Prepping for the 1300 mile ride to HIH7 and a Western Rocky back country adventure before hand, I wanted to confirm the front wheel bearing preload was still in spec. I replaced the front wheel bearings almost a year ago, and I've read that bearing preload can lessen over time especially with spacers and larger tires, which leads to loose bearings, claw washer scoring, eventually spindle wear. It was also time to lube the spindle bearings, and while I had it apart I would swap the flanges from side to side and pull the brake pads and clean the calipers.
I found that having spacers is an absolute PITA added step in removing the flanges. Even though I had coated mating surfaces with anti seize beforehand, they were pretty well stuck to the hub and it took some added time (and effort) to simply remove them (arrgh). After removing the flange, brake rotor, with a digital fish scale I checked the passenger side bearing, and the preload ranged from: 1.6 to 2.1 LBF (not good) I had originally set these to about 14LBF. So in 12 mo and 10k miles the preload diminished considerably. The driver side preload ranged from 5.1 to 6.2 LBF. So is it the 30mm spacers, and larger tires that contributed to diminished preload so soon??
I then had my first opportunity to use my Slee spindle bearing greasing tool. I had previously used the "push method" and I can say that the Slee tool is night & day easier and faster to use. Screw it on, pump in the grease, spin it off put it back in the tool box.
I tightened up preload on each side to get to an average range of 14-16LBF and buttoned it back up- err until I couldn't remember if I had folded the lock washer over the lock nut on the driver side- DANG IT- so I pulled the flange back off to check and good thing I did because I had forgotten. Buttoned everything back up with a new flange gasket, reused the cone washers related hardware since that was in good shape and replaced 10k ago.
Getting the axle to present the groove to install the snap ring took some work. Since I added a fair amount of grease to the spindle the grease needed to be squished back into the spindle and flange so it took @2001LC method of using a gear puller, and adjustable clamp against the rotor to pull the axle outward enough to install the snap ring. The snap ring gap hadn't changed significantly in 10k miles and was in spec. so no need to go up to the next size. I reused what came off. Note: Snap ring is intended be a one time use part ( as are the cone washers), but if carefully removed and the gap between the ends hasn't widened, its probably ok to reuse. If its been stretched, its a good idea to replace.
I have had an intermittent front right brake squeal so I pulled the pads and emptied a can of brake cleaner on both rotors. I found one of the pads had a small stone in the groove that lets the dust fall out- and had been collecting a fair amount of brake dust. The insulating covers that go on the back of the pads were dry as well so those got a light coating of copper anti seize. Hopefully this takes care of the intermittent squeal.
Spacers went back on with a fresh and more liberal coating of anti seize. Torquing the nuts that holds the spacer on presents some challenge. You cat really get a good torque setting since the rotor wants to spin. I had to brace to rotor with a breaker bar from the ground and between two lugs to lock it inlace to keep it from rotating. Sorry I should have stalled a pic of this for you guys to see- it works pretty well.
Went for a test drive, and everything feels great. Flange temps were around 125-130F after 20 minute ride so I'm assessing the bearing preload wasn't overdone. I came to the conclusion I will have new wheels with a 20-25mm offset and get rid of the spacers. Dealing with trying to remove them trailside should I need to would not be fun and some wheel bling won't hurt either. I love my Dissent bumper, but dang it, I hit my head a few times on the corner of it while I had my head in the wheel well. I think I need a corner guard when Im working in the wheel well, cause my short term memory sucks.
Almost ready to roll for HIH7.
I found that having spacers is an absolute PITA added step in removing the flanges. Even though I had coated mating surfaces with anti seize beforehand, they were pretty well stuck to the hub and it took some added time (and effort) to simply remove them (arrgh). After removing the flange, brake rotor, with a digital fish scale I checked the passenger side bearing, and the preload ranged from: 1.6 to 2.1 LBF (not good) I had originally set these to about 14LBF. So in 12 mo and 10k miles the preload diminished considerably. The driver side preload ranged from 5.1 to 6.2 LBF. So is it the 30mm spacers, and larger tires that contributed to diminished preload so soon??
I then had my first opportunity to use my Slee spindle bearing greasing tool. I had previously used the "push method" and I can say that the Slee tool is night & day easier and faster to use. Screw it on, pump in the grease, spin it off put it back in the tool box.
I tightened up preload on each side to get to an average range of 14-16LBF and buttoned it back up- err until I couldn't remember if I had folded the lock washer over the lock nut on the driver side- DANG IT- so I pulled the flange back off to check and good thing I did because I had forgotten. Buttoned everything back up with a new flange gasket, reused the cone washers related hardware since that was in good shape and replaced 10k ago.
Getting the axle to present the groove to install the snap ring took some work. Since I added a fair amount of grease to the spindle the grease needed to be squished back into the spindle and flange so it took @2001LC method of using a gear puller, and adjustable clamp against the rotor to pull the axle outward enough to install the snap ring. The snap ring gap hadn't changed significantly in 10k miles and was in spec. so no need to go up to the next size. I reused what came off. Note: Snap ring is intended be a one time use part ( as are the cone washers), but if carefully removed and the gap between the ends hasn't widened, its probably ok to reuse. If its been stretched, its a good idea to replace.
I have had an intermittent front right brake squeal so I pulled the pads and emptied a can of brake cleaner on both rotors. I found one of the pads had a small stone in the groove that lets the dust fall out- and had been collecting a fair amount of brake dust. The insulating covers that go on the back of the pads were dry as well so those got a light coating of copper anti seize. Hopefully this takes care of the intermittent squeal.
Spacers went back on with a fresh and more liberal coating of anti seize. Torquing the nuts that holds the spacer on presents some challenge. You cat really get a good torque setting since the rotor wants to spin. I had to brace to rotor with a breaker bar from the ground and between two lugs to lock it inlace to keep it from rotating. Sorry I should have stalled a pic of this for you guys to see- it works pretty well.
Went for a test drive, and everything feels great. Flange temps were around 125-130F after 20 minute ride so I'm assessing the bearing preload wasn't overdone. I came to the conclusion I will have new wheels with a 20-25mm offset and get rid of the spacers. Dealing with trying to remove them trailside should I need to would not be fun and some wheel bling won't hurt either. I love my Dissent bumper, but dang it, I hit my head a few times on the corner of it while I had my head in the wheel well. I think I need a corner guard when Im working in the wheel well, cause my short term memory sucks.
Almost ready to roll for HIH7.
