What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (61 Viewers)

[geanes]

View attachment 1682881 Went to black powder coated wheels I got off CL for $200. Should have done this a long time ago.

As Wesley Snipes said in Passenger 57: Always bet on black.

LOVE that color on your LC. Easily my favorite. I have a white LX and really like it. But, that color you have on yours is what I've ALWAYS wanted. Might have to just break down and get mine repainted or get it wrapped

 

[bulax99]

Nice job on the rear fog, truck looks exceptionally clean.

Thanks. She’s a ‘99 with 145k on the clock

 

[jdayment]

I was skeptical but the cigarette odor is gone. There is a slight chemical smell from the ozone that should dissipate after a few days though, so we'll see if the cigarette odor returns then.

If that doesn't work dilluted vodka will get it out many retailers and upholstery people I know use it to get out smoke in some real ashtrays of cars

 

[jdlobb]

Curious to know what they said...

“Sorry, fill out this report and send us 3 estimates when you get home.”

They didn’t try to fight me at all, they’re accepting full liability.

 

[brando1]

Yup! I've been reading up on that for sure. Got under the rig earlier this week and have gotten lucky in that my bolt holes line up properly. Plan on cutting out the section of the cross-member required for the BIOR install (I'm getting the receiver and the trailer electric assembly on mine) prior to leaving for HIH. I will look a little silly driving with only the rear bumper core all the way to Colorado

I'm sure something will go a little sideways (it always does). But, I figure I'll have enough beer to deal with it.

I have the same bumper, it's awesome, installing out there could be a little bit of work. I've had to take mine on and off because my local powder coater did not prep it right. I'm assuming you are getting it already powdercoated from Mike.
First of all it's heavy, and lining up the frame bolts took some work on my truck just because of age and hard use.
I give you credit for attempting it though.

 

[Slashzero]

Busy day! Today, I cleaned up and painted my “new” Fuel Tank Skid Plate. I don’t have a lift, so I won’t be able to install it yet. In any case, I’d like to let it dry for a few days.

I used a wire brush to remove all the gunk (mostly a fine sand) that was stuck to it, hosed it down, then used some regular household cleaner to get the rest of the sand and grease off, and hosed it off again. Although I have a power washer, I opted not to use it.

After it dried, I hit it with several coats of Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer.

As received top side

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

Covered in a fine sand, and some surface rust.

As received bottom side

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

Looks like the left side scraped the ground during the accident. There are deep gouges.

Final coat of paint, bottom

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

I used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. I did about three coats on the bottom side.

Final coat of paint, top

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

I only painted the spots that had surface rust, or where the paint had been scraped off. I used...

Donor vehicle

Donor Vehicle

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

Here is the truck the skid plate came from. Poor thing!

You can see the right side of the skid plate is gouged, I’m assuming from the accident.

In any case, this is much, much better than the one on my truck at the moment, which has rusted and basically completely rotted out.

I also started working on trying to stop the rust on my liftgate bottom edge from spreading any further. I removed the license plate lights, and interior trim. The inside is in really good shape! I was surprised to not see any rust inside the liftgate, beyond the bottom area. I used a flapper disk (80 grit) attachment on my drill and hit the bottom of the tailgate, then covered it with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. I ordered some paint from amazon which is supposed to match the green of my truck, and will cover it up with that once I receive it.

Finally, I tried to unseize my e-brake. I’m able to now engage it, but it won’t retract when released. I wonder if it needs new springs.

 

[cmassa]

I finally did the heater T's. Before our trip to Joshua Tree in March I asked the dealer to change them when it was in for an oil change. He said I don't need to that they never break. I really didn't feel like arguing with him. If he didn't want my money then so be it. Probably would have cost a fortune as well. Anyway, I didn't have time to change them before we left but I did buy some new ones and took them along just in case. When we got back I ordered the hoses online from Camelback and did the job today. The T's had cost me $19 each from my local dealer so I've stopped buying parts there. The hot side broke as soon as I touched it!

Chris

 

[Slashzero]

I finally did the heater T's. Before our trip to Joshua Tree in March I asked the dealer to change them when it was in for an oil change. He said I don't need to that they never break.

Would you mind linking to the set of hoses you purchased? The heater Ts are my next project. I got some metal ones linked in another thread from a forum member, as well as new clamps.

 

[unplannedbbq]

New to me 2000 LC, 220k, heater tees last done by dealer @ 100k. Heater hoses all done about 50k ago at dealer. Can't believe they didn't replace the tees again at that time.

This job was first on my list (after removing the side steps.)

Really glad I did this job ASAP.

I followed recommendations & clamped everything first. Only lost about a 1/2 cup of antifreeze.

Both tees crumbled during removal.

I flushed & swabbed to get out all the residue & bits of old tee out. Total time for job = 1 hour.

Bought everything needed from Amazon (found in various heater tee replacement threads.) Happy with initial quality of the metal tees & stainless clamps.

Clean up - old tees & clamps, plastic chinese locking crimpers & a metal wing nut hose crimper.

 

[cmassa]

Would you mind linking to the set of hoses you purchased? The heater Ts are my next project. I got some metal ones linked in another thread from a forum member, as well as new clamps.

