Just did my 470 yesterday... Mobile 1 HM is great stuff.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (45 Viewers)
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Just did my 470 yesterday... Mobile 1 HM is great stuff.
These oil have a little conditioning inside to help freshen rubber seals i think. I've heard that somewhere but too lazy to search.
Had a rust spot over the windshield repaired. The previous owner had to have the windshield replaced in Argentina, and apparently they scratched the paint with led to the rust. Local body shop took out the windshield, sanded it down, treated it, and matched the paint. Hopefully that will protect it moving forward.
Before and after...
Before and after...
@Ghosting My passenger side A-pillar looked just like your first pic, but I also had knife cut marks all along the top edge of the window frame from shoddy work under the PO. My windshield got cracked bad on the freeway just a day after buying it, but was fully-covered by USSA (they even approved OEM TOYOTA glass with the correct green tint up top). Safelite needed the rust fixed first before they would replace the glass, so I had to take it to a body shop. My original quote was around $560, but after they got into it, the rust was much more extensive than originally thought. I wasn't surprised as the PO had a dealership/body shop address it many years ago during a windshield replacement (and subsequently making the problem worse with the aforementioned sloppy window molding removal). I'm now looking at about $650 for it to be completely sanded down, treated with POR-15, and then repainted and blended. I anticipate getting the Cruiser back tomorrow. Curious what your body shop charged you for similar work.
Total cost was $1500, but that included the windshield replacement, removal of the roof rack, replacement of the seals on the sunroof on top of the rust treatment and paint. I know these guys are expensive, but they do great work.
Did you have to remove the roof rail to install the brackets? Did you decide on a particular awning?
Wanted to replace diff seal but in the process dislocated my CVA.
It was original OEM. Didn't have much grease left inside.
Refurb OEM arrived after about 3 weeks.
After the destruction of passenger side, I decided to replace the driver side as well. That will get done tomorrow.
It was original OEM. Didn't have much grease left inside.
Refurb OEM arrived after about 3 weeks.
After the destruction of passenger side, I decided to replace the driver side as well. That will get done tomorrow.
The OEM key finally broke... Got the YOTA MD1 in (Black with a Red Titanium insert). Looks way better and feels durable.
Nice.
I have these on my Outback and they are great. Too bad these are out of stock for the LC.
Amazon product ASIN B01I8LTETK
Update: Spill was contained in the driver's side rear part of the trunk up next to the tailgate. Gas has embedded into the carpeting, foam and even the rubber/gum on the metal floorboard. Carpeting and foam has been removed for the most part and the metal underneath that is still looking good - very slick though! That 2 hour roundtrip commute each day this week has been rough on the lungs and nostrils but I get an excuse to hang my head out the window with my tongue flopping in the wind
The exterior, where the gas exited the trunk, is pretty much dry and there's no sign of oily residue or anything but I might be noticing some new rust spots on the trailer hitch mounts, inside of the bumper and around the frame............. 
What products would anyone recommend using to clean the floor metal in the trunk that could rid the car of the fumes?
Is it possible to order a replacement trunk carpet? The foam can probably be had at any fabric shop or Amazon, right?
I finally repaired the torn boot. The axle is only 2 year old, but the grease in that inner boot was gross!
Ordered BF Goodrich All-Terrains in 285/75/R16 for it to be installed on Sunday.
Temporarily removed bumper yesterday out of boredom and curiosity for a custom one in the future.
Also took my running boards off about two weeks ago.
Temporarily removed bumper yesterday out of boredom and curiosity for a custom one in the future.
Also took my running boards off about two weeks ago.
I just installed a new Sony head unit and backup camera. Then I accidentally broke a nipple of my intake while removing it. A new intake is over $400 so I'm going to try building up a layer of epoxy first and if that doesn't work use a brass fitting. Also, it's time to replaces just about all of my vacuum lines.
This little crappy thing works OK most of the time. Got a P0440 code on my way to work this morning.. luckily it was just the gas cap this time! Checked, fixed and erased.
Hmmm i think i'd feel more comfortable if you shaved the nipple down and then bore a hole and thread the brass fitting through and epoxy that as well. Shouldn't take long, that fitting should be self tapping into plastic if you use the correct dril bit.
I just pressure washed them, hit them with a wire wheel, wiped with denatured alcohol, 3 coats of duplicolor self etching primer, sand with 400 grit, 4 coats of duplicolor Bronze wheel paint. I really took my time with each step, but not a pro job by any means.
TheLCProject
SILVER Star
I made some mounts to attach my Alu-cab Shadowawn to my Eezi-Awn load bars.
#firstwelds
#firstwelds
Was bored and bad things happen when you're bored. Scuffed the chrome masked off the grey and laid down adhesion promoter. Then proceeded to lay down gloss black. All went well to the upper right corner started to fish eye. Thought I wiped everything down good but apparently not. I'll wait for it to cure a little more and go back and same that portion down and respray.
