What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (60 Viewers)

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Cranked the torsion bars after they settled about an inch from adding the metal bumper. I was expecting my inner tie rods to arrive today but apparently FedEx is running late. After I get those on it's off for alignment. Is there logical reason for the terror I felt cranking up the torsion bars? LOL...

Oh, I also greased up the DS.
 
wasatch back said:
New steering rack and all new hoses. New booties, innies and outies. New brake pads and rotors. Oil change. Took it for a spin in the hills. Got it home, battery is dead and the hood needs a wiffle ball bat to stand at attention. Guess I’ll order the rear hatch arms too. Still need to replace the antenna and the OEM shocks and airbags for towing that have been hanging around for 60+ days. There went the moolah I saved for sliders. Hope that battery bounces back. 3 stream crossings today, glad it made it home!View attachment 2673592View attachment 2673594View attachment 2673595View attachment 2673596View attachment 2673598
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All that work will get you home more reliably than the sliders. A+ on prioritization. The hood struts are a nice upgrade and piece of mind for keeping hood off your head.
 
Going in deep, wish me luck
IMG_20210515_091615.jpg
 
1) Installed a new OEM thermostat and gasket. The old thermostat liked to run between 190 to 194. Sometimes it would climb up to 204 on trails. Scanguage is a good thing to monitor temps on the trail. When I saw the elevated temps, I thought the jiggle valve may have been off the 12 o'clock position or it was some aftermarket thermostat. It turned out to be an OEM at 12 o'clock. I did notice a residue on the valve door like it was very old.

With A/C and some aggressive driving, the new thermostat hasn't gone beyond 188. Now it usually hangs around 184.

2) Installed a new evaporator cover gasket and new air filters. No filters were being used when I opened it. There was a small number of leaves and pine needles in the bottom of the evaporator case tray. It was easily cleaned with a vacuum. The A/C smells nice and fresh now.

3) Washed it and gave it a Meguiars Ultimate quick wax before I go off-road tomorrow. I've learned that a wipe down with quick wax keeps away trail brush pinstripes.
 
Did an A/C 'on vehicle inspection'.

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Compressor has been replaced recently (6 months ago) , system was charged then. All other parts original so 23 years old.
I think this points to condenser/evap underperforming. Set to replace them both, plus thermistor sensor . expansion valve. pressure switch
 
jmj2323 said:
I’ve only had it a week, but I have done few things already to my 2001 LX470. The first thing I did was add a Yakima Mega Warrior I picked up from a guy who took it off of a 2021 4Runner. It works until I figure out what I want/need on top. Second thing done was to remove the running boards. Next was replacing the bald Michelins with BF Goodrich AT K03s. I read and reread a 100 posts and finally decided against the 33s for now and stuck with the stock size. I got a 2 inch file of the last 20 years of maintenance and there was no record of a spark plug change. I pulled one and they had been recently changed so all good there. Next up is to fix the 2 or 3 blown speakers. View attachment 2671698

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Meant to ask this when I posted it- I’m thinking of tossing the running boards. I’ll never put them back on and I don’t plan on selling it. Will I regret tossing them?
 
jmj2323 said:
Meant to ask this when I posted it- I’m thinking of tossing the running boards. I’ll never put them back on and I don’t plan on selling it. Will I regret tossing them?
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I'd see if anyone here wants them rather than tossing them.
 
SoExpensive said:
Added an ac condensate drain tube extension (with custom flared tip... +5hp) Now what to do about the rust on the AHC lines?

View attachment 2675295
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Mine looks exactly the same as yours, scuffed it with 400 grit sand paper, used black enamel paint and 1” paint brush and called it the day.
 
One thing I noticed with single-stage paint method (which was the method used on our 100s) on plastic components is that they don’t hold up very well, they tend to oxidize and fade prematurely than the metal body panels or maybe the chemicals used I really dont know. That said, it was the front bumper after the side claddings:
5778E3FF-7FB3-4C85-9501-ACB3958B3F56.jpeg

allowing the 2k clear to fully cure, next is mild cut and gloss using DA polisher then ceramic coat.

Front bumper rehab:
CB81A9F5-47D7-47D4-93E2-776DFD3E0D25.jpeg

will check again for surface imperfections and if need be filler/primer will be done again. Plan to use at least two coats of base since the front always takes the beating.
 
I'm revamping my 2001 LC100, so this weekend I replaced the burned out D bulp in the dash, put in a new V8 logo on the back, installed new fog lights and new wind shield wiper arms (front and back). Personally, don't see a problem with the D bulb, it dims when the lights are turned off and always bothered me to see a missing light :)
 
got the steering wheel back on, and no vcs freak out with the roll pinned hub however after putting it all together no start. took it back apart and tried to start with no wheel on and fired up. put it back together and all fine. started a few times and all good. no idea there.

shaved the wings off the nrg hub and roll pinned it

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have another vintage momo on the way while i decide what i’m gonna do

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blackohio said:
got the steering wheel back on, and no vcs freak out with the roll pinned hub however after putting it all together no start. took it back apart and tried to start with no wheel on and fired up. put it back together and all fine. started a few times and all good. no idea there.

shaved the wings off the nrg hub and roll pinned it

View attachment 2676005
View attachment 2676006

have another vintage momo on the way while i decide what i’m gonna do

View attachment 2676007
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What did you do with your old steering wheel? And why did you replace it?
 
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