What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (14 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

My comments weren't really directed at you, more general to the forum. You've a good handle on the issue, many don't and grease guns vary in amount they discharge.

Toyota FSM once said to pump until grease passes seals, now they've gone with safer just "until extension begins".

I've done so many that took near 1/2 or more of a standard tube of grease before any extension. These were obviously not properly maintained over the years/miles, which is all to common.

Good points

I just don’t think that much grease needs to be in there. It seems that as long as it can adequately coat the sliding surfaces of the splines it is doing its job.

But then toyota probably understands this system better than I do...
 
• Installed BudBuilt Step Sliders* (Following Preventive Application of Rustoleum Rust Reformer and Fluid Film to Frame Rails and KDSS Valve Area and Professionally Applied Epoxy Primer/Color-Matched Automotive Paint/Clear Coat to Sliders,

• Removed Front & Rear Mud Flaps (Replaced Rears w/The Waste Basket Mod),

• Installed SmartTap Flasher Relay,

• 55K mi Oil Change w/AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-20 & AMSOIL 15K Filter — still loving the Jowett Performance Oil Filter setup — Used Motivx Tools “Advanced Engine Oil Funnel System” (it’s a funnel, but it’s a cool funnel),

• I ordered ARB Recovery Points, but they’re nationally on back order. I’m also waiting on a fifth Rock Warrior to replace the spare...

Tomorrow it goes in for paint correction and Opti-Coat Pro+ (it was treated with Opti-Coat Pro in March 2015 — its still going strong and is warranteed for 5 years, but it’s predominantly parked outside and between the sun and salt air my anal retentiveness won’t allow me to wait that long for a new application)...

*I intend to have the tread plates shot with Line-X as a traction aide but they wanted to wait a full 60 days of cure time on the paint so that the wire tape doesn’t cause any damage to the finish...
 
Line-x tread plates?

Do you mean similar to Maxtrax?
 
No, I mean like shoot a polyurea coating (or whatever is in the Line-X bedliner special sauce, along with extra aggregate) on the fill plates that create the step portion of the rock slider (so those who require steps for ingress and egress don’t slip).
 
No, I mean like shoot a polyurea coating (or whatever is in the Line-X bedliner special sauce, along with extra aggregate) on the fill plates that create the step portion of the rock slider (so those who require steps for ingress and egress don’t slip).

Ohhhh. :) I was gonna say...if on treads, it’ll be gone with the first bit of wheel spin. :)
 
My Velcro loop interior idea is beginning to take shape...

upload_2018-11-9_12-59-48.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Now THAT’S a great idea! You can stick anything anywhere, love it!

:) That’s the plan...

Will be adding a series of short, black, self tapping screws, since even pre-heated, industrial, rubberized Velcro sticky can begin to release at edges. I’ve Tested my screw idea though and it works. :meh::hillbilly:
 
That's awesome. Looks pretty good to boot and the surfaces should take abuse/wear pretty well.

Instead of screws, have you considered rivets? I've developed huge thing for rivets. Effective, easy, lightweight. They actually come out very easily too by drilling and can be replaced without issue.
 
That's awesome. Looks pretty good to boot and the surfaces should take abuse/wear pretty well.

Instead of screws, have you considered rivets? I've developed huge thing for rivets. Effective, easy, lightweight. They actually come out very easily too by drilling and can be replaced without issue.

Ya, my rear quarter panel plastic looked like crap anyway...with scratches and deep scrapes. This honestly makes it look like a new, upgraded panel. Lots of practical possibilities. :idea:
 
Last edited:
Just deleted one of my useless third-row-seat release levers, and made great use of the spot. Even gives easy access if I need to deal with wires short of quarter panel removal...since the lever cover can pop out. :hillbilly:

upload_2018-11-9_19-25-4.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I'm stealing this idea for sure. So simple.

Are you just prepping the panel and using the adhesive on the velcro?

I discovered it helps a ton to heat gun the sticky backing right before applying. If it sets, it really sticks. But...I may end up spacing small, self-taping screws along the edges as this will prevent peeling. Temperature changes are tough on adhesives. I think the small black screws work thougg so I’m going all in.

I found some great Velcro Hook backer molles which will distribute the “pull” across many anchor screws, so I’m pretty confident at this point.

I used 6” wide rolls and the roll is 25 yards. Not cheap, but good stuff.

I’ll post more as it progresses.

These are my backup plan...
upload_2018-11-9_21-37-16.jpeg
 
I added the trailer wiring connection that should have been done at the port. I also added Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 285/70R/18s on the factory wheels. More coming...:D
 
That's awesome. Looks pretty good to boot and the surfaces should take abuse/wear pretty well.

Instead of screws, have you considered rivets? I've developed huge thing for rivets. Effective, easy, lightweight. They actually come out very easily too by drilling and can be replaced without issue.

That’s a good idea I hadn’t thought of.
Could maybe switch to that at some point and just replace the screws. I’ll stick with screws for now as I may eventually redo a couple small sections I installed before figuring out the best method early on.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom