What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (61 Viewers)

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Hit the trails again, this time with the suspension and sliders in place. This thing just continues to impress me with what it's capable of, it handled everything that I was too cautious to attempt last time I was out there without at least minimal armor. Can't wait to get a bumper for better approach angle, skid plates, and some 34's on it.




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Looks like I have a new project to start collecting parts for.
Figured a temporary fix was worth a shot. Gorilla patch & seal tape all the way around and back on itself, scalloped every inch so it folds on itself and doesn’t bunch up on the sides. Held for 40mi so far! Will keep an eye on it.
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Figured a temporary fix was worth a shot. Gorilla patch & seal tape all the way around and back on itself, scalloped every inch so it folds on itself and doesn’t bunch up on the sides. Held for 40mi so far! Will keep an eye on it.View attachment 2676999
I remember wrapping my torn boot in ziplock bags and lots of tape. It didn’t hold up very well lol. But we went on a longer 150 mile-ish trip.
 
I repaired the speaker foam in my LX470. I thought it was only the left side that was crackling but it turns out all 5 speakers were blown. On the up upside I am an expert at removing door panels now and the stereo sounds 100x better. I spent the night listening to a bunch of Nirvana, Pearl Jam and Radiohead CDs.
how hard is it to remove the door panels on the 100 ? I havent even tried but I want to change the motors for the door locks , im just thinking about how long it is going to take me and I also dont want to break other parts while trying to fix some.. lol
 
how hard is it to remove the door panels on the 100 ? I havent even tried but I want to change the motors for the door locks , im just thinking about how long it is going to take me and I also dont want to break other parts while trying to fix some.. lol
I was pretty apprehensive about removing my door panel to change out the door handle ( chrome was flaking). It’s not hard at all. The hardest part was getting the power window trim out.
 
I was pretty apprehensive about removing my door panel to change out the door handle ( chrome was flaking). It’s not hard at all. The hardest part was getting the power window trim out.
gotcha.. I am gonna check YouTube to see if they have any videos about it. I also hate breaking the plastic clips on the door panels . Thanks
 
how hard is it to remove the door panels on the 100 ? I havent even tried but I want to change the motors for the door locks , im just thinking about how long it is going to take me and I also dont want to break other parts while trying to fix some.. lol
It's actually really simple.

I followed this video when I did it my first time. Takes about 5 minutes in total now.

 
gotcha.. I am gonna check YouTube to see if they have any videos about it. I also hate breaking the plastic clips on the door panels . Thanks
The YouTube videos explain it pretty clearly.
 
Replaced drivers door seal, all wind noise is gone and it feels like a Lexus inside once again!
 
Sorry not a 100 series photo but I stumbled across this gem with the wife while on a day trip to Sisters, OR eating at an old saloon off the main road through town. We left the LC at home since it's quite a trip and we werent planning on doing any trailing that day (needed an alignment after the inner tie rod replacement).

We spotted another Defender earlier that day, but it was a 2 door version, super cool. I love that little town. It's up in the mountains and this is the main road connecting the other towns in the area so you see a lot of cool cars/rigs roll through.

Anyways, not too long ago I replaced my alternator and in the process had to remove the power steering reservoir. Well, I noticed the hoses at the reservoir started leaking so I pushed back to OE clamps and added some additional metal clamps. Hopefully this stops PS fluid leaking down/around and splattering all through the fender liner.

Additionally, when I cut the OE clamps on the inner tie rod steering rack I made the unfortunate discovery that my rack is shot and leaking fluid. The passenger side had a whole bottle of fluid leak out (no idea how long its been in there) and the driver side was a little less. Once I completed the inner tie rod replacement I sealed it off with zip ties but that was not enough to keep fluid from leaking out. Tonight I cut the zip ties and replaced with some metal clamps. Fingers crossed it holds up.

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Had a similar experience! Got two partially disabled 100s at home so decided to take our Sienna on the trip. Way more comfortable for the family of 5, holds a ton more cargo, a lot more fuel efficient and feels like a sports car when it comes to overtaking on two lane highways!
I have a renewed appreciation for my Sienna while I continue to sink more money on my princesses 😄
 
Packed and re-torqued the front wheel bearings, greased the drive shafts, ordered some coolant, hoses and heater t’s and have steering rack bushings showing up tomorrow. Installed a new brake booster motor last week and that’s been working out great.
 
One thing I noticed with single-stage paint method (which was the method used on our 100s) on plastic components is that they don’t hold up very well, they tend to oxidize and fade prematurely than the metal body panels or maybe the chemicals used I really dont know. That said, it was the front bumper after the side claddings:
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allowing the 2k clear to fully cure, next is mild cut and gloss using DA polisher then ceramic coat.

Front bumper rehab:
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will check again for surface imperfections and if need be filler/primer will be done again. Plan to use at least two coats of base since the front always takes the beating.
The reason those plastic panels wear more is because plastic holds a lot more heat than metal. Your car is a silver metallic....it’s not single stage paint. No metallic paint is single stage. That’s a fact.
 
Finally did something about my inoperable horns. After complaining about them not working for the umpteenth time my wife made a joke saying I probably didn’t need it because the people could hear me from the window. Anyways, I did some research and found a bunch of complaints about the factory horns being unimpressive. I looked at Hellas and a few other, but ended up with some factory JDM Premium horns. They’re very robust and sound great. Plug and play is the best part.

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Meant to ask this when I posted it- I’m thinking of tossing the running boards. I’ll never put them back on and I don’t plan on selling it. Will I regret tossing them?

I didn't. I kept them for a couple of years. They just took up space and collected dust. (who would want them?) So out they went. It was relief actually.
 

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