What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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Whelp, looks like i'm pretty sure my brand new OEM Toyota steering rack is leaking. I barely had it installed for a year.

Sigh. Guys, I think it's time for me to tap out from the 100 series platform. It's just been nothing but problems and expensive / time consuming repairs...
 
100d ua said:
Whelp, looks like i'm pretty sure my brand new OEM Toyota steering rack is leaking. I barely had it installed for a year.

Sigh. Guys, I think it's time for me to tap out from the 100 series platform. It's just been nothing but problems and expensive / time consuming repairs...
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That sucks. Positive it isn’t the hoses from the reservoir above the rack? Might be worth throwing AT205 at it to see if it stops the leak in the meantime.
 
100d ua said:
Whelp, looks like i'm pretty sure my brand new OEM Toyota steering rack is leaking. I barely had it installed for a year.

Sigh. Guys, I think it's time for me to tap out from the 100 series platform. It's just been nothing but problems and expensive / time consuming repairs...
Click to expand...
Sorry to hear. How many miles on the rig. What have you done to it other than replacing the steering rack.

Seems like Toyota has been dropping the ball since covid on vehicles and parts. New twin turbo v6 on the Tundra, LX600, LS500, and GX550 has been a complete disaster. The Corolla gr has problems, and a Toyota master technician was telling me that he is seeing a lot of new Tacoma's coming in with problems.

A few months ago I sent back a new Toyota remanufactured starter right out of the box and a new Toyota thermostat for my LS430 was not properly working, causing my radiator hose to pop off and lose all coolant, luckily it happened in the driveway and I did not over heat the engine. Replaced the hose clamps and it happened again after running for 10 minutes in the driveway. 😡 I replaced the thermostat and all is well.
 
mrkdwrds said:
That sucks. Positive it isn’t the hoses from the reservoir above the rack? Might be worth throwing AT205 at it to see if it stops the leak in the meantime.
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I'll give that a shot. Definitely not going to replace the rack unless I've given up and another owner is going to do it.

Besides that I can only think maybe the factory clamp on there is loose and leaking out... or i'm assuming there's not supposed to be ANY fluid behind that rubber boot... ugh...
 
Aracobuilt said:
Sorry to hear. How many miles on the rig. What have you done to it other than replacing the steering rack.

Seems like Toyota has been dropping the ball since covid on vehicles and parts. New twin turbo v6 on the Tundra, LX600, LS500, and GX550 has been a complete disaster. The Corolla gr has problems, and a Toyota master technician was telling me that he is seeing a lot of new Tacoma's coming in with problems.

A few months ago I sent back a new Toyota remanufactured starter right out of the box and a new Toyota thermostat for my LS430 was not properly working, causing my radiator hose to pop off and lose all coolant, luckily it happened in the driveway and I did not over heat the engine. Replaced the hose clamps and it happened again after running for 10 minutes in the driveway. 😡 I replaced the thermostat and all is well.
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290k miles on it right now. Can't even start to name all the parts that i've replaced on this thing as i've completely gone through this thing from top to bottom myself to make it bulletproof.
 
100d ua said:
290k miles on it right now. Can't even start to name all the parts that i've replaced on this thing as i've completely gone through this thing from top to bottom myself to make it bulletproof.
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Yeah the ROI on these trucks is terrible - it is all a labor of love. Once the love it gone, you can't justify the running costs on 100 series.

Bought my truck at peak pandemic and since then have had a few Toyota OEM parts just fail on me, including a fuel pump, the rear AHC globes etc.
 
ClassyJalopy said:
Yeah the ROI on these trucks is terrible - it is all a labor of love. Once the love it gone, you can't justify the running costs on 100 series.

Bought my truck at peak pandemic and since then have had a few Toyota OEM parts just fail on me, including a fuel pump, the rear AHC globes etc.
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I came from an old Subaru to the 100 and parts are undeniably expensive but the comfort and capability is so much better. With that said I can’t really think of many other platforms that offer the off-road capabilities, day-to-day comfort, and overall reliability of the 100-series at an entry price point of $10k-$20k for acceptable to excellent examples. What would you be looking at as an alternative in that price range?
 
Rushing said:
View attachment 4055644
This week I finished up my M8274 Revamp and install. Some cutting required, but definitely worth it for the upgrade in pulling power and line speed over the Badlands 12k that was on the truck before. The 8274 has been upgraded with a 15k motor, brake upgrade, and a full refresh of the upper and lower housing. I also opted to switch to the Albright Contactor, and adapted many of the features from the badlands, such as the wireless controller.
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Love the setup. Do you have any more photos or a write up on installing the 8274 into the arb bumper? I am looking to do this on mine as well. Although, I haven’t purchased the bumper yet and am not opposed to other bumpers to fit a 8274 in.
 
Good way to end 2025. Received my 200k miles sticker from Toyota today.
 

