What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (57 Viewers)

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Good thing that isn't an Amazon Basics heating pad, it would probably catch fire ...

Burrrrrnnnnnn
 
247k pms in the works now.. 1.5hrs wrenching yielded to this:
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First things first.....

New kicks!

General Grabber 285/75r16 ATx

They are meaty and they are stuffed!!
Had to use the ole recip saw to get the OE running board off. Cutting wheel will finish the job here in a bit!!

Torsion bar level tomorrow........

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I wanted a rear mounted house battery setup but not take away usable space inside the vehicle. I added a house battery bank with 3x 16Ah LifePo4 batteries, a 400watt inverter, A Steca 8A solar MPPT charger into my truck. I snuck them behind the rear quarter interior panel where the (2nd) factory DVD player was. They ended up fitting perfectly in the cavity and I made a little battery box from some aluminum angle. In total these will give me about 615 watt-hours or 48 Ah of total house battery capacity. Not a huge amount, but enough to charge my drone, a laptop or two, run my fridge, and power any LED lights but most importantly will run an electric blanket all night! I probably won't use the solar input much if at all but since I had it I wired it in anyway. The battery bank can always be expanded if I figure a clever place to hide more batteries.

I chose Miady batteries as they were the cheapest LiFePo4s I found: https://amzn.to/2SBNJUo These batteries have build in BMS that manages cells, have over and under voltage protection, thermal protection, over current protection, charge protection, etc, etc. So basically I can just hook them all up together in parallel and forget about em! Also used a little fuse block to keep the wiring tidy.

I used a Blue Sea Systems fuse box to keep the wiring tidy and isolated from the vehicle 12v system: https://amzn.to/2GJolJt

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Added dynamat to the inside fender to block some noise since I'm opening this area up a little but also to prevent dents if the batteries move a little bit.

Dynamat: https://amzn.to/2FaEDKZ
#ad

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I used a Victron DC-DC charger and manually activated by a switch through a Bosch 75A relay. Also reorganized the area and modified the stock plastic shelf to hold the equipment a little nicer. In the future I want it to be automatically switched just not sure exactly how I want to accomplish that yet.

Victron DC-DC charger: Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion-Tr 12/12-18A (220W) Isolated DC-DC Converter: Car Electronics
Bosch 75 amp relay: Amazon.com: - Pins, 12 V, 75 A, Bosch 0332002168 Normal Open Power Relays: Automotive
Cool LED voltmeter gauge with built-in USB charger: Amazon.com: Digital Meter Panel, DROK 2pcs Automotive Voltmeter Battery Level Monitor, 5V 2A Dual USB Port LED Battery Electric Quantity Indicator Voltage Tester Volt Detector Multimeter for Auto Car: Industrial & Scientific

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All this and now I have reached my ultimate goal of.....ELECTRIC HEATING PAD!

Electrowarmth 12v heating pad: Amazon.com: Electrowarmth Twin, Heated Mattress Pad, Non-Fitted, Size 36 x 60, Model# T36 12V Used in Trucks, RVs, Campers: Automotive

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Love love love what you did. I went blunt force trauma with a diesel heater in the frame rail and a two gallon diesel tank under the hood. We're both gonna sleep warm this winter, but I'd love to figure out a way to do a bake off between efficiency, difficulty and cost of installs.
 
What sliders are you running? Is there enough of a ledge to step on to get in the cab?
WhiteKnuckle Sliders

yes, there's room. i stand up on it to get on roof and get into the vehicle..
 
Installed new Element extinguisher mounts from Solvefunction on eBay. (Edit, not eBay—Etsy) So secure—really like them.


I like this concept, but do questions its ability to extinguish a fuel fire of sorts. I'm not being critical to be critical....I tried to find an unbiased/non-sponsored video where they put out anything other than propane or "cold fires".

For something small, this would no doubt work, but I am curious if anyone has tested this on something that's really cooking?
The synthetic materials that most cars are made of burn a hell of a lot hotter than some paper in a bucket or a gas grill!

For the record, I want this to work! Big old ABC extinguishers take up a lot of room and don't last forever!
 
@ASFIR 4X4 came through with the super fast delivery. Will be a busy weekend. :)

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And another piece for the drawer build has arrived. Portable power for our Epic Field Trip (trying to make up for the lack of in person classes and field trips).

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After almost 2 years after scrapping the AHC, I finally replaced the rear sway bar. The LX version sway bar is 23.5 mm vs 25.2mm LC version. Thanks to rusty bolts it was a total schit show and took almost 2 hours! But it is done now. I won't know the difference until it is more loaded up for our next trip.
Next step is to replace the torsion bars.

