How do we feel about 100s without roof racks? Took mine off to fix a few things and am kinda liking it:
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
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Changed the running board lights from a bright white led to amber for better camping /star vibes. Took a bit but was kinda fun heat shrinking all the wiring
More info please. Are you utilizing the factory running board lights or something aftermarket? I'm thinking about adding some lights under my sliders to activate with the door lights so I can see better at night.
I used factory light wires. I had a Toyota type connector on it previously but this time I cut the connectors and just heat shrank everything nice and tidy. I used owl expedition mounts which aren't available anymore as far as I can tell. I'll send you a Pic. When doors open the lights turn on and go off several seconds after doors close. I got some fog light pods(flood pattern) on Amazon - more flexibility in colors and patterns.
Perfect wheel/tire/slider combo. Nice poke!
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Looks good! Welcome to the slick top club
More like the last two weeks, but I:
- Installed the WKOR sliders
- Patched a big old rust hole on the rear of the frame
- Removed the tow hitch so I can stuff my spare tire under the truck
- Installed 1.25" BORA wheel spacers
- Extended the rear diff breather up to just behind the taillight
- Tightened up a fitting at a leaking heater tee (it's already a metal tee) and ordered a new set of heater hoses just in case
- Finally finished installing the ASAP flaps (which included bending back the pinch weld and re-molding the fender liner to get a little more clearance)
Writing it out it really doesn't seem like a big list, does it ...
Even with hammering the pinch weld and re-molding the fendering liner with a heat gun, the inside edge of my front wheels will still rub on the mud flaps in the just the right angle. I'm wondering if it's the combination of the BORA spacers and stock front ride height is causing this. I've been wary about cranking up the front torsion bars because I don't want to sacrifice droop travel, but that might be what I need to clear the flap comfortably in normal driving.
For anybody searching for clearance concerns in the future, the tires are brand new 275/70R18 Toyo AT/III EVs.
- Installed the WKOR sliders
- Patched a big old rust hole on the rear of the frame
- Removed the tow hitch so I can stuff my spare tire under the truck
- Installed 1.25" BORA wheel spacers
- Extended the rear diff breather up to just behind the taillight
- Tightened up a fitting at a leaking heater tee (it's already a metal tee) and ordered a new set of heater hoses just in case
- Finally finished installing the ASAP flaps (which included bending back the pinch weld and re-molding the fender liner to get a little more clearance)
Writing it out it really doesn't seem like a big list, does it ...
Even with hammering the pinch weld and re-molding the fendering liner with a heat gun, the inside edge of my front wheels will still rub on the mud flaps in the just the right angle. I'm wondering if it's the combination of the BORA spacers and stock front ride height is causing this. I've been wary about cranking up the front torsion bars because I don't want to sacrifice droop travel, but that might be what I need to clear the flap comfortably in normal driving.
For anybody searching for clearance concerns in the future, the tires are brand new 275/70R18 Toyo AT/III EVs.
And you wired these directly to the front running board light wiring harness or the one at the rear? I’d like more info including an Amazon link to the lights if possible. Thanks in advance.
I wired them to the front running board harness, not rear. I wired the front led light directly to the harness. I used a red t-tap connecter to connect a wire to the front led light wiring and ran that wire back to the rear. Then connected that wire to the rear led light. Here is link to the ones I purchased, these work with AHC. The problem will be finding mounts for the lights. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D31BHN9H?tag=ihco-20And you wired these directly to the front running board light wiring harness or the one at the rear? I’d like more info including an Amazon link to the lights if possible. Thanks in advance.
I need to cut off my inop AHC stuff rom my frame rails... I like the idea though. probably would go with some cheapo lights as there has been some light thefts on the rise in my area
Oil change 700 miles late, rotated tires and failed again at removing the bolt holding my dipstick tube to the engine. The leak will persist until I go out and buy actual 6 pt sockets to stop ****ing up all my old hardware. Also noticed oil on the rear bell housing and I’m hoping it’s just blowback from that dipstick oring and not the rear main starting to leak.
LXMarksTheSpot
SILVER Star
Can you post a picture of your connectors please? I have an open connector on my 2000 LX and I’m wondering if it could be for lights even though it didn’t come stock.
LXMarksTheSpot
SILVER Star
New OEM CV axles in! Solved my vibration issue after installing the Ironman lift!
Changed rear differential fluid. Had 60k on it. Still looked plenty clear. Had one concerning thing on the drain magnet and a little sludge.
you must really enjoy the sell of gear oil! That portion of inner fender behind taillight, is not sealed from interior...heck you can grab the jack and tools from the rear left tail light
vehicle rake......nah, not into that bro
Honestly I totally didn't think about that, but I'm not too worried about it. If it becomes a problem I can un-relocate it easily.