What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (57 Viewers)

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I wasn’t familiar with these so I looked them up. They make my ARB deflator thingy look extra hella lame.

Ugh, just take my wallet at this point.
For Xmas I got some rims that had two valve stem holes. I was ordering by price and didn’t even notice. True Kismet - tpms in one position, apex deflators in the other.
Airing down in about a minute with no tools is just so amazing.
 
Apex valves work with Toyota TPMS (without to valve stem holes?, right?
 
Apex valves work with Toyota TPMS (without to valve stem holes?, right?
They have a tpms adapter you can buy. The tpms get bolted to the deflator inside the rim. The Tpms valve stem gets cutoff except for a small amount to clamp too. Another way is to strap the Tpms sensor inside the rim to the wheel barrel. A third way is to put the Tpms sensors in a pvc tube, cap it, install a valve on it, and pump it to 35 psi.

The best way is a rim with multiple valve stem holes built in- see several rims in the Alphaequipt lineup.
 
I had them use the TPMS adapters for mine—dual valve stems would be awesome, though I’m personally not in love with any of the Alpha wheels. The adapters work best for me since I’ll be sticking with the OEM wheels until I pull the trigger on some TE37s

I also did a quick test this morning airing down from 41 to 18 psi on my spare—not sure if the weight of the vehicle would help cut a few seconds off, but even still it was just under 20 seconds which is insane.

 
They have a tpms adapter you can buy. The tpms get bolted to the deflator inside the rim. The Tpms valve stem gets cutoff except for a small amount to clamp too. Another way is to strap the Tpms sensor inside the rim to the wheel barrel. A third way is to put the Tpms sensors in a pvc tube, cap it, install a valve on it, and pump it to 35 psi.

The best way is a rim with multiple valve stem holes built in- see several rims in the Alphaequipt lineup.

I know the official answer to this question, especially for an alloy rim, but what about drilling a second hole? I know quality wheels would have an engineered stress model done that would account for the holes, however many there were. Is there a physical load test of some kind that is done? Maybe just for prototypes? One one hand, the engineer in me says and analysis would need to be done but I'm also having a hard time seeing one additional hole for a second valve stem being a big deal if located in the same metal thinness part of the wheel, 180 degrees opposite. I'm sure someone has done it.
 
Got around to installing my Ironman front bumper. Shipping from Ironman was crazy fast and came incredibly well packed... I spent a solid hour just unpacking the thing. Install instructions are crap but thanks to @tbisaacs excellent install thread it was a piece of cake. I also did not install a winch or any offroad lights at this time. I have ordered a set of SuperNova Infinite 8.5's but they ship out of AUS so not sure how long those will take to arrive. I am also going to retrofit my Diode Dynamics Amber SS3's into the fog light positions. I've ordered their 4" round face plate and I expect it will take some work with the angle grinder and some massaging of the fog light mounts to get those tucked away nice and flush so I have yet to install the lower wing plates or skids until that is all wrapped up.

I have had issues with previous bumper contacting the body work and breaking things so I wanted a solid gap between body panels and bumper. My method was to rough cut the bumper, then I used my crude spacer and pen to just slide along the top of the bumper and make my cut line. Trimmed the panels with my Dremel multimax while everything was installed, just taped everything up so I didn't scratch things. It appears a little wavy because of the contour lines of the bumper and plastics but its damn near perfectly flat/flush with the top of the bumper. This made the trimming super easy and quick. Everyone seems to hate the included pinch weld but I like the minimalist look of it and don't mind the gap.

Have a few items to wrap up like painting the silver panels in front of the wheel wells black so you don't see them poking through behind the bumper and I am still torn on whether or not I want to reinstall the parking sensors. I turned them off the day I got the truck and have not turned them back on, nor will I ever do so. Still need to relocate the camera and then it should be wrapped up and ready just in time to start my next project....

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I know the official answer to this question, especially for an alloy rim, but what about drilling a second hole? I know quality wheels would have an engineered stress model done that would account for the holes, however many there were. Is there a physical load test of some kind that is done? Maybe just for prototypes? One one hand, the engineer in me says and analysis would need to be done but I'm also having a hard time seeing one additional hole for a second valve stem being a big deal if located in the same metal thinness part of the wheel, 180 degrees opposite. I'm sure someone has done it.
Drilling is fine too. There is another dump valve that you can get if you drill custom with an even larger diameter. See powertank monster valve tire deflator. . .
 
Just did a front AHC sensor lift and can't really see much difference. I wish I had measured.

I'd like a little more full-time lift just for looks. I know it's pointless, and I clear my 35's just fine, but I like the truck to look mean when I look back at it in my parking spot. Maybe I can program the AHC to go into Hi whenever I put the truck in park. :rofl:

I'm still not getting warm and fuzzies from the 200 after 10 months of ownership. I think the soccer mom look is the root of the problem.
 
Got 15.5 inches of ground clearance!

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Just did a front AHC sensor lift and can't really see much difference. I wish I had measured.

I'd like a little more full-time lift just for looks. I know it's pointless, and I clear my 35's just fine, but I like the truck to look mean when I look back at it in my parking spot. Maybe I can program the AHC to go into Hi whenever I put the truck in park. :rofl:

I'm still not getting warm and fuzzies from the 200 after 10 months of ownership. I think the soccer mom look is the root of the problem.


I definitely cannot relate to the second to last sentence. I’ve had mine 3 weeks and it’s been light years ahead of all but 1 vehicle I’ve owned.. and that’s a lot
 
Just did a front AHC sensor lift and can't really see much difference. I wish I had measured.

I'd like a little more full-time lift just for looks. I know it's pointless, and I clear my 35's just fine, but I like the truck to look mean when I look back at it in my parking spot. Maybe I can program the AHC to go into Hi whenever I put the truck in park. :rofl:

I'm still not getting warm and fuzzies from the 200 after 10 months of ownership. I think the soccer mom look is the root of the problem.
I still get warm and fuzzies after 2.5 years of ownership ever time I look at it. And putting general grabber atx tires on it last fall made me get even more warm and fuzziness.
 
I guess old clunkers are more of my thing. The wife loves it though!
 
Curious to see what you come with to mount the Diode Dynamics lights. I've got a set of baja squadrons that I haven't mounted yet.

I think it will be pretty straight forward. The SS3's are totally modular, I've ordered their 4" round flat face plate to replace my angled face plate and another mounting bracket that looks like it should be a pretty easy mod to fit into the Ironman bumper. I really love the SS3's and the quality/color of the light and cut off is amazing in heavy snow and rain so I'm will to get a little creative to keep them around.

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