Here are the part numbers for my 2003 LC from the invoice:

87245-6A220
87245-6A210
87245-6A190
87245-6A180
87245-6A800
99556-20155

I ordered from Camelback Toyota and with shipping it was $97. I don't think there was a kit with all the hoses and I ordered them individually. Not cheap for 6 small hoses but it would have been more at my local dealer. They fit perfectly. I used the old clamps. No leaks.

I stuck with plastic oem T's. The originals were 15 years old and had 192K miles on them so I figured new ones would last me.

Chris

 

[geanes]

I have the same bumper, it's awesome, installing out there could be a little bit of work. I've had to take mine on and off because my local powder coater did not prep it right. I'm assuming you are getting it already powdercoated from Mike.
First of all it's heavy, and lining up the frame bolts took some work on my truck just because of age and hard use.
I give you credit for attempting it though.

Yup! I'm going to have Mike powdercoat it. It should be entertaining to mount it up on night 1. Figure I'll have enough LC/LX owners around at HIH that can provide motivation and laughs

 

[LandForce1]

My e brake was frozen too, it turned out to be a seized bell crank. Check out this thread.
Chemistry and your parking brake bell cranks

Today, I cleaned up and painted my “new” Fuel Tank Skid Plate. I don’t have a lift, so I won’t be able to install yet. In any case, I’d like to let it dry for a few days.

I use a wire brush to remove all the gunk (mostly a fine sand) that was stuck to it, hosed it down, then used some regular household cleaner to get the rest of the sand and grease off, and hosed it off again.

After it dried, I hit it with several coats of Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer.

As received top side

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

Covered in a fine sand, and some surface rust.

As received bottom side

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

Looks like the left side scraped the ground during the accident. There are deep gouges.

Final coat of paint, bottom

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

I used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. I did about three coats on the bottom side.

Final coat of paint, top

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

I only painted the spots that had surface rust, or where the paint had been scraped off. I used...

Donor vehicle

Donor Vehicle

• Slashzero
• Apr 22, 2018

Here is the truck the skid plate came from. Poor thing!

You can see the right side of the skid plate is gouged, I’m assuming from the accident.

In any case, this is much, much better than the one on my truck at the moment, which has rusted and basically completely rotted out.

I also started working on trying to stop the rust on my liftgate bottom edge from spreading any further. I removed the license plate lights, and interior trim. The inside is in really good shape! I was surprised to not see any rust inside the liftgate, beyond the bottom area. I used a flapper disk (80 grit) attachment on my drill and hit the bottom of the tailgate, then covered it with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. I ordered some paint from amazon which is supposed to match the green of my truck, and will cover it up with that once I receive it.

Finally, I tried to unseize my e-brake. I’m able to now engage it, but it won’t retract when released. I wonder if it needs new springs.

 

[Slashzero]

My e brake was frozen too, it turned out to be a seized bell crank. Check out this thread.
Chemistry and your parking brake bell cranks

Well, this is why I couldn’t find any threads when I searched. I kept looking for “e-break”. D’oh!

I’m just going to order the complete kit from cruiserparts.net and replace them. Thanks! If the current ones are salvageable, I will keep them as backups.

 

[MadDuo]

Installed Metal Tech upper and lower control links. Received my 2.5 inch OME lift kit, diff drop and SPC upper control arms. Gonna try to tackle the lift next week.

 

[Slashzero]

Here are the part numbers for my 2003 LC from the invoice:

87245-6A220
87245-6A210
87245-6A190
87245-6A180
87245-6A800
99556-20155

I ordered from Camelback Toyota and with shipping it was $97. I don't think there was a kit with all the hoses and I ordered them individually. Not cheap for 6 small hoses but it would have been more at my local dealer. They fit perfectly. I used the old clamps. No leaks.

I stuck with plastic oem T's. The originals were 15 years old and had 192K miles on them so I figured new ones would last me.

Chris

Thanks! Just ordered the hoses. $94 including shipping (found a coupon on Tacoma World forums (thanks, google!): TWpartz)

I’m going to use the metal ones I ordered. It sounds like although they look fine, most of these crumble on contact. Sounds like a ticking timebomb!

 

[Lopott]

Nope the ticking is the cracked header!!!!!!

 

[geanes]

Installed Metal Tech upper and lower control links. Received my 2.5 inch OME lift kit, diff drop and SPC upper control arms. Gonna try to tackle the lift next week.

Let me know what you think of those rear control links. I'm putting in my ToughDog lift next week and the rear control arms are on deck for June before HIH. Very curious your feedback on them. Thanks in advance.

 

[Slamd1958]

Replaced my navigation and HVAC controls. Ready for an Aftermarket Kenwood with Garmin Nav! Yes you can delete NAV and have all controls. Thank you Jerry Brinkley!

BTW the interior temperature is in Celsius so 20 degrees Celsius is 68 Degrees Fahrenheit

 

[leveeguy]

Removed, cleaned, rebooted with OEM kit and reinstall passenger side cv axle. My least favorite DIY project to date. I'm buying an OEM axle to have on hand for install next time .

 

[planomateo]

The T's had cost me $19 each from my local dealer so I've stopped buying parts there.

That's crazy expensive. They should sell for 1/2 that.