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Changed the front and rear diff fluid and replaced the fill and drain plugs with parts from @NLXTACY. New OEM shocks front and rear, wow the rears suuuuck to replace. Drives like a totally different truck, not sure how I lived with that much body roll.
 
After almost 2 years after scrapping the AHC, I finally replaced the rear sway bar. The LX version sway bar is 23.5 mm vs 25.2mm LC version. Thanks to rusty bolts it was a total schit show and took almost 2 hours! But it is done now. I won't know the difference until it is more loaded up for our next trip.
Next step is to replace the torsion bars.

Please update your opinion on this when you get it out! Something i've thought about doing but have compensated by running the tough dog's a little stiffer (not equivalent I know). More curious then anything as I'm fairly happy with how she handles now the tough dog's and extended end links.
 
Replaced the OEM torsion bars with surprisingly meatier Ironman TBs. 32.5 mm vs 29.0 mm OEMs.
Last time when I was putting on the TBs, I slathered the splines in anti seize, 2 years later the TB came out without any fight at all! I was dreading that I might have to cut the TBs out like the last time but they moved easily with hand. Made the whole job easy :banana: . I also added the Ironman front LCA strengthening brackets but haven't drilled into the arm itself to bolt them on. Do these brackets do anything at all if I don't bolt them up to the arm?

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Replaced the OEM torsion bars with surprisingly meatier Ironman TBs. 32.5 mm vs 29.0 mm OEMs.
Last time when I was putting on the TBs, I slathered the splines in anti seize, 2 years later the TB came out without any fight at all! I was dreading that I might to cut the TBs out like last time but they moved easily with hand. Made the whole job easy :banana: . I also added the Ironman front LCA strengthening brackets but haven't drilled into the arm itself to bolt them on. Do these brackets do anything at all if I don't bolt them up to the arm?

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I installed them. I think they are ok. IIRC, I bolted up the torsion bracket first so those bolts would be properly aligned. Then I used some pointed vice grips or a clamp to press the part in this picture to lie flat against LCA. Then I drilled out the holes and installed the bolts. Final torque up of everything at the end.

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Finally got some time off after working overtime since this mess started, so tackled some maintenance:
-oil and filter (Mobil1 syn)
-diffs and t-case (amsoil severe duty)
-cleaned and oiled air filter
-lubed driveshaft & u-joints
-spark plugs (iridium twin tip)
-coils (denso)
-AT-205 into power steering, small leak is almost gone but hoping to punt replacement
-replaced front ds lock actuator (aisin assembly)
-heat shield on fuel lines near cat on ds
-wire wheel and fluid film frame and undercarriage
-annual wash, clay bar, wax
-vacuumed all the dog hair out of the interior
-washed engine bay (simple green and garden hose)
-replaced halogen fogs with LED on the ironman bumper
-rotated tires
-lubed window tracks (silicone lube)
-determined longer bolts are needed to install the @TRAIL TAILOR front recovery points with the ironman bumper

and some cosmetic upgrades:
-recovered steering wheel (loncky)
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-blacked out rear logos and installed new rear wiper
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-blacked out faded side trim and vents
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Certainly not for everyone, but I'm happy with the results.

Now to load up and get dirty again over the weekend!
 
Finally got some time off after working overtime since this mess started, so tackled some maintenance:
-oil and filter (Mobil1 syn)
-diffs and t-case (amsoil severe duty)
-cleaned and oiled air filter
-lubed driveshaft & u-joints
-spark plugs (iridium twin tip)
-coils (denso)
-AT-205 into power steering, small leak is almost gone but hoping to punt replacement
-replaced front ds lock actuator (aisin assembly)
-heat shield on fuel lines near cat on ds
-wire wheel and fluid film frame and undercarriage
-annual wash, clay bar, wax
-vacuumed all the dog hair out of the interior
-washed engine bay (simple green and garden hose)
-replaced halogen fogs with LED on the ironman bumper
-rotated tires
-lubed window tracks (silicone lube)
-determined longer bolts are needed to install the @TRAIL TAILOR front recovery points with the ironman bumper

and some cosmetic upgrades:
-recovered steering wheel (loncky)
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-blacked out rear logos and installed new rear wiper
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-blacked out faded side trim and vents
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Certainly not for everyone, but I'm happy with the results.

Now to load up and get dirty again over the weekend!
@JAntosch how do you lube the window tracks, and how did you black out the faded side trim? it looks really good!
 

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