What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (41 Viewers)

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Got it on a nice level area and I think it was the last picture doing some ****ery to make it look that off. It’s about an inch. Not exactly perfect, but nothing is
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Wrapped up the fog light wiring and then adjusted the torsion bars to get back the front Smash the bumper and winch gave me.

Before

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This is fully extended. I had almost 6” droop on the OEM shocks (which are fairly new)

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After. Came up 2” in the front. It took max adjustment on the driver side. Passenger has about 1” left but it was siting higher

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Looks good. Tires and alignment next and this one will be done for a while.
 
Mines got major flutter on the highway, makes people think its open. Were you following a write up you found or just replacing weatherstripping?


My hood bracing had seperated from the hood, causing the sheet metal in the middle to "wave" when driving above 55mph. So I used the prybar to hold the bracing closer to the hood and applied an auto body flexible foam in between the brace and hood. Flutter eliminated.
 
Recently installed the TJM T17 bumper and winch plate, and also a Smittybilt 10k winch. While I was at it, I replaced the fender liner for the passenger side that my tire chewed up on a recent road trip. All in all, a pretty fun project with only a few oh SH*$ moments!
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The final part of the project is waiting for access to a bench grinder - installing some LED lights in the holes to either side of the license plate that will wire into my fog lamps (or a separate switch if too bright).
 
My hood bracing had seperated from the hood, causing the sheet metal in the middle to "wave" when driving above 55mph. So I used the prybar to hold the bracing closer to the hood and applied an auto body flexible foam in between the brace and hood. Flutter eliminated.
I have a very similar issue. Care to provide a pic of where exactly you put the foam??
 
I have a very similar issue. Care to provide a pic of where exactly you put the foam??


Once you remove the fiberglass under hood liner, you’ll see exactly where you need to use adhesive. You’re going to put flexible adhesive between the hood skin and the under hood bracing. You’ll see the old adhesive spots. What happens is over all the years of hot and cold, the old body adhesive dries out and separates from the hood. You’ll notice a very “tinny” metal on metal rattle when you close the hood.

Go ahead and buy 10 new liner clips from Toyota, they’re about $1 each.
 
Over the course of a couple of weekend afternoons. Finally got cool enough to work in the garage
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Replaced the auxiliary battery with one that made the fit even tighter :bang: and had to relocate the relay and extend some 4 g wires etc. PIA to be honest
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Upgraded my shocks today. Threw out the OME sports and replaced them with Tough Dog. I added the Ralph 53 on the front and the 45 adjustables in the rear. The ride is amazing, so much I had forgotten how well a LC could ride. Best mod I have done thus far!!

Front size comparison:
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Rear size comparison:
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If you are upgrading your suspension do yourself a favor and get a ToughDog setup through Jason @TRAIL TAILOR. The difference in the ride is more than I could ever put into words. Thanks as always for your advice Jason!
 
Nomination for the worst directions from a large company goes to

ARB for the 100 series bumper.

Total s*** show. Do yourself a favor and find a good write up on Mud to follow.

6 hard head scratching hours later





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Having the right manual might help....
(that's the manual for ARB 3413190 which is for 2003+ landcruisers)
 
Having the right manual might help....
(that's the manual for ARB 3413190 which is for 2003+ landcruisers)

The trucks are the same. It’s not the year difference that was the problem.

It was the s***ty instructions.....
 
Removed, greased, and replaced front sway bar bushings to stop an obnoxious creak from the front end. Quick lap around the block and still creaking. :bang:

Fixed with a generous spray of this stuff on the upper control arm bushings!

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The springs will settle some over the first couple of weeks. My 864’s sure did. Wait a couple weeks, then see where it settles in. Rake will be fine. Too much t-bar without a diff drop and you’ll get cv vibration.

Mine might be on verge of this. Just got it rebooted at a local shop. I’m getting vibration at highway speeds. Sounds about right? Need a diff drop?
 
If you didn’t have the vibration prior to cranking the torsion bars then it is very likely the increased angle that is causing the vibration at highway speeds. Sounds exactly like what I went through. Got the diff drop from Slee and the vibration was reduced by 95%. There is still a hint of it, but nothing like it was without the diff drop.
 
Fuel Pump died out on a Trail, scrambled for a Fuel motor kit to revive the Cruiser at campsite.
This is quite ironic to see a Landy pulling a cruiser. Hopefully you made it home ok.
I see the SoFlo sticker - are you running their bumpers etc?
 
Mine might be on verge of this. Just got it rebooted at a local shop. I’m getting vibration at highway speeds. Sounds about right? Need a diff drop?
If you didn’t have the vibration prior to cranking the torsion bars then it is very likely the increased angle that is causing the vibration at highway speeds. Sounds exactly like what I went through. Got the diff drop from Slee and the vibration was reduced by 95%. There is still a hint of it, but nothing like it was without the diff drop.
 
This is quite ironic to see a Landy pulling a cruiser. Hopefully you made it home ok.
I see the SoFlo sticker - are you running their bumpers etc?
SOFLO4WD is my local 4wd club. but i do run a soflo roof rack since he is local to me. that landy is part of our club, we are a mixed bunch of jeeps, rovers, toyotas... there was 12 of us on this trip.
 
upgraded my trailer hitch with an appropriate decal.


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Edit: added link to sticker
 
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