Did a little stretching at Broken Arrow trail Sedona AZ. Highly recommended.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (57 Viewers)
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Super glue and a plastic thumb tack push pin was the perfect shape for fixing the rear upper hatch handle latch mechanism.
Today was a blast doing the lower control arm bushings in the frame!
First tried a ball joint press with a sleeve that fit perfectly, which did nothing whatsoever. I then tried the air hammer, but that more or less turned the outer bushing sleeve into aluminum foil welded to the inside of a pipe, because the sleeve gave up before the rust did. I drilled and torched it until the rubber and inner sleeve came out, then scored the outer sleeve with a sawzall. Knocked it the rest of the way out with the air hammer and started working on the second one. When I was pushing the outer sleeve out of that one, my air compressor motor decided to seize up LOL.
That's when I threw a harbor freight crescent wrench about 50 yards (in the air). It was the nearest thing to me that didn't say snap on, so it took the ride. Whoever decided to put these bushings into the frame probably saved toyota $2.30 per vehicle. He and the Genius Motors/Isuzu scientist that decided to put one duramax water pump bolt behind the timing cover can **** right off...I bought new control arms so I don't have to deal with s*** like this. 257k miles and they probably could've been left alone though...pretty impressive!
First tried a ball joint press with a sleeve that fit perfectly, which did nothing whatsoever. I then tried the air hammer, but that more or less turned the outer bushing sleeve into aluminum foil welded to the inside of a pipe, because the sleeve gave up before the rust did. I drilled and torched it until the rubber and inner sleeve came out, then scored the outer sleeve with a sawzall. Knocked it the rest of the way out with the air hammer and started working on the second one. When I was pushing the outer sleeve out of that one, my air compressor motor decided to seize up LOL.
That's when I threw a harbor freight crescent wrench about 50 yards (in the air). It was the nearest thing to me that didn't say snap on, so it took the ride. Whoever decided to put these bushings into the frame probably saved toyota $2.30 per vehicle. He and the Genius Motors/Isuzu scientist that decided to put one duramax water pump bolt behind the timing cover can **** right off...I bought new control arms so I don't have to deal with s*** like this. 257k miles and they probably could've been left alone though...pretty impressive!
On the contrary. I like that they put the bolt behind the crank pulley on a Dmax. It’s made me alot Of money changing water pumps. I can do one in 1-2 hours.
Ha! That's one way of looking at it. What's book time on that? I remember an O ringed pipe that you have to twist and slide in with great care, too. I seem to remember covering it in lubriplate and hoping for the best...
When I got my 5.9, I could see the garage floor from the engine bay, and I was ecstatic. No fuel cooled injector modules or fuel pressure regulators buried in valleys with tiny blind screws. I hated working on that dmax.
Early trucks like 6 hours 06+ was like 8.5 hours book.
Yup o-ring from t stat to top of water pump. New orings every time with a solid coat of dielectric grease, twist gently and install. I’ve done ALOT of them.
Time to steal some siran wrap from the wife's kitchen supplies to hold this boot together while waiting on the new axle to arrive. Might engineer a duct tape outer layer to finish it off. 
4.88s are finally in after a long wait for the parts, currently breaking them in for a few weeks. Excited to see the performance towing and on trail this summer.
Finally tackled the steering rack. I went ahead and replaced the motor mounts and got all new hardware for everything that I had to remove.
New rack with Whiteline bushings and all new hardware.
The return line seized in the rack itself, got it freed with some heat only the find the line seized inside the fitting. Cut the line and sourced a new one.
My best helper and shadow
And in the gravel driveway?!?!??! Your man card got 17 extra punches today. Well done. That kid is gonna grow up going "dad can do it," and before you know it, he'll be the one going "nah. *I* can do it."
Nicely done, dad.
We have to “make do” sometimes. He doesn’t complain though. As long as he has a tool in hand and a “job” of some sort he’s happy. I will say, it went a good bit smoother than expected, even with the seized return line.
I did flex seal on an axle for 7,000 miles and no clicking!Time to steal some siran wrap from the wife's kitchen supplies to hold this boot together while waiting on the new axle to arrive. Might engineer a duct tape outer layer to finish it off.
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did you just pack it full of grease? I've got a new axle on the way, but need to limp my 8 mile daily commute until it gets here.
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Eyedaho
SILVER Star
It's pretty specific grease, and I don't think you want to mix different grease with it. The reboot kits come with one grease for the inner and one for the outer. If you're replacing the axle anyway I would probably just try to seal it up and roll with it.did you just pack it full of grease? I've got a new axle on the way, but need to limp my 8 mile daily commute until it gets here.
did you just pack it full of grease? I've got a new axle on the way, but need to limp my 8 mile daily commute until it gets here.
Oh it’ll be fine. Mines been clicking for 1500 miles and got wheeled a weekend.
I’m looking at putting a front bumper on my Lexus LX470 2006. I’m looking for winch capable, LED light ports and a basic tube brush guard. Not much is out there for after market. So I found someone who makes custom bumpers. What I’ve noticed in my research is that a lot of these front bumpers taper downwards and have a V shaped skid plate at the bottom, leaving the shocks and springs exposed. Someone said this has to due with the angle of repose when off-roading. Can anyone explain that to me?
I’m not a fan of the look or leaving the shocks and springs exposed but my options are limited. Thoughts?
I’m not a fan of the look or leaving the shocks and springs exposed but my options are limited. Thoughts?
Drive one front wheel up on an at least one foot tall rock or somesuch thing and observe how much the whole control arms/shock thingamajig moves up and down. That travel alone makes it hard to design any sort of armor for that area.
The shocks are made with thick steel and springs are literally a solid steel bar, they are usually not affected by the road debris. And as long as you place your wheel over the obstacles, you don't hit them much either.
Thanks Classy. So does that what angle of repose means? As a wheel/shocks rise the angle becomes larger so less chance of hitting the shocks and springs? What is the purpose of doing away with a bumper that wraps around the whole front? Thanks for your feedback. Cheers.
