What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (46 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I built a 4 tire inflation hose to take advantage of the Napa MaxTrac compressor. This thing is a monster. Just over 2 min to inflate all 4 tires from 18 to 34 psi. I timed 8 minutes total from opening the door to getting back in, and I wasn’t rushing.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Ordered a 24mm extractor socket. Not specific to the 100 series, but I've been battling the front-diff fill plug on my 88 4Runner for a while now. No amount of heat or penetrant seemed to help. I was about to break down and take it to a shop since all I had managed to do was strip the fill plug head.
Hooked up this bad boy to a breaker bar and pipe and it came right off. Since this is the 100-series forum I ordered replacement low-profile fill and drain plugs from Witts End to replace the stripped out old one.
Hooked up this bad boy to a breaker bar and pipe and it came right off. Since this is the 100-series forum I ordered replacement low-profile fill and drain plugs from Witts End to replace the stripped out old one.
Started my suspected oil cooler cooler leak fix. Drained the block today, and got the s***ty coolant hose out. Found a figure 8 o ring on the crossmember from the previous owners steering rack replacement. I’m taking bets if there isn’t an o ring but gasket maker there.
Was just planning on pulling the skid and draining the coolant, but had an extra 45 minutes so got the s***ty hose out. Have most of tomorrow to pull, clean, replace, and burp coolant.
Was just planning on pulling the skid and draining the coolant, but had an extra 45 minutes so got the s***ty hose out. Have most of tomorrow to pull, clean, replace, and burp coolant.
yeah that one looks like its gone past it. done all mine recently
The funny thing is the the oil cooler/bracket is still on the block…. Just the old gasket was laying around
Another 1300 trouble free miles
You must not be familiar with the method of tapping in on the plugs with a hammer prior to removing them. It crushes the aluminum crush washers further, making the plug loose. A couple of good hammer taps and you can practically unscrew the plug with your fingers.....
Never needed anything more then a hammer and a short handled socket wrench to remove them.
Finally pulled the trigger on an Eaton rear locker from cruiser outfitters.
I didn’t trust any of my local jeep places to install, so my diff is on a journey to Utah for installation.
I didn’t trust any of my local jeep places to install, so my diff is on a journey to Utah for installation.
Be sure to let us know how it turns out. I know that someday I will eventually need to do this.
Are you please able to direct where we can find the other end of the harness to control this feature?
I haven’t traced the factory provisioned harness yet as to where the other end leads, my guess, it goes to a specific control unit (ecu) behind the dash. Same ecu that detects when the doors are unlocked/open.
Never thought of that. I changed out the rear diff and transfer case fluids on my '07 LX, but could not get the front diff's plugs out with the 10mm hex socket. I'll go back and try this trick and see if it helps any.
Replacing both click-clacking CV axles. Tell me what I forgot:
2x cv axle oem
2x cv axle seals
2x hub flange oem
2x hub gaskets
Paying to have this installed but ordering parts. Want to make sure I’m not missing anything stupid before setting dates.
2x cv axle oem
2x cv axle seals
2x hub flange oem
2x hub gaskets
Paying to have this installed but ordering parts. Want to make sure I’m not missing anything stupid before setting dates.
I literally just did this job in my garage; first time I’ve replaced CV axles of any kind and it was very involved.
Assuming the shop has cotter pins on hand for the LBJs and UBJs the should be separated during the removal process, I’d bring them two new dust caps (they’re noted in the FSM as being non-reusable) and two new snap rings.
This is the 2.2mm or “E” marked snap ring. That’s what comes stock, but there are like 8 width options depending on your Cruiser’s needs. Check out Me My on YouTube for additional guidance.
90520-31008 Genuine Toyota Ring, Snap
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 90520-31008 (9052031008) Ring, Snap for $2.69. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
Last edited:
Did you do both in a day? I’ve done everything axle back besides the CVs myself. I may just suck it up and save labor.I literally just did this job in my garage; first timer and it was very involved.
Assuming the shop has cotter pins on hand for the LBJs and UBJs, I’d bring them two new dust caps (they’re noted in the FSM as being non-reusable) and two new snap rings.
This is the 2.2mm or “E” marked snap ring. That’s what comes stock, but there are like 8 width options depending on your Cruiser’s needs. Check out Me My on YouTube for additional guidance.
90520-31008 Genuine Toyota Ring, Snap
ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 90520-31008 (9052031008) Ring, Snap for $2.69. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.
Just re-read. Lost me at “very involved”.
My time is limited and I got a 4 hour quote for $600 on the job.
That’s much more palpable than the $1,000 I was quoted—plus they wouldn’t accept OEM TOYOTA parts that I didn’t get through them. I did the job over a couple days. Like two hours on a Friday night and another 6-7 hours on a Saturday, then buttoned it up today (30 mins) after I got my snap rings and replacement front Bora spacers.
Nothing new on the girl, still tryna figure it all out. Still kinda high from the purchase of our 04 LC.
This is whatever the sales team came up with before we made the 4.5 hr drive.
This is whatever the sales team came up with before we made the 4.5 hr drive.
