What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (35 Viewers)

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This is boring for most of you most likely. But I'm a beginner DIYer and I've discovered a new passion for wrenching on my 3rd gen 4Runner and 05 LC.

This afternoon I replaced driver side front bearing, races, seal, and lock washer. Repacked and got everything put back together. 3 hours total.
I am proud of myself.
I am a very experienced DIYer (25 years plus on anything with a motor) and I have been a little hesitant to tackle a repack on my LC100 front bearings. Not sure why because I do everything else, even transmissions. Now that I think about it, probably just a little hesitation because that is one of the few things I have never done on any vehicle. Good job noob DIYer! How difficult was it?
 
This is boring for most of you most likely. But I'm a beginner DIYer and I've discovered a new passion for wrenching on my 3rd gen 4Runner and 05 LC.

This afternoon I replaced driver side front bearing, races, seal, and lock washer. Repacked and got everything put back together. 3 hours total.
I am proud of myself.

You should feel proud bud, getting dirty and really understanding what makes what work and run and all is a lot of fun and educational.

Good job.
 
I took a gamble with a Mothers lens cleaning kit and for 28 bucks or so it worked great for me. Not new or perfect but the fogs I started with had 436K miles on them anyways so I figured what the heck! Of course the dream is t have a BB front or ARB eventually. But time will tell.

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20% seems to match the OEM back glass. Check your local laws governing tint... to confirm that it's illegal before you say @#&* it and tint them anyway ;)

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I went by the local excellent tint shop in our area and I asked what it would be to tint the back glass to 20% and the front windows to 35 to stay legal here in NC.

I also advised I could have all door panels and rear panels off to help them, mostly b/c I don't want them breaking 16 yr old plastic bits on me and they said about 250...

That a fair deal???

Also will some of the bronzish tint still be able to be seen? I am fond of the mirror type tint from the factory but want a bit more privacy.
 
The 35% will be nice. As much as I like the look of the 20% and driving during the day, I'll admit... at night... it kinda sucks. I occasionally have to put the window down to see what's going on to the sides.

$250 seems kinda high, but I've never had four windows done - only ever done two-door cars or just fronts. Also, if they're good - they don't need the door panels off. You've got more risk of breaking a clip then they do of damaging plastic.
 
They are the best in WNC actually, IMHO

The reason they remove door panels is a computer program and plotter/cutter makes the tint sections, they tint all the way to the edge of the windows that roll down and then they cure it with a heat gun also. No need to wait for days to roll your windows down. And it would be for them to tint everything... 20% on 7 windows, and 35% on 2 and then a 5% strip on the windshield.

The thing about the 20 percent or darker on the front is I noticed a few weekends ago with the wife and I out in Hot Springs in my Tacoma that it kind of creates a tunnel vision and we both could tell the taxing of the optical senses and it kind of fatiguing honestly. I vowed then to never tint my front windows darker than state allowances.
 
@Greenbean I got my rears in 20%, fronts 35%, and my whole windshield in 60% all for $200.

You ca probably get a better price if you shop around a little bit.
 
I

I am a very experienced DIYer (25 years plus on anything with a motor) and I have been a little hesitant to tackle a repack on my LC100 front bearings. Not sure why because I do everything else, even transmissions. Now that I think about it, probably just a little hesitation because that is one of the few things I have never done on any vehicle. Good job noob DIYer! How difficult was it?

Not bad really. The hardest part was removing the old races. I had to pound them out. But I worked around all sides and they came out relatively easy. My dad told me to put the new races in the freezer beforehand. I did. And they went in pretty well. I used the old races on top of new to drive the new races in. Wasn't hard.

You will need a couple of unique tools. 54mm socket (Amazon $39), a scale of some sort to check pre-tension (I used a fish scale $7) and a feeler gauge.
The FSM does a good job of explaining everything. It's fairly straightforward once you get in there. A bit messy too.
 
All is right in my world now...... After all the zerk fittings lined up on the first try, the second row seat mounts coming out witout issue, and the front brakes going without a hitch I was starting to get worried, waiting for the other shoe to drop.

Went to do the rear brakes and apparently the tire shop cross threaded one of the lug nuts on the rear wheels (coincidentally the last one I was loosening) was intending to get the rear brakes knocked out. Made it back to the shop right before they closed and the got it off with the mega heavy duty impact gun (got it off as in broke the stud). They were very apologetic and ordered a new stud, said they would install it for me when it arrived. No major deal, but I get worried when things go too smoothly.
 
I took a gamble with a Mothers lens cleaning kit and for 28 bucks or so it worked great for me. Not new or perfect but the fogs I started with had 436K miles on them anyways so I figured what the heck! Of course the dream is t have a BB front or ARB eventually. But time will tell.

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Wow, perfect solution. So you recommend that product given how cheap it was?
 
Wow, perfect solution. So you recommend that product given how cheap it was?

Yeah, and I mean with the mileage I have I just can't justify the 100 bucks or so on the eBay lens assemblies. Especially when my right headlight lens is pretty new and the left lens is original, lol...

I have a cheap drill that was plenty fast enough.

I will recommend you have some plastic clamps as I ended up clamping the light assemblies lightly to a wooden workbench/shelf in my shed. Made working the drill a lot easier.

I would NOT recommend trying it with the lenses in the bumper, there is no way you can get to the entire surface and not damage the bumper. Besides it's just one 10mm nut securing the assembly.
 
New Interstate MPT-27F battery with 90AH to replace my old stock 55AH group 34
Almost doubled my available AH for a $106 :)
Perfect fit with a non issue install
Much better set up for our on board fridge

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New Interstate MPT-27F battery with 90AH to replace my old stock 55AH group 34
Almost doubled my available AH for a $106 :)
Perfect fit with a non issue install

I'm going to look into this soon,
We have an Interstate battery sales place not far from the house.

Got the wife's CRV battery there recently and the transaction was very pleasant.
 
So I think a rack is in my future,
Where is the best place to source a quality rebuild? I haven't a clue.
Sorry, I wouldn't know a good source for a rebuilt steering rack. Maybe ebay? I chose to go with new OEM <-Always the best option. I'm sure other members know where to get one.

I did upgrade to Super Pro poly bushings for the rack.
 
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Sorry, I wouldn't know a good source for a rebuilt steering rack. Maybe ebay? I chose to go with new OEM <-Always the best option. I'm sure other members know where to get one.

10-4,

I'm slowly checking them out and I believe OEM is probably the way to go...

Appreciate the quick feedback.
 

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