What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

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I also changed rear diff oil, mostly because it was an easy place to start. Oil was green-brown. No idea how long it had been in there. Just a little bit of light sludge on the magnet, no bits or chunks.

Then I moved on to the engine oil. This was actually kind of a PITA (messy) but we got it done. The truck is new to me so I pulled off the full covers to take a look at things, and to grease the front driveshaft. Noticed this unplugged plug, any ideas?

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Then I found this relatively fresh oil. Power steering fluid?

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Also, hard to see but it looks like grease has been flung out near the CVs.

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Would appreciate advice on anything you see here.
 
Truck died on me as I was making my way from the left lane of a major 3-lane highway to my exit. Thankfully was able to coast off to a side street, throw it in park, and turn it back on with little fuss. Get a little further down the road towards the house and it dies again at a light. Threw it in park as I was already stopped but it wouldn't restart this time, just strong cranking. Thankfully the mild downhill grade allowed me to coast into a nearby driveway in front of a taco truck and auto shop.

Pop the hood, pop the tailgate, open up the tool roll, and throw on some rubber gloves. First thing I noticed were corroded battery terminals. Though I knew it wasn't the source I went ahead and cleaned those up, needed to be done and would hurt in the diagnosis. Start going through the fuses. All were good, but the 20A EFI fuse looked a little funky, like one of the prongs was being pulled out of the plastic and a bit corroded. Swap that out with a replacement from the center console, fires right up and gets me home no problem.

Feeling good that it only set me back about 20 minutes, but could have done without the drama over a $0.05 fuse

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From the looks of it, this isn't the first time it's been a problem, the last fix was just sandpaper though.
 
Gartenmeister said:
I also changed rear diff oil, mostly because it was an easy place to start. Oil was green-brown. No idea how long it had been in there. Just a little bit of light sludge on the magnet, no bits or chunks.

Then I moved on to the engine oil. This was actually kind of a PITA (messy) but we got it done. The truck is new to me so I pulled off the full covers to take a look at things, and to grease the front driveshaft. Noticed this unplugged plug, any ideas?

View attachment 4062959

Then I found this relatively fresh oil. Power steering fluid?

View attachment 4062961

Also, hard to see but it looks like grease has been flung out near the CVs.

View attachment 4062962

Would appreciate advice on anything you see here.
Click to expand...

5

Thread 'Loose plug hanging near bank 1 upstream o2 sensor 2000 LX470'

What might this plug into?

loose plug.webp
 
213374U said:
Truck died on me as I was making my way from the left lane of a major 3-lane highway to my exit. Thankfully was able to coast off to a side street, throw it in park, and turn it back on with little fuss. Get a little further down the road towards the house and it dies again at a light. Threw it in park as I was already stopped but it wouldn't restart this time, just strong cranking. Thankfully the mild downhill grade allowed me to coast into a nearby driveway in front of a taco truck and auto shop.

Pop the hood, pop the tailgate, open up the tool roll, and throw on some rubber gloves. First thing I noticed were corroded battery terminals. Though I knew it wasn't the source I went ahead and cleaned those up, needed to be done and would hurt in the diagnosis. Start going through the fuses. All were good, but the 20A EFI fuse looked a little funky, like one of the prongs was being pulled out of the plastic and a bit corroded. Swap that out with a replacement from the center console, fires right up and gets me home no problem.

Feeling good that it only set me back about 20 minutes, but could have done without the drama over a $0.05 fuse

View attachment 4062973

From the looks of it, this isn't the first time it's been a problem, the last fix was just sandpaper though.
Click to expand...
Glad you made it home. That’s likely the start of more problems to come. You can do the EFI bypass or get a new fuse block, but I’m guessing in a few months of imperfect connection with your new fuse it’ll happen again.
 
Gartenmeister said:
I also changed rear diff oil, mostly because it was an easy place to start. Oil was green-brown. No idea how long it had been in there. Just a little bit of light sludge on the magnet, no bits or chunks.

Then I moved on to the engine oil. This was actually kind of a PITA (messy) but we got it done. The truck is new to me so I pulled off the full covers to take a look at things, and to grease the front driveshaft. Noticed this unplugged plug, any ideas?

View attachment 4062959

Then I found this relatively fresh oil. Power steering fluid?

View attachment 4062961

Also, hard to see but it looks like grease has been flung out near the CVs.

View attachment 4062962

Would appreciate advice on anything you see here.
Click to expand...
Looks like you might have a small rip in your boot. I have seen the same on mine albeit with more grease sling so I'm trying to pull everything apart to check out my CVs and maybe reboot with a high angle kit since I also need to lift my truck another .5" to put on my dobs UCAs
 
Installed the rear cupholders from Ben. Great quality, easy install, and pumped to have a set to match my fronts.

IMG_5994.webp


And, finally bit the bullet on dedicated winters. The KO2’s are soooooo bad on ice. They are truly a terrible winter tire for anything but light snow. I couldn’t take having any more Altimas pass me on the highway.

