What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (28 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

E50D59E3-450D-4A9A-9E27-CBD6221D5397.jpeg
Transfer Case, Front and Rear diff fluid change. Transfer and Front looked ok. Rear did not.
 
Here is why I am not too happy, going to have to return for a rebalance.

50 mph vibes



Definitely not the tires fault. I have the same tires in 295/70/18 and they are the best times I've ever owned by a long shot (KO1, dura tracs, bfg muds, good year muds, TSL radials, etc)

Hopefully it's just a rebalance and not a rim or bearing issue.
 
The kids were napping and I couldn't leave the house so thought I'd knock out two projects.

One was the mud flap delete. Just used a bow handsaw and cut away.

The other was tinting the taillights and getting rid of all the red on the truck

(red ARB sticker removed, red SCS wheel decals removed, red warn "w" now black, red warn wire covered with black sleeve, lights & reflectors tinted)

Before:

image.jpeg


Ignore the swingout on the back - future project and a temporary fix for this guy:

image.jpeg


When I have an extra $3k laying around :flush: I'll pick up a rear bumper with swingouts.

After:

image.jpeg


Didn't have the bumper reflectors installed in this pic but tinted them as well.

You may notice this little guy hanging down:

image.jpeg


The OEM trailer plug had corroded so I had an aftermarket one wired into the factory harness.

Not thrilled with its location. Not only will it get ripped off on the first 10ft of the trail - I'm sure a pretty inclined driveway will snatch it off.

Any relocation suggestions???
 
I’d tuck it up behind the bumper, out of the way of the spare. Then make or order yourself a short, 2’ max, female to male extension. Once you’ve tucked it, I doubt most wiring coming from the trailer will be long enough to reach it and maintain the full turning radius, thus the need for an extension.
 
Mother's day, so right before we are supposed to go to dinner I have this guy fretting over my truck.
IMG_20180513_161007878.jpg

Then I schooled him about engines.

He said: "you're not due for a TB for a little while longer."

I said: "you have to be careful; this is an interference engine."

"Oh yeah? Someone's been doing some reading on Mud. What does that mean, exactly?"

I explained in a very scholarly manner: "Something could break and then go flying off and hit something else and then that breaks and then you're fxxxed!"
 
I’d tuck it up behind the bumper, out of the way of the spare. Then make or order yourself a short, 2’ max, female to male extension. Once you’ve tucked it, I doubt most wiring coming from the trailer will be long enough to reach it and maintain the full turning radius, thus the need for an extension.

Excellent suggestion. The extension is the answer I was looking for.
 
Installed bi-xenon conversion 06-07 headlights onto my 1999. These are the OEM headlights. I wanted to retain the 99 grille so I had to do some fender trimming and grille cutting. Conversion was done by Lightwerkz (highly recommended).
Oh, and I also blacked out the grille with plasti dip.

lonecruiser-HID.jpg
 
Installed bi-xenon conversion 06-07 headlights onto my 1999. These are the OEM headlights. I wanted to retain the 99 grille so I had to do some fender trimming and grille cutting. Conversion was done by Lightwerkz (highly recommended).
Oh, and I also blacked out the grille with plasti dip.

View attachment 1700094

awesome, if you don't me asking how much did they charge you?
 
Mother's day, so right before we are supposed to go to dinner I have this guy fretting over my truck. View attachment 1699927
Then I schooled him about engines.

He said: "you're not due for a TB for a little while longer."

I said: "you have to be careful; this is an interference engine."

"Oh yeah? Someone's been doing some reading on Mud. What does that mean, exactly?"

I explained in a very scholarly manner: "Something could break and then go flying off and hit something else and then that breaks and then you're ****ed!"

There is actually a bit of discussion on whether or not the 2UZ-FE is really an interference engine.... Seems that pre VVTi it isn't interference, and post VVTi it *might* be interference. Do some searching, I couldn't ever find a report of a T-belt failure resulting in valves kissing pistons.
 
Alternator crapped out at the baseball fields on Saturday... Judging by the dirt it is the original with 156,000 on it... Fast charged the battery to get home and got the part picked up yesterday... It's tight as hell getting to that alternator btw... :bang:
 
Tweaks and fixes the new rig keep coming, and new problems do, too. Nothing huge is happening on either front, but it's all good. This week's work includes maintenance by a local shop, fixing an electrical mistake I made, meeting members of a local TLCA club, finding more work after removing my rig's air deflector (pictures linked) and adding a few more things to my to-do list. I've chronicled these developments here

State of the LC, 14 May 2018 | The Cold Fish

for my own amusement and poor memory.
 
A few big changes to the rig. Kind of unexpected too. First off, got lucky and was able to purchase a BIOR rear bumper off a fellow mudder who had totaled his previous LX. Used a plasma torch to cut the notch and then bolted it right up. Fantastic construction on the bumper. There are a few rust spots (bumper is 4 years old), but the swingouts work perfectly. Got hold of a matching spare wheel and added a 60" Hi Lift Extreme jack and ground plate to complete. Scepter water and gas cans inbound.

Added a new sticker!

Replaced the Group24 Duralast battery with a Napa Legend 75 Group 49 battery.....990 CCA and 185 reserve. This thing is a monster. Turns over on the first crank with no issues....pictures coming.

IMG_1273.JPG


IMG_1274.JPG


IMG_1291.JPG


IMG_1292.JPG
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom