What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (22 Viewers)
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Any photos of the rear view camera POV?
Got back today from best camping trip of the year so far with @kasassy . We each drove a couple hours to Lake George; me from the Catskills and she from VT. Had an island all to ourselves for three days, and even tho the weather was interesting on our first day we still had fun when we had to hunker down. Probably paddled 30 miles all told. Great start to the summer!
On 1998 and 1999 LandCruisers and LX470s, the CDL (center diff lock) is automatically engaged in 4Lo. The Pin7 mod simply unhooks the connection in one of the ECUs behind the glovebox so that you can manually select to engage the CDL. This means you can run in 4Lo without the CDL engaged and press the CDL button to manually engage it like you would in 4Hi.
2000 and newer cruisers already have the CDL manually selectable in 4Lo.
Finally wrapped installation of Trail Tailor rear light mounts. Going to make setting up camp in the dark much easier!
Going to be driving around Zion - Monument Valley - Arches - Grand Tetons over the next few weeks. Any recommendations on easy “off road” experiences that I could take the kids and the LX on? I’m comfortable on access roads and easy terrain, but don’t have experience with difficult terrain or any good recovery gear if I get in a jam. Just looking for some fun short drives to see cool stuff.
Going to be driving around Zion - Monument Valley - Arches - Grand Tetons over the next few weeks. Any recommendations on easy “off road” experiences that I could take the kids and the LX on? I’m comfortable on access roads and easy terrain, but don’t have experience with difficult terrain or any good recovery gear if I get in a jam. Just looking for some fun short drives to see cool stuff.
installed a roof rack and shook it out with a trail run
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
What LED tails are those? Do they cause any lights on your dash or cause the turn signals to flash fast?
I need some clarification here... What speeds are you having transmission temps at?
From your previous posts I'm guessing the trans is only getting hot when you're at lower speeds? If so, you should be in low range specifically for this reason. At lower speeds, it doesn't have anything at all to do with TC lock up, but with the amount of slip (i.e. friction and heat) you're forcing the transmission to do by "lugging" it in high range. You need to take advantage of the gearing of low range.
Towing off road in low range is no big deal at all as long as your speeds are low. If you're in 3rd or 4th gear in low range, you need to shift back to high range. Also, unless you need the extra traction, there is no reason not to run in low range with the CDL unlocked - less bind and less wear/tear.
Towing on the highway (at highway speeds) needs to be (and is only physically possible) in high range.
The CDL being locked or unlocked will have no effect on your transmission temps. Also, the CDL has nothing at all to do with the gearing in the transfer case - locking the CDL simply changes the function of your AWD transfer case (i.e. slip between the front and rear drive shafts) to that of a part time t-case that's been put in 4-high (front and rear drive shafts turn at same speed no matter what).
Window nets
Totally understand the purpose of the CDL and that it has zero impact on trans temps. My 98 auto-locks the CDL in 4Lo and I don't want that. I want to use 4Lo without creating unnecessary binding on the drivetrain in situations where the extra grip isn't necessary. Saw elevated temps on short off-road climbs (4Lo did produce lower temps and that makes sense to me). Also saw temps over 200 while climbing a longer highway hill at 60mph in 3rd with OD off. I tried to hold the pedal to keep the TC locked, but it would continually slip and temps would rise again. Really takes a lot of pedal modulation to keep the TC locked while climbing at highway speeds with OD off. In Texas, that's not that big a deal as our climbs are no more than a mile long, mostly below 2000ft and fairly shallow. That will become something entirely different in CO where climbs can me 10 miles long (or longer), 6000ft and higher and 7%+ grades.
Decided the trailer needed some rock flaps as well. Bought some heavy rubber 18x24 flaps and broke out the 5/16 drill bit. Probably overkill, but the bolts to attach the flaps are Grade8
Then, went on another Hill Country off-road shakedown. Trailer performed flawlessly. LX had a few hiccups with trans temps on off-road climbs (hit 213 on the trans temp at one point - see last pic). Hopefully the manual torque lock converter I'm getting will help address this. The temp fell off rapidly once I'd get to the top of the hill and begin steady cruising.
Anyway, next step for me is to start welding up some additional crossbars on the rack, awning mounts and devise a better way to manually lift and lower the rack (lower for transport and getting in the garage - raise for camping). Since I'll be adding on 4 removable sidewind trailer jacks to the trailer, I'm thinking of welding on 4 more of the pipe mounts a little higher to the corners of the trailer and then weld on some "feet" to each of the 4 vertical legs of the tent rack. My vision would be to be able to mount the trailer jacks inverted on the pipe mounts and crank against the "feet" that are welded to the vertical legs to raise the tent rack (would have to go around to each corner a little at a time) and then secure with a Grade 8 thru-bolt. Hopefully that all makes sense. I only need to lower/raise the tent rack approximately 9".
With the recent HVAC system failure at my house, I've had to reallocate a few grand of upgrade budget towards fixing thatSo, my grand plan for full onboard electrical with linear actuators, side boxes, sidemounted spare and a new top will have to go on temporary hold.
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We got twinsies!
This doesn't sound right, I have this trailer its a "light" trailer and have zero struggles with towing it or transmission temperatures in high incline highways and super steep offroad up hills. I only put it on 4lo in heavy offroad climbs but even then I don' t think I saw temp reach that. I've towed much bigger trailers but this one should give the cruiser no sweat. I don't even notice its back there 95% of the time, only when I'm braking slightly feel it then.
I would check the normal stuff, then if it continues get a bigger cooler.
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What kind of buffing wax did you use? took that dent right out!
This was my secret sauce:
Trimmed the mudflaps. I actually pulled the first one off to get a good look at how I wanted to cut it. Initially wanted the part that buts up to the underside of the bumper to be totally flat but it was going to be difficult to make it look good. Looking at the little baby flap that's left, it is no lower than the muffler so if I'm scraping that, it's muffler delete and bumper time. For the second flap I just used a hooked utility knife and a bit of patience to trim it without removing--much faster. I was actually surprised how much better the truck looks now.
Wait.... Which one is your tranny fluid temp? My scan gauge displays as TFT.Decided the trailer needed some rock flaps as well. Bought some heavy rubber 18x24 flaps and broke out the 5/16 drill bit. Probably overkill, but the bolts to attach the flaps are Grade8
Then, went on another Hill Country off-road shakedown. Trailer performed flawlessly. LX had a few hiccups with trans temps on off-road climbs (hit 213 on the trans temp at one point - see last pic). Hopefully the manual torque lock converter I'm getting will help address this. The temp fell off rapidly once I'd get to the top of the hill and begin steady cruising.
Anyway, next step for me is to start welding up some additional crossbars on the rack, awning mounts and devise a better way to manually lift and lower the rack (lower for transport and getting in the garage - raise for camping). Since I'll be adding on 4 removable sidewind trailer jacks to the trailer, I'm thinking of welding on 4 more of the pipe mounts a little higher to the corners of the trailer and then weld on some "feet" to each of the 4 vertical legs of the tent rack. My vision would be to be able to mount the trailer jacks inverted on the pipe mounts and crank against the "feet" that are welded to the vertical legs to raise the tent rack (would have to go around to each corner a little at a time) and then secure with a Grade 8 thru-bolt. Hopefully that all makes sense. I only need to lower/raise the tent rack approximately 9".
With the recent HVAC system failure at my house, I've had to reallocate a few grand of upgrade budget towards fixing that
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I named mine TRA
THanks, did these work for you, description says to 19" high, ours is 21" top of frame to bottom of moulding.
Replaced the damaged at Poughkepsie on The Wall rear driveshaft / propeller shaft about 3 weeks ago. When it was damaged it got scratched really bad but only had a mad vibration past about 68 mph so I kept putting it off and just driving slower.
Amazing difference in stop/start ride now. Dreaded "clunk" is all but gone. I can feel some slop in the motor/diff/? mounts and maybe the front flanges but really hardly any. The old u-joints were seriously shot. Arrived with surface scratches like that, not packaged from oemgenuineparts.com all that well.
Cheers!
rjones
Amazing difference in stop/start ride now. Dreaded "clunk" is all but gone. I can feel some slop in the motor/diff/? mounts and maybe the front flanges but really hardly any. The old u-joints were seriously shot. Arrived with surface scratches like that, not packaged from oemgenuineparts.com all that well.
Cheers!
rjones
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