What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (32 Viewers)

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Installed an Australian made left side swing arm and dual Jerry can holder

Installed a Rhino Rack Pionner 6 platform with individual feet, I feel like the more modern backbone mounts don’t suit these older vehicles

Got a box of parts from Japan overnight, full set of 555 ball joints and tie rod arms, genuine rocker cover gaskets, once these are in the whole front end has been replaced ✅

I’m aiming to get another 20yrs out of this wagon
 
Where was your last picture from, where your LX is all dirty?
At Everglades, that was Bear Lake Rd.
I'm not sure what I was expecting, but heavy showers had just rolled through, and it was a muddy mess. Like most, ih8mud, and 1500 miles from home with no winch or gear of any kind I was a bit worried, but the LX had absolutely no problems of course. Drove the entire thing then turned around and drove back.

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Added a Prinsu roof rack, OVS 270 Awning, Alta Bike rack and replaced the worn out shocks with OEM shocks. Pretty happy with how it is turning out.
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Super nice cruiser. Nice to see what mine would look like w some darker wheel. Mine started off much the same
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Installed an Australian made left side swing arm and dual Jerry can holder

Installed a Rhino Rack Pionner 6 platform with individual feet, I feel like the more modern backbone mounts don’t suit these older vehicles

Got a box of parts from Japan overnight, full set of 555 ball joints and tie rod arms, genuine rocker cover gaskets, once these are in the whole front end has been replaced ✅

I’m aiming to get another 20yrs out of this wagon
Do you know where to get these window visors? The US ones and even the JDM ones seem to be different. I like these because they look more like the 80 and 60 series ones.
 
Do you know where to get these window visors? The US ones and even the JDM ones seem to be different. I like these because they look more like the 80 and 60 series ones.
Wellvisors brand probably
 
New Lloyd floor mats (so nice) and new ceramic window tint.

Question on the mats,
How close of a match are they to the dash? Is that the same color as the dark brown/olive that the two tone tan interiors on the LC have?

I ordered a set of grey mats from a dealer that are nowhere close, so they're collecting dust.
 
Changed the engine and transmission mounts on the 100. Totally solved a bad vibration I was getting when stopped in Drive. I’m guessing they broke at 320k miles.

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Question on the mats,
How close of a match are they to the dash? Is that the same color as the dark brown/olive that the two tone tan interiors on the LC have?

I ordered a set of grey mats from a dealer that are nowhere close, so they're collecting dust.
I ordered a bunch of their free sample color swatches, but they didn’t have anything that matched the dash color exactly. I ended up choosing the Brownstone (720) color. It’s a grayish brown, leaning more towards the dark grey side of things. When you put the Brownstone color up to the dash it looks a lot more gray than the dash. I wanted something that would be a middle ground between the brown/grayish/greenish dash and the tan seats/carpet. I think the Brownstone does that. Lloyd has a Dark Brown (700) color that’s a true brown that I almost went with before landing on the Brownstone color. I went back and forth for quite a while. I think the Dark Brown would also look good in a tan interior and look good with the dash color also.

I tried to capture some pictures of the color swatches on top of the dash and on the armrest. In both pictures from left to right I have Dark Brown (700) -> Brownstone (720) -> Parchment Brown (760)

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I have a set sitting on my shelf for over a year - how bad was the job? Any special tools required?
A healthy dose of patience, otherwise no special tools.

I removed the bolts from the fan shroud, a/c crossover hose mounts, removed the front tires and inner splash guard, removed the bolts/nuts, then jacked up the engine from the side of the oil pan flange. I could then remove the old mount and install the new one. It’s a bit tricky getting everything to align again, and the driver side is a bit tight for my meaty hands. That and the fear of not putting your fingers anywhere they can get squished off… The rear you need to support the bottom of the transmission-a board across the pan with a jack works fine. Then remove the cross member and the mount. Make sure you get all four bolts into the transfer case before you put the crossmember on - one of them is a bear to line up.
 
Changed the engine and transmission mounts on the 100. Totally solved a bad vibration I was getting when stopped in Drive. I’m guessing they broke at 320k miles.

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That’s been on my to-do list for a while. I have a good vibration at stop in drive as well. How long did it take you? Did you use a lift or crawl around on the ground?
 
Working on a stealth install of @MongooseGA 's excellent tailgate storage kit! I'm re-using my original factory tailgate carpet to keep as OEM of a look as possible.

The storage doors will get the carpet that I cut out here glued (3M Super 77) on top of them & the latches will get installed through the carpet. The cheap hole punch kit from Harbor Freight worked awesome for punching out the holes for the fasteners.

Drivers side also has a cutout for a 3D printed cup holder insert, passanger side has my Lumberjack Engineering beard logo cutout in it. Super excited to finish this up soon!
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That’s been on my to-do list for a while. I have a good vibration at stop in drive as well. How long did it take you? Did you use a lift or crawl around on the ground?
I used a lift and a floor jack with a 4x4 to lift the engine / trans, but it would just be more gymnastics without the lift. You want to be able to control how quickly you lower the engine back down while you make sure it’s all aligned, so consider that in your jack choice. I’d plan a half day if you take your time.
 
Fixed my drivers exhaust manifold tick. The tick was pretty bad as it wouldn't go away after the engine warming up. Took me closer to 6 hours to do this.
Someone in the past caked on JB weld or something all over the manifolds, and the studs in the process....so that was fun to deal with.
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As soon as the first manifold to cat nuts started to strip...I decided to just cut the exhaust manifold right above the cat flange with a sawzall and removed the catalytic converter, after moving the heat shield, I also cut the manifold in half between the sets of block flanges and was able to get it out without lifting the engine or removing the steering shaft.
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I did lift the engine to swap out the motor mounts and transmission mount, and to get the new manifold in. The motor mounts came out in one piece but since I bought new ones...might as well....the lc rides better and much much quieter now...
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