What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (22 Viewers)

Joined
May 9, 2020
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86
Location
Atlanta, GA
Removed the front mud flaps today to address the rubbing post-spacers but may mount them back and trim as needed after the lift/UCAs are on.

Also installed the Trail Tailor recovery points. Got them 'gutentight' but does anyone have proper torque specs for these bolts?
IMG_20201121_135522_925.jpg
 

Artie

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Jun 30, 2020
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146
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North Georgia USA
Pulled the intake and spark plugs off in the middle of the Ozark National Forest after my 200 hydrolocked. Thanks to @DirtDawg @atnolan94 and @aaronrules i was back on the trail the next morning!!!

‘Somehow it hydrolocked’? Dude, you literally dove headfirst into that thing lol awesome job for some night time mechanic work by headlamp? That part is impressive. What did you do for intake gaskets while out there?
 

ga12r1

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Nov 23, 2016
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Valdosta, Ga
‘Somehow it hydrolocked’? Dude, you literally dove headfirst into that thing lol awesome job for some night time mechanic work by headlamp? That part is impressive. What did you do for intake gaskets while out there?
The gaskets were ok to reuse. If I would have been at home I would have replaced them but they passed inspection ;)
 
Joined
May 19, 2019
Messages
105
Location
Boston
Curious why you say you can’t run 1” spacers. What are you seeing that would not allow a 1” as opposed to 1.25”? Not arguing. Just wondering, since I’ve run .75”

What’s going on there?
Figured I’d answer this for him... the 2013-2015 OEM wheels are not hollowed out at the hub contact point in the same way that the 2011 wheels are. So, with his wheels he needs to have at least a 1.25” spacer so the stud and lugnut are “buried” deep enough into the spacer so that they won’t make contact with the wheel. This is the only way to ensure that the back of the wheel and the hub are making full clean contact. Otherwise, the whelll will be sitting up against the studs which is very dangerous.
 

Markuson

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Jun 15, 2008
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San Diego via all over-
 
 
Figured I’d answer this for him... the 2013-2015 OEM wheels are not hollowed out at the hub contact point in the same way that the 2011 wheels are. So, with his wheels he needs to have at least a 1.25” spacer so the stud and lugnut are “buried” deep enough into the spacer so that they won’t make contact with the wheel. This is the only way to ensure that the back of the wheel and the hub are making full clean contact. Otherwise, the whelll will be sitting up against the studs which is very dangerous.
Ya, Rock Warriors have voids.
I had forgotten about that when i used .75”
 
Joined
Sep 27, 2020
Messages
51
Location
The Woodlands, TX
First oil change on the new-to-me LX and found that no fewer than half the skidplate other lower panel bolts were missing from the underside of the vehicle. Including, one of the two oil drain plug cover bolts. The vehicle was at a local dealership about 6 weeks ago to get caught up on service I couldn't verify had been done prior to purchase, and no mention of that. When I contacted the dealership to price out those bolts from them, I was quoted $6.70 per bolt. Ace Hardware, here I come.
 
Joined
Aug 11, 2020
Messages
55
Location
East Coast
I REALLY wanted to retain the factory rack but suffered from some legit vibration, from items ranging from a basket to surfboards. I up-armored to three factory cross-bars and still, it persisted. I've had good luck in the past with the Thule Aero Bars and can confirm, they work great for this application as well. Little fiddling to dial in noise and it's great to have the t-groove channel for an awning at the beach and the rigidity for a fully loaded ski box.
 
Joined
Sep 28, 2018
Messages
421
Location
Atlanta
Figured I’d answer this for him... the 2013-2015 OEM wheels are not hollowed out at the hub contact point in the same way that the 2011 wheels are. So, with his wheels he needs to have at least a 1.25” spacer so the stud and lugnut are “buried” deep enough into the spacer so that they won’t make contact with the wheel. This is the only way to ensure that the back of the wheel and the hub are making full clean contact. Otherwise, the whelll will be sitting up against the studs which is very dangerous.
1” spacers work in the front. The studs are shorter. I’m running 1” Bora front and 1.25” Spidertrak rear.
 

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