What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (37 Viewers)

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I have been collecting parts for my 98 and finally got around to installing OME front shocks, OME 865 springs, Tough Dog rear shocks, sway bar bushings, and I adjust torsion bars.
Now the fun part. I went to back it off of this pad and it started fine, rolled about 15 feet back ( and up an incline) and it stalled. Turns over, but will not start.
I thought weak battery so I replaced.
My security light goes off when I insert key.
I have checked the 20 AMP EMI fuse.
I ordered and picking up fuel filter today.
Any ideas? The timing just feels odd with first sign of issue right after the suspension work. I sure bumped into the rear brake sensor wires (?) a lot that run up by the top shock mount. Could it be a grounding issue? It's my daily driver so this has been a pain.
Any thoughts appreciated?
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I have been collecting parts for my 98 and finally got around to installing OME front shocks, OME 865 springs, Tough Dog rear shocks, sway bar bushings, and I adjust torsion bars.
Now the fun part. I went to back it off of this pad and it started fine, rolled about 15 feet back ( and up an incline) and it stalled. Turns over, but will not start.
I thought weak battery so I replaced.
My security light goes off when I insert key.
I have checked the 20 AMP EMI fuse.
I ordered and picking up fuel filter today.
Any ideas? The timing just feels odd with first sign of issue right after the suspension work. I sure bumped into the rear brake sensor wires (?) a lot that run up by the top shock mount. Could it be a grounding issue? It's my daily driver so this has been a pain.
Any thoughts appreciated?
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If it turns over then your battery and starter are doing their job. As we all know you need three things for the engine to start: gas, spark and compression. Let's assume there was no drastic change to the compression due to suspension upgrade 🤓 . For the other two, I'd start with the basics first:
1) Have you got gas in the tank?
2) Is the fuel pump relay connected and "clicking" on when you turn the key to on. Find the relay here behind the driver side rear quarter panel above the jack storage spot:
3) Are you getting fuel pressure on the fuel rail (borrow a fuel pressure gauge at the local parts store)
4) If you got gas to the engine then you can start troubleshooting for the spark (look up spark testing here)
 
If it turns over then your battery and starter are doing their job. As we all know you need three things for the engine to start: gas, spark and compression. Let's assume there was no drastic change to the compression due to suspension upgrade 🤓 . For the other two, I'd start with the basics first:
1) Have you got gas in the tank?
2) Is the fuel pump relay connected and "clicking" on when you turn the key to on. Find the relay here behind the driver side rear quarter panel above the jack storage spot:
3) Are you getting fuel pressure on the fuel rail (borrow a fuel pressure gauge at the local parts store)
4) If you got gas to the engine then you can start troubleshooting for the spark (look up spark testing here)

Thank you @ClassyJalopy I figured the suspension upgrade was a stretch, but I did crawl back under to see if I might have messed something up that could cause a grounding issue. I am a novice at best.
I will run through this list when I get home this evening and grab a fuel pressure gauge while picking up the fuel filter.
Thanks again.
 
If you had a the car jacked one way or the other and we're hitting bolts with an impact, the vibration could stir up the gunk/dirt/rust in the fuel filter clogging it up. Would explain why it started and then died.
 
If you had a the car jacked one way or the other and we're hitting bolts with an impact, the vibration could stir up the gunk/dirt/rust in the fuel filter clogging it up. Would explain why it started and then died.
I went up and down a lot between the shocks/springs and adjusting t-bars. Hopefully it will be this easy!
 
I have been collecting parts for my 98 and finally got around to installing OME front shocks, OME 865 springs, Tough Dog rear shocks, sway bar bushings, and I adjust torsion bars.
Now the fun part. I went to back it off of this pad and it started fine, rolled about 15 feet back ( and up an incline) and it stalled. Turns over, but will not start.
I thought weak battery so I replaced.
My security light goes off when I insert key.
I have checked the 20 AMP EMI fuse.
I ordered and picking up fuel filter today.
Any ideas? The timing just feels odd with first sign of issue right after the suspension work. I sure bumped into the rear brake sensor wires (?) a lot that run up by the top shock mount. Could it be a grounding issue? It's my daily driver so this has been a pain.
Any thoughts appreciated?
View attachment 2304801
Those black rhino wheels looks sick!!! Debating if I really want to deal with buying the oem Steelies and deal with getting them powder coated or just scoop these
 
Finally replaced the steering rack bushings with Whiteline polyurethane ones. 260K miles and the rear bushing was still mostly ok. The big D bushing was compressed but still in one piece. The front small bushing was positively knackered. It was allowing the steering rack to move about and was the source of my clunk every time I came to full stop. A short test drive confirmed that steering is much more firm (no more meandering) and clunk is gone!

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Those black rhino wheels looks sick!!! Debating if I really want to deal with buying the oem Steelies and deal with getting them powder coated or just scoop these
Thanks @Pucker5 , I have been happy with them. I like the spacing and the black and gunmetal tie nicely with the body and trim. They are heavy, but so are steelies.
 
I did what probably 90% of new 100 series owners do and took the running boards off my new to me LX470

 
Progress! Got the new bushings in, axle in and everything reassembled and torqued to spec. That was a lot of work! Its going to be rainy the next few days, so I'm going to take my time working on the driver's side.

The hardest part of reassembling everything was getting the LCA connected to the frame. The new poly bushings are very tough and I had to coax the arm into its correct position with a second floor jack with a few 2x4s stacked on it. Getting the new axle in was quite easy; I used the 2x4/hammer method to seat the inboard c-clip, then gave it a good solid shove with my hands and it popped right in. Putting the knuckle into the axle and upper/lower ball joints was a pain just due to how heavy everything is.

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Installed some additional lighting on the rear hatch to see in to the rear cargo area and tailgate.

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Grille looks right at home.

Did you replace the headlight housings as well?

I priced out some door surround foam once and that stuff was close to the price of gold. You’ve got quite the investment there.

No need to replace headlight housings. 105 grilled is direct fit
 
No need to replace headlight housings. 105 grilled is direct fit
Yeah the grille is awesome.

I was more wondering because of how clear the lenses on both the headlights and fog lights looked on an 18 year old rig. Figured since you were replacing everything else those might’ve been new as well.

Best mod so far is clearly the snorkel... 😜

I’m really interested to see if you’ll go 285 or 295 on those 16’s that are crossing the country. Come on 295s... Toyo makes them!... AT3s?

Any future Suspension, other mods?

Keep the updates coming🍿
 
Yeah the grille is awesome.

I was more wondering because of how clear the lenses on both the headlights and fog lights looked on an 18 year old rig. Figured since you were replacing everything else those might’ve been new as well.

Best mod so far is clearly the snorkel... 😜

I’m really interested to see if you’ll go 285 or 295 on those 16’s that are crossing the country. Come on 295s... Toyo makes them!... AT3s?

Any future Suspension, other mods?

Keep the updates coming🍿

No lift right now.

285/75/16 Toyo AT2’s. I’m getting @CatskillsRunner 2nd hands....

She’s getting new Toyo MTs.


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