What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (30 Viewers)

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New exhaust in action and testing at the dunes,
This thing is so much fun, but unfortunately lacks power!,:deadhorse: I have to rely on hauling ass (momentum) to get up most dunes. So I decided to rebuild the engine and upgrade it, head port and polish, JE larger pistons bored, stage 2 Crower camshafts, MOTEC M150 ECU. Work will start after the weekend.

 
Got my Spidertrax 1.25" spacers finally installed. It was purely for looks, but glad I did it.

Thanks to Slee Offroad Betty looks so much better.

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New exhaust in action and testing at the dunes,
This thing is so much fun, but unfortunately lacks power!,:deadhorse: I have to rely on hauling ass (momentum) to get up most dunes. So I decided to rebuild the engine and upgrade it, head port and polish, JE larger pistons bored, stage 2 Crower camshafts, MOTEC M150 ECU. Work will start after the weekend.



Nice!!! I think I heard a throttle blip around the 8 sec mark too!
 
After my usual bloodletting ceremony, I replaced the driver's front window regulator and motor Now automatic up and down and pinch works as it should. The old motor has been on its last leg since I bought the LX in January. I had a new motor and regulator waiting for the day when finally gave up.

Now I need to figure out how to replace the door lock actuator motor while I have the door card off.
What was your symptoms to replace the regulator and motor, how hard was it, what brand replacement did you use?
 
Lost my side view mirror on the highway... Not cool when I have a safety inspection in 10 days! Lexus quoted my $571 just for the mirror itself :rofl:.

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eBay is your friend for this part. I just got the glass with backing mount or my driver's mirror for $76.00. Should be the same for your repair just make sure you get one with the heating elements. Then it's as simple as (1) plug-in the new mirror heating wires (2) clip in the new mirror (3) pat yourself on the back. One :banana:
 
What was your symptoms to replace the regulator and motor, how hard was it, what brand replacement did you use?
The motor was laboring to the point where it would barely move the window until it completely stopped in the up position. The old motor will not run after I removed it with no load.

II don't usually recommend an aftermarket part until I've run it for 2 or 3 years or the cost is less than $50. I did follow the installation instructions to run the motor in the up position and hold it for 10 seconds before installing it. Also I made sure the old regulator was exactly as the same notch tooth position as the new with motor installed and the motor has been run to stop at the full up position. I cycled the motor several times after installation. It all seems to work now.

While this is not a recommendation, I am running a NEW Cardone motor with a TYC regulator from RockAuto. I have seen issues with rebuilt Cardone motors reported here. I have had success with an ACI motor on my Tacoma. This will be the first time for me to use a NEW Cardone motor on a Toyota. The TYC regulator seems to be ok.

Replacing the regulator and motor was easier than some of my other "smaller" cars. Once the motor and regulator was positioned on the window tabs (in my case the full up position), it is much easier to insert the bolts and tighten after the window is lowered to a point where accessing the bolts through open holes in the door.

It seems to never fail that within a year after I buy a project car, that the driver window motor fails.

Most of my other window regulators replacement are cable driven affairs with plastic tabs that wear out along with the motor. Since I ordered the parts a month before the old motor finally gave up, I didn't know the condition of the regulator before hand. I could have gotten by without changing the regulator.

I can tell you how I really like it in a couple of years. :)
 
morimoto HB LED install. NO cutting of the reflector required except you must drill the one piece LC lights to 22mm hole size. They're polorised unlike the 2 stroke but they work the same with with a 7ohm resistor and the led harness if DTRL is a concern. Good looking LEDs for high beams without too much fuss.

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Can you share were you picked up the parts to build?


All you need is a pair of conduit hangers from Lowes (diameter will depend on where they're being attached), 3/4" carriage bolts to attach the tool hanger to the conduit hanger, and lock nuts for all carriage bolts (including the ones that come with the conduit hangers). Hope that makes sense, it's pretty straight forward. Oh - and some black spray paint :).

The hanger does tend to slide when metal on metal (mine is a hair too large for what I needed - I have 1" and should have used 3/4" conduit hangers), so I added some electrical tape on the inside lining of the conduit hanger to add a little friction and seems to have helped.

DIY recovery tread holders are next.

Link for conduit hanger example: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Elec...RbT05IITdhAT_zGtirwaAsGyEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
I had to half drop my rear axle to replace a blown Airlift airbag. That's two blowouts in six months. Can't say I recommend them anymore.

I have the same bags no issues so far. Any idea why they are blowing?
 
I have the same bags no issues so far. Any idea why they are blowing?
One blew while testing after installation. Probably defective out of the box. The 2nd blew in 120F heat at 30psi while towing. Perhaps the heat was too much?
 
Got my Spidertrax 1.25" spacers finally installed. It was purely for looks, but glad I did it.

Thanks to Slee Offroad Betty looks so much better.

Nice, what size tires are you running?
 
One blew while testing after installation. Probably defective out of the box. The 2nd blew in 120F heat at 30psi while towing. Perhaps the heat was too much?

Possibly.. installed to tow a trailer from TN to TX a few months ago. Mine have been holding @ 7PSI since then. Will keep a lookout when I tow again.
 

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