What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (85 Viewers)

[mrkdwrds]

Mudflaps deleted and running boards removed. Pictured with AHC set to high to check out clearance. Still need to trim the front fender trim where there is a clip that the running boards mount to, but I wanted to make sure getting into/out of the vehicle wasn’t too much of an issue for my wife first. So far, so good!

 

[100s]

250,000 miles all original (one owner) our 06. All Toyota parts.
Original Heater T’s replaced
Front skid wire brushed and rust-restorer coated
New idler pulley
New water inlet
New thermostat (and gasket of course)
New lower rad hose (upper rad hose is fine, but Toyota gave me the wrong hose (will replace with T belt in 10k)
New Radiator (came with cap, now have a spare)
Wire brushed under battery tray and coated with rust restorer
Full soup to nuts coolant drain and flush (inc block) with pink 50/50
Throttle body clean
Clean battery terminals and connectors, apply new coat of superlube

Pulling the rad w/o pulling the fan and shroud worked just fine. I prefilled the block using the upper hose.

We flush every 50-70k and other than the rad failing (plastic) she was super clean inside.

 

[skookum]

Got some Diode Dynamics ditch lights mounted up and the switch panel wired to run an amber circuit.

 

[Hoserock]

I got her 5 years ago and this is my first time doing this. I did the engine filter as well and can definitely tell she runs smoother.

 

[juicemode]

Not sure if the globes are bad or not but the 2002 production sticker is why I changed them for new. One banana job thank goodness.

 

[gregdawg89]

Replaced battery trays and cleaned up light surface corrosion, then primed & painted.

 

[FZJ105]

I’d nearly rather pull the dash out again than ever do this job again

Upgrading the sub tank to 174l long range. Everything is so tight! They really designed this thing for max fuel capacity and left no room for activities

 

[100d ua]

Created a VERY low budget recovery board carrier using factory hardware, existing L brackets that I just needed to re-drill and cut down and $3 worth of nuts and bolts from the hardware store. The goal was to create something low profile and get them out of inside storage since that’s the sleeping area and I like to keep it clean.

Ultimately, the plan is to get some black Rhino recovery boards for an even more slim profile and also because I cannot stand the gaudy green.

Best part is that I can install and remove the entire thing in just 2-3 minutes so I don’t have to look silly carrying these on my way to work.

 

[FZJ105]

Sub tank is back out. Absolutely cursed myself by posting here before the job is done. Anyway, got the sub tank mounted, hit the key and pressed the Sub button

The good news is my new fuel pump works, bad news is that I didn’t see a split steel line on the pump housing and there was fuel spraying everywhere!

I tried to save a few pennies by using a housing for this tank from a wreck and it’s come back to bite me haha. I’ve spent enough on this car, cut the split out and used a non OEM hose to connect to the car. Not ideal but it is what it is

Glad I’m not fussy, coz the tank got scratched to heck after 2 installs, even with a drop sheet under it. Happy with the clearance, it sits up higher than the stock muffler

 

[Superdude]

Here is my rear diff NIGHTMARE. With a good ending:

I went to drain my rear diff a few months ago. The drain plug came out rough, and it pulled a ton of threads out with it. The previous owner's mechanic over tightened it.

I proceeded to buy a very expensive Time Sert kit. I work at a performance shop as a mechanic. I got this. I had 2 of the best people I trust watching me drill and tap from all angles. They said "you're good bro, send it." Well, I wasn't good bro. The time sert was drilled/tapped SUPER crooked. Now my diff is leaking very slowly. Drip...drip.

I let it drip in front of my house for a couple of months. Unsure of what to do. Do I weld the hole closed?

Another Co-worker gave me the idea to install an NPT pipe thread plug. The next size up was a humongous 3/4 inch plug.

So I drilled/tapped for NPT. I used a drill guide this time, to make sure I was drilling flush. By God, my diff is fixed, sealed, and it drains super fast now, lol.

 

[Superdude]

On a positive note. I installed a metal front bumper last week! Had to do the Land Cruiser corner lamp mod for it to work. OEM LC corner lamps.

Then went camping this past weekend, Idyllwild Pines, CA. Will be installing off road and SAE fog lights into the bumper asap.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Trail Tailor’s billet recovery point did not disappoint. The attention to detail is top tier. I like the satin anodized red finish as well.

 

[choyota]

On a positive note. I installed a metal front bumper last week! Had to do the Land Cruiser corner lamp mod for it to work. OEM LC corner lamps.

Then went camping this past weekend, Idyllwild Pines, CA. Will be installing off road and SAE fog lights into the bumper asap.

View attachment 3916911View attachment 3916912View attachment 3916914View attachment 3916918View attachment 3916919

SUPER DAVE!

 

[keerolee]

Bought 3rd row head rests:

 

[keerolee]

Bought 3rd row head rests:


View attachment 3916998

Bought also leather paint:

 

[Superdude]

SUPER DAVE!

Tis me, haha

 

[Irishpilot]

Thanks L @FullyLitLED for the plug-and-play LED conversion. Love the brightness of the interior! Highly recommend this kit. Before and after pics. For camping and night ops, the brightness is great. The front reading lights are the red LEDs, and they are perfect for keeping night vision while driving.

After:

 

[LJE]

Here is my rear diff NIGHTMARE. With a good ending:

I went to drain my rear diff a few months ago. The drain plug came out rough, and it pulled a ton of threads out with it. The previous owner's mechanic over tightened it.

I proceeded to buy a very expensive Time Sert kit. I work at a performance shop as a mechanic. I got this. I had 2 of the best people I trust watching me drill and tap from all angles. They said "you're good bro, send it." Well, I wasn't good bro. The time sert was drilled/tapped SUPER crooked. Now my diff is leaking very slowly. Drip...drip.

I let it drip in front of my house for a couple of months. Unsure of what to do. Do I weld the hole closed?

Another Co-worker gave me the idea to install an NPT pipe thread plug. The next size up was a humongous 3/4 inch plug.

So I drilled/tapped for NPT. I used a drill guide this time, to make sure I was drilling flush. By God, my diff is fixed, sealed, and it drains super fast now, lol.

View attachment 3916877View attachment 3916879View attachment 3916880View attachment 3916881

That's some good thinking right there! I hate drilling and tapping on angles... Being so large doesn't help either.

EDIT: The *hole* being so large doesn't help. I'm not making any inferences about @Superdude 's size.

 

[Superdude]

That's some good thinking right there! I hate drilling and tapping on angles... Being so large doesn't help either.

EDIT: The *hole* being so large doesn't help. I'm not making any inferences about @Superdude 's size.

It's not the size of the drill bit, it's how you drill it.

 

[TLEXAS]

First batch of 100 series BBK sets came in today from Thailand. Slight delay due to the change of rates in tariffs and logistic requirements but they’re stateside now. Cerakoatedd 6-piston forged monoblock front caliper.
View attachment 3912686
Box of donut next to it for scale. This is matched with a front and rear 355mm full-floater disc rotors. I didn’t went for the carbon ceramic rotors yet but will consider it in the next few years.

Do you have a supplier reference for them purtie things. Was going to rebuild and paint my current calipers but may just buy a new set. Done 620,000km on current originals.