracks in the new bumper skin from contact with an aftermarket bumper. What size gap would you all recommend between the bumper skin and aftermarket bumper so I can determine if the edge trim will be a necessity?

View attachment 3586326
Is that just cracks in the paint? The bumper is pretty flexible, hard to imagine it cracked like that.
 
Is that just cracks in the paint? The bumper is pretty flexible, hard to imagine it cracked like that.
Agreed, but the cracks were not present before. Main point of impact also appeared to be down by the sensor that was torn up and pushed in, but I’m thinking possibly the bumper may have indented and rebounded back out up on the body line where all those cracks are located. After wiping the area down and looking a bit closer, the only real substantial crack that I believe would show through paint is one that leads down to the reflector. Tempting to check insurance and see what I could get towards a new bumper skin and aftermarket bumper, but I would expect them to try and simply paint it. In the meantime, sensor surround is on the way.

IMG_8016.jpeg
 
LX570, 2018. Driving in town yesterday. Notice the rear driver side window was open. Went to close it and it would not go up. Fiddled with the window switch next to the steering wheel, and eventually it did go up.

then about 2 hours later, was driving down the highway at highway speed, stepped on the brakes, and...poof the rear driver side window rolled down all the way. I fiddled with the window switch and this time it would not go back up. Had to get off the highway about ten minutes later, open the rear door, and exercise the window switch on the door. THAT would work. So i put it up and down a few times, and it has been ok since then.


WTF is going on? Anyone ever see this? is there some sort of safety switch being activated (like the ones to keep a childs head from getting stuck in the window as it goes up) that is being activated when i tap the brakes?
 
LX570, 2018. Driving in town yesterday. Notice the rear driver side window was open. Went to close it and it would not go up. Fiddled with the window switch next to the steering wheel, and eventually it did go up.

then about 2 hours later, was driving down the highway at highway speed, stepped on the brakes, and...poof the rear driver side window rolled down all the way. I fiddled with the window switch and this time it would not go back up. Had to get off the highway about ten minutes later, open the rear door, and exercise the window switch on the door. THAT would work. So i put it up and down a few times, and it has been ok since then.


WTF is going on? Anyone ever see this? is there some sort of safety switch being activated (like the ones to keep a childs head from getting stuck in the window as it goes up) that is being activated when i tap the brakes?
Pull the plastic trim at the bottom of the front door sills to check for water or evidence of it around the wiring harness
 
So does one of these

View attachment 3585778

And the cosmetic side of the wheel isn’t exposed to damage from road use or when you drop the spare on the ground.

Also the anchor on the chain that actually lifts the wheel isn’t designed to fit into the lug side face. I’d bet damage is being done there too.

Lastly, you can fill your spare to the limit listed on the tire to buy more time before it crosses the threshold of needing filled. If you need to install it, just lower the pressure to whatever you run on the road before driving away.
do you not screw a tire stem cap onto the spare wheel? you would need to reach in and unscrew the cap to use that.
 
do you not screw a tire stem cap onto the spare wheel? you would need to reach in and unscrew the cap to use that.
I definitely have valve stem caps on mine, otherwise gravel and dirt will end up in the valve which will kill it, quickly.

From the bottom just reach through the spokes and unscrew it.
 
I definitely have valve stem caps on mine, otherwise gravel and dirt will end up in the valve which will kill it, quickly.

From the bottom just reach through the spokes and unscrew it.
i am gonna crawl under there tomorrow and see what it looks like. I already have one of those push/pull inflators somewhere....
 
i am gonna crawl under there tomorrow and see what it looks like. I already have one of those push/pull inflators somewhere....
They also make a short whip you can screw on to the valve stem to extend it for easy access.
 
LX570, 2018. Driving in town yesterday. Notice the rear driver side window was open. Went to close it and it would not go up. Fiddled with the window switch next to the steering wheel, and eventually it did go up.

then about 2 hours later, was driving down the highway at highway speed, stepped on the brakes, and...poof the rear driver side window rolled down all the way. I fiddled with the window switch and this time it would not go back up. Had to get off the highway about ten minutes later, open the rear door, and exercise the window switch on the door. THAT would work. So i put it up and down a few times, and it has been ok since then.


WTF is going on? Anyone ever see this? is there some sort of safety switch being activated (like the ones to keep a childs head from getting stuck in the window as it goes up) that is being activated when i tap the brakes?
To eliminate the issue being with the switch on the rear door, if you can remove the bezel on the door panel containing the window switch and swap the switch itself with the passenger side, this should help narrow down the issue. Curious if your issue will follow the window switch or advertently indicate the problem is with either the master switches and/or wiring leading to that driver side rear door panel.
 
i am gonna crawl under there tomorrow and see what it looks like. I already have one of those push/pull inflators somewhere....
With the stock 2013 wheels it is pretty easy to reach through the gap and unscrew the valve cap on the spare without having to lower it. When I raise the spare, I make sure the valve stem is close to the rear of the truck and that way I can check the pressure and top off the air without lowering.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom