I can tell you the dissent skid plate does
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (60 Viewers)
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If it really bugs you, some of JB Weld’s epoxy putty smushed into the letters and then sanded smooth does a pretty good job as a filler prior to painting. I did not paint my skid, but my roof rack fairing has held up well with a thorough sand/prime/paint application.About to install the Ass-Fur skids. Waiting on a Fumoto valve from Amazon so I can do one last oil change before install. I really wish they wouldn't put their logo on the front skid.
I'm in luck Mine have the bolt holes for the storage bracket. I'll look to order the bracket. Thanks for sharing.
Got that new, new Ironman 4x4 Classic Off Road bumper installed and relocated my Road Safe recovery points to the front with new 80mm long Grade 10 bolts. Stout. This is the way.
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Looking badarse @DIFF LOCK 
Thank you! BORA 1.25” wheel spacers are up next. In the words of the great Hannibal from The A-Team, “I love it when a plan comes together.”Looking badarse @DIFF LOCK
If you have kids you're probably familiar with the book, "If You Give a Mouse a Cookie!". That's how it's been this week with the Landcruiser. After a spell of deferred maintenance I decided to get after the CV's and brakes. I had redone the CV's three years ago, but they were rebuilds and I wasn't happy with them, so I ordered new ones from Toyota and also ordered up an "Axle Kit" from StopTech for the front brakes. After tearing everything apart, I opted to replace the hub bearings and seals (inner and outer) but the seals in the axle tubes look good, so will keep those. Then looking at the spherical ball joints in the Total Chaos UCAs, I noticed a little slop, so ordered a set of replacements. The urethane bushings look to be in great shape, so those will go back in. I bought a bearing replacement tool set from HF.
First off, the lower control arm ball joint was a cast-iron B to break free. Pickle fork wouldn't budge it, so back to the store for a puller. I thought that wasn't going to work either, but it finally popped loose sounding like a gunshot. (To the mechanic who did my last CV's "Buy a friggin' torque wrench and some anti-seize"!) Seriously, this guy used a rattle gun to install a 12mm bolt that held one of the ABS sensor brackets and cracked it. The bolt head sheared off when I started to loosen it with a shorty wrench!
First off, the lower control arm ball joint was a cast-iron B to break free. Pickle fork wouldn't budge it, so back to the store for a puller. I thought that wasn't going to work either, but it finally popped loose sounding like a gunshot. (To the mechanic who did my last CV's "Buy a friggin' torque wrench and some anti-seize"!) Seriously, this guy used a rattle gun to install a 12mm bolt that held one of the ABS sensor brackets and cracked it. The bolt head sheared off when I started to loosen it with a shorty wrench!
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
And that is why many of us are leary of letting others touch our toys.
I did a brief write up several years ago. It's not that involved.
Fender removal
Ok I searched not only on this site but on the inter-webs as well as my FSM for fender removal and I can not find a "how-to". The FSM pretty much covers all body related removal except for the fenders. Is it because it is so simple? What am I missing?
forum.ih8mud.com
This is bittersweet because it serves as a battlescar. I finally worked up the courage to take my mallcrawler on an intermediate ohv trail, rather than the beginner trails ive run over and over again. I came across an early 2000s jeep and early 2000s 2wd ranger running the trail ahead of me, all new to offroading themselves. We helped spot eachother through some gnarly ruts and i towed the 2wd ranger twice out of said ruts.
All in all it was a great time, and I’m surprised with how well my truck did.
That rust sucks, but it's fairly common. Have you tried removing the rear mud guards and inspect the low quarter panels? I bet you'll find the same situation. I'm fixing the same (ok, not that bad
) on my 100. And I did previously on my j90. Cut, clean, weld, paint. I'm often considering to cut the rocker panel entirely and weld a square tube (2x6" maybe?) instead. But I guess I'm waiting until the rust damage is irreversible
I am in the process now, I plan to do a write up on how I did it. Strangely you are even correct on the tubing lol, I am using 2x6.That rust sucks, but it's fairly common. Have you tried removing the rear mud guards and inspect the low quarter panels? I bet you'll find the same situation. I'm fixing the same (ok, not that bad
I'm often considering to cut the rocker panel entirely and weld a square tube (2x6" maybe?) instead. But I guess I'm waiting until the rust damage is irreversible
Will do. It’s been a process so far. Right now I have just finished fabbing up the brackets and finishing test fits and last minute oh s***s. I have been documenting everything along the way though.Please take many pictures!
AC will go to 3 but not MAX/HI anymore, seems to cut off. Weird.
That looks like The (Oregon) Coast Range. Brown’s Camp maybe?
Is that up near Brown’s Camp by chance? Your profile mentions that you’re in Oregon. If you’re in the Portland (Hillsboro) area and want to check out some sliders I have a set of MetalTechs on mine.
Yup! Are you looking to sell? I’m thinking about holding off on buying for now since i work in a fab shop and my boss has mentioned helping me make some, but curious about used prices nonetheless.
Mine aren't for sale, but you can take a look to get some ideas if you want. These have saved me from damage a number of times.
