What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (44 Viewers)

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$20 LED interior light install. Night and day transformation IMO.. I'm happy.

Stock (Orange Ambient):
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LED's (Bright White):
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Going to find some time to change out the license plate lights and glove box light...
 
Forgot to post this. A while back I had a friend of mine help me with replacing front bearings, sway bar links, pads and rotors all around and put on a set of rebuilt front calipers. During the rear brake install we found the passenger side bearing was bad. So I decided to buy two new rear bearings. Long story short, these bearings are not meant to come out, at least that’s how it felt. They took my friends press to its absolute limit, and he had to fabricate a tool to get the job done.
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No lift right now.

285/75/16 Toyo AT2’s. I’m getting @CatskillsRunner 2nd hands....

She’s getting new Toyo MTs.


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Using the "buy the wife upgrades, and I get the hand-me-downs" method, will probably pass the "wife approval" process fairly easily, but it could make for a very expensive build. :) It's probably a good thing that you have "connections"!
 
Added some leftover bits from the Apollo program to keep the A/C happy after DT headers were installed last week.
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I'm not sure how it will do in the low and slow stuff, but it seems I have working AC again. Underneath the wrap I tried reflective tape, but it didn't seem to do anything at all. AC would start out fine while the engine was cold, and gradually lose its ability to cool the air.

This is the stuff: Heat Shroud GOLD™ - 2-2.5" x 3', only I got one for 36" long (too long, easy to cut) and meant to hold something up to 1.25".
 
Added some leftover bits from the Apollo program to keep the A/C happy after DT headers were installed last week.
View attachment 2305665

I'm not sure how it will do in the low and slow stuff, but it seems I have working AC again. Underneath the wrap I tried reflective tape, but it didn't seem to do anything at all. AC would start out fine while the engine was cold, and gradually lose its ability to cool the air.

This is the stuff: Heat Shroud GOLD™ - 2-2.5" x 3', only I got one for 36" long (too long, easy to cut) and meant to hold something up to 1.25".
Nice work

Is this common after DT headers are installed ?
 
@Onur and @CatskillsRunner I think it’s badass to see you guys both being so into these Land Cruisers. By the way the 105 grills on your trucks look great!

Thanks. I’ve been doing LCs for a long, long time now.

That said, I’m just the “procurement specialist” and labor for this truck. The vehicle “build” so to speak is all my wife.

We want to make it mechanically tip-top and maybe some slight/tasteful mods and keep the rest pretty much stock for now. She has her built 2007. And I have a built 70 series. So having a “kinda” stocker around is not a bad thing.
 
Thanks. I’ve been doing LCs for a long, long time now.

That said, I’m just the “procurement specialist” and labor for this truck. The vehicle “build” so to speak is all my wife.

We want to make it mechanically tip-top and maybe some slight/tasteful mods and keep the rest pretty much stock for now. She has her built 2007. And I have a built 70 series. So having a “kinda” stocker around is not a bad thing.

@Onur I have been meaning to ask, if you would consider sharing a parts list for what you consider necessary for baselining your new to you 100 series? Either a part numbers list or even just the names of the parts would do.

I think it would be immensely helpful to new and veteran owners alike.

I know I have stumbled through making the fixes to my truck in first 2 years of ownership and made the mistake of spending my money on some "upgrades" before taking care of what I later learned to be essential fixes.
 
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@Onur I have been meaning to ask, if you would consider sharing a parts list for what you consider necessary for baselining your new to you 100 series? Either a part numbers list or even just the names of the parts would do.

I think it would be immensely helpful to new and veteran owners alike.

I know I have stumbled through making the fixes to my truck in first 2 years of ownership and made the mistake of spending my money on some "upgrades" before taking care of what I later learned to be essential fixes.

Nothing really rocket science about it.

My formula is always the following with any old LC 100 series trucks:

1. All fluids flushed out.
2. All rubber pieces in engine bay replaced.
3. All filters replaced.
4. All body rubber pieces replaced (weatherstripping, belt mouldings, window runs)
5. All switches tested operational. If not, replace.
6. For a timing belt engine like the 2UZ-FE: replace timing belt, water pump, all spinning/rotating assemblies.
7. Drive belt and all rotating assemblies
8. Radiator and cooling system (new fan clutch, hoses, thermostat, oil cooler hoses etc.)
9. Front bearing job along with front brakes (rotors, calipers, pads)
10. All soft brake lines.
11. Rear brake job (rotors, calipers, pads)
12. Front and rear sway bar bushings/hardware.
13. Rear upper, lower control arm bushings/hardware, rear panhard bushings and hardware.
14. All transmission cooler hoses.
15. Heater T's and applicable hoses/clamps.
16. New battery and necessary hardware.
17. New battery positive terminal.
18. Replace all soft fuel lines.
19. Replace O2 and air-fuel ratio sensors
20. Front upper and lower control arm bushings and hardware.
21. All e-brake pads and associated springs, pins, bolts, brackets, etc.

That's about it. I only use OEM parts unless an aftermarket part option has been proven to be a better long term QDR option.
 
Nothing really rocket science about it.

My formula is always the following with any old LC 100 series trucks:

1. All fluids flushed out.
2. All rubber pieces in engine bay replaced.
3. All filters replaced.
4. All body rubber pieces replaced (weatherstripping, belt mouldings, window runs)
5. All switches tested operational. If not, replace.
6. For a timing belt engine like the 2UZ-FE: replace timing belt, water pump, all spinning/rotating assemblies.
7. Drive belt and all rotating assemblies
8. Radiator and cooling system (new fan clutch, hoses, thermostat, oil cooler hoses etc.)
9. Front bearing job along with front brakes (rotors, calipers, pads)
10. All soft brake lines.
11. Rear brake job (rotors, calipers, pads)
12. Front and rear sway bar bushings/hardware.
13. Rear upper, lower control arm bushings/hardware, rear panhard bushings and hardware.
14. All transmission cooler hoses.
15. Heater T's and applicable hoses/clamps.
16. New battery and necessary hardware.
17. New battery positive terminal.
18. Replace all soft fuel lines.
19. Replace O2 and air-fuel ratio sensors
20. Front upper and lower control arm bushings and hardware.
21. All e-brake pads and associated springs, pins, bolts, brackets, etc.

That's about it. I only use OEM parts unless an aftermarket part option has been proven to be a better long term QDR option.

That quite a list. Thanks for sharing.
Couple of follow up questions if you don't mind: 1) Do you consider fuel pump and evap canister part of PM? 2) Are you concerned about the electric brake booster and accumulator failing?
 
Oh yeah forgot I installed 2865 springs and cranked the t-bars today's. Loving the ride
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