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New Years Eve fun. Replaced Front Output shaft seal on my center diff after it started leaking a lot, leaving drops on the driveway. I originally bought parts to replace the front and rear seals and bearings only to find the front bearing is on backorder and since i wanted to knock this job out i ended up canceling the order and just ordering the front seal. Truck has 125k miles so the bearing should be (and was) fine anyways.
I could really only find a video of people doing it out of the truck, Lexusoverland (With patch) made a helpful video i used to plan this job.

I managed to get the front extension housing off inside the truck but it took a few tricks, Firstly there's one bolt on the back of the trans that i had to take out to get like 10mm worth of extra clearance, Then i realized i couldn't rotate the housing enough to get it off as the center diff lock slider rod was in the way, but i was able to engage the center diff lock and it pulled it back far enough that i could rotate the housing, and then finally the cat heat shield needed to be moved out of the way. This gave barely just enough room to get it out.

I did not use a press or any fancy tools, I was worried about how i was going to pull the gear off the shaft without buying the harbor freight puller, but i ended up stacking puller arms from an extra puller and it actually worked to get the gear off. I noticed in the lexusoverland video there was no reason to pull the bearing out, i smacked the shaft a few times on wood and it came free. Pry out the old seal, hammered the new one in, put the shaft back in, hammered it back in with a block of wood up to the same spot it was at before, and then used a brass drift and alternating hits to press the gear back on the shaft (worked very well)

Having that diff lock engaged made re-assembly even easier, as when the lock is off, the sliding collar actually falls off and dangles and lining it back up again is a chore, but if it's "locked" it slides it back on the output gear from the rear end and then it's all lined up.

Of course while i was under the truck, i noticed my front diff axle seal was leaking. I love this truck but holy smokes i've had to service almost every part of it since buying it, and it's got low miles! I would definitely be broke if i had to pay someone for labor...
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Installed Lexus wheel cap PN 4260B-60390.

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dcarcagno said:
Finally got around to tearing out the interior. Putting down some sound deadener and cleaning and replacing broken clips. View attachment 4057051
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Got everything back together. Lots of sound deadening later. Feels like a new car. I also pulled the side body molding off because they were all loose and rattling. I ended up taking the clips off as most were broken. I covered the holes in the door with metal tape and installed new vapor barrier. Now I’m having a hell of a time trying to get the right combo of 3m tape and different silicone to get the panels on firmly. Any ideas? I know that I’ve seen a few threads but nothing about not using the OEM clips.

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farney43 said:
Where did you order the new wood steering wheel from?
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This was a custom restoration of an old LX wheel from @katit back in 2021. He did an amazing job, but I don't think he's interested in doing any more of these. I paid what I thought was a lot @ $390 back then. He claims to have 15-20 hours in each wheel, so I understand why he doesn't do them anymore. You might try reaching out, but I suspect the price would be considerably more.
 
Medrybstrange said:
New Years Eve fun. Replaced Front Output shaft seal on my center diff after it started leaking a lot, leaving drops on the driveway. I originally bought parts to replace the front and rear seals and bearings only to find the front bearing is on backorder and since i wanted to knock this job out i ended up canceling the order and just ordering the front seal. Truck has 125k miles so the bearing should be (and was) fine anyways.
I could really only find a video of people doing it out of the truck, Lexusoverland (With patch) made a helpful video i used to plan this job.

I managed to get the front extension housing off inside the truck but it took a few tricks, Firstly there's one bolt on the back of the trans that i had to take out to get like 10mm worth of extra clearance, Then i realized i couldn't rotate the housing enough to get it off as the center diff lock slider rod was in the way, but i was able to engage the center diff lock and it pulled it back far enough that i could rotate the housing, and then finally the cat heat shield needed to be moved out of the way. This gave barely just enough room to get it out.

I did not use a press or any fancy tools, I was worried about how i was going to pull the gear off the shaft without buying the harbor freight puller, but i ended up stacking puller arms from an extra puller and it actually worked to get the gear off. I noticed in the lexusoverland video there was no reason to pull the bearing out, i smacked the shaft a few times on wood and it came free. Pry out the old seal, hammered the new one in, put the shaft back in, hammered it back in with a block of wood up to the same spot it was at before, and then used a brass drift and alternating hits to press the gear back on the shaft (worked very well)

Having that diff lock engaged made re-assembly even easier, as when the lock is off, the sliding collar actually falls off and dangles and lining it back up again is a chore, but if it's "locked" it slides it back on the output gear from the rear end and then it's all lined up.

Of course while i was under the truck, i noticed my front diff axle seal was leaking. I love this truck but holy smokes i've had to service almost every part of it since buying it, and it's got low miles! I would definitely be broke if i had to pay someone for labor...View attachment 4059538

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That's a puller setup after my own heart...
 
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