Firestone Winterforce LT in 285/75/16. They don’t look as bad as I thought they would, and they perform night and day better than the Bridgestones.

IMG_5996.webp
 
Couvi said:
How do we feel about 100s without roof racks? Took mine off to fix a few things and am kinda liking it:

View attachment 4060728

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I took mine off 5 years ago to track down a leak and never put it back. I used to have the front mud guards too but spacers and 33s created a lot of rubbing unfortunately. Don't add spacers (1.25" with 275/70/18 is my setup) if you don't want to rub. I've considered putting my bug guard back on so you've definitely given me something to thing about.
 
YotaWagon said:
I took mine off 5 years ago to track down a leak and never put it back. I used to have the front mud guards too but spacers and 33s created a lot of rubbing unfortunately. Don't add spacers (1.25" with 275/70/18 is my setup) if you don't want to rub. I've considered putting my bug guard back on so you've definitely given me something to thing about.
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I really like the simplified stock look with front mud flaps, etc. I’ve gone back and forth with the bug guard over the years — I do like how it defines the front end of the hood when driving — I can better see my corners. I’ve been running 265/70/18s for a while now but do want a 33” tire next set — no spacers. I may add a 1” coil spacer in rear to get a tad more rake as I’ve raised the front (slight torsion bar adjustment) to level is somewhat.
 
Couvi said:
I really like the simplified stock look with front mud flaps, etc. I’ve gone back and forth with the bug guard over the years — I do like how it defines the front end of the hood when driving — I can better see my corners. I’ve been running 265/70/18s for a while now but do want a 33” tire next set — no spacers. I may add a 1” coil spacer in rear to get a tad more rake as I’ve raised the front (slight torsion bar adjustment) to level is somewhat.
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If you end up wanting a bug guard, I have one I'm not going to use in dark amber/brown...I'll let you have it for the cost of the ride. Hit me up.
 
Couvi said:
How do we feel about 100s without roof racks? Took mine off to fix a few things and am kinda liking it:

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View attachment 4060729
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I’m sorry, but how do you carry your surfboards? :)

YMMV, as they say, but I rely on my LC as a utility vehicle.. part of that utility involves attaching things to the outside of the vehicle. I need that roof rack, otherwise my LC is useless to me for a lot of reasons.

If that’s what you like, then go for it! But for me, that Toyota in the background is more useful than an LC with no roof rack!! Is that a V8 4R?
 
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squidmotion said:
I’m sorry, but how do you carry your surfboards? :)

YMMV, as they say, but I rely on my LC as a utility vehicle.. part of that utility involves attaching things to the outside of the vehicle. I need that roof rack, otherwise my LC is useless to me for a lot of reasons.

If that’s what you like, then go for it! But for me, that Toyota in the background is more useful than an LC with no roof rack!! Is that a V8 4R?
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1G Sequoia
 
banjo1981 said:
1G Sequoia
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Thanks, Banjo..

My interest in the fist gen Sequoias grows day by day. I saw one with what looked like a lift and larger tires, but I think it’s the first one with any mods I’ve seen…. Why don’t we see more of these ‘outfitted’?
 
squidmotion said:
Thanks, Banjo..

My interest in the fist gen Sequoias grows day by day. I saw one with what looked like a lift and larger tires, but I think it’s the first one with any mods I’ve seen…. Why don’t we see more of these ‘outfitted’?
Click to expand...

I’ve had a couple. They’re a lot of truck for the money.
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Added a solenoid to isolate the batteries when the engine isn't running. Saves batteries, saves alternators.
When the key gets turned ON, the solenoid picks. When the key gets turned OFF, the solenoid drops.
No more batteries flattening each other (and taking the alternator out with them).

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frinesi2 said:
More like the last two weeks, but I:

- Installed the WKOR sliders
- Patched a big old rust hole on the rear of the frame
- Removed the tow hitch so I can stuff my spare tire under the truck
- Installed 1.25" BORA wheel spacers
- Extended the rear diff breather up to just behind the taillight
- Tightened up a fitting at a leaking heater tee (it's already a metal tee) and ordered a new set of heater hoses just in case
- Finally finished installing the ASAP flaps (which included bending back the pinch weld and re-molding the fender liner to get a little more clearance)

Writing it out it really doesn't seem like a big list, does it ...

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Even with hammering the pinch weld and re-molding the fendering liner with a heat gun, the inside edge of my front wheels will still rub on the mud flaps in the just the right angle. I'm wondering if it's the combination of the BORA spacers and stock front ride height is causing this. I've been wary about cranking up the front torsion bars because I don't want to sacrifice droop travel, but that might be what I need to clear the flap comfortably in normal driving.

For anybody searching for clearance concerns in the future, the tires are brand new 275/70R18 Toyo AT/III EVs.
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I get the same rubbing after the same steps you did in normal height mode. It goes away when I put it in HI, I've just learned to deal with.
 
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