got my parts from cruiserteq today, some of the easiest bushings I have ever replaced. Thanks for the motivation. I hear the 2003+ racks are quite a bit more difficult.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
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Just new wheels and tires, finally. KO3s in 285/70r17.
Oh 100% I was surprised, I think it only took me 2hr from start to finished.
Notice any benefit from this job?
Bought 02, Facebook buy
Went to smog it, exhaust leak.
New exhaust manifold and cat. Somebody WELDED the cat to the manifold, cracking it. 6k later back on the road
Went to smog it, exhaust leak.
New exhaust manifold and cat. Somebody WELDED the cat to the manifold, cracking it. 6k later back on the road
It definitely tighten up the steering
Yea, my forward driver side bushing was almost gone. All the others seemed in good shape. The original bushings are designed to have some side to side “play” in them, but are self centering to keep the wheel from wondering around. Poly bushings of course are much firmer, so you get “tighter” steering feel. The main challenge is there seems to be no high quality rubber bushings available, so poly is the only real option. No large downside, just a slightly firmer steering feel
I finally sprung for the Hurcan Tailgate Fabrication kit and got rid of the old brown carpet, which was doing fine, but oh what a welcome upgrade. I dare someone to cut out the center support when you do yours, for the added space, since I was too chicken. I've got a new thwack sound now that only happens one time when I first open up my tailgate. I can't figure it out for the life of me, but I've tested the cables by touching them to feel if it's coming from them and they are not binding at all or giving any vibration, I think it might be the tailgate assist, which I cut, that is making all the racket. Or maybe someone here has some insight. I'm not really too worried about it. Other than that the install went fine.
Sold my 100 that I dailyed when I got a company truck a few years back. Wife missed it so much we sold her GX and picked her up an 02 a couple weeks ago!
172k on the clock. Mechanically 9/10 and drives so good. Hardly a spec of rust on it but does have a few cosmetic deals we’re sorting through.
Replaced the heater T’s right away and thankfully we did. 3 of 4 horizontal connections all crumbled!
Replaced the rear bumper cover with my old one (luckily I kept it).
Also put on some 285/75/16 KO3’s.
Day we picked her up in Dallas.
KO3’s!
New bumper cover
Interior
172k on the clock. Mechanically 9/10 and drives so good. Hardly a spec of rust on it but does have a few cosmetic deals we’re sorting through.
Replaced the heater T’s right away and thankfully we did. 3 of 4 horizontal connections all crumbled!
Replaced the rear bumper cover with my old one (luckily I kept it).
Also put on some 285/75/16 KO3’s.
KO3’s!
New bumper cover
Interior
Wow, those T's were toast!
I know! They all broke off just trying to slide the clamps back.
Starter went out while in town (of course I had the utility trailer) - I do admit that it has been making noise like it was not always disengaging for quite a while, so not completely unexpected.
Had to find a neighbour to haul the trailer home as I don't have the "RV" package with BCAA and the tow company wanted $250 extra for it.
Spent most of Saturday taking everything apart. Took a lot of time as I did extra cleaning, took off the valve cover and put in the ultrasonic cleaner, checked spark plug torque, had a peek at the timing belt as I am about due for a change. Watched OTRAM, Patch's and Timmy's videos to make sure I didn't screw anything up.
I had the starter (bought a Denso unit just after I got the truck) and the gaskets but kept putting the job off after hearing how awful the job was. Turned out to be not as bad as I was expecting. Secret for me was 3/8 flex head with a deep socket for getting to the starter bolts.
Of course there was the removal of the expected nest and a bonus dried critter that got his head caught in the drain.
New unit in on Sunday:
Started right up with no issues. I was worried about some bearings that fell into the drains, so I removed the lower inspection cover hoping that they will fall out and not be shot around.
Had to find a neighbour to haul the trailer home as I don't have the "RV" package with BCAA and the tow company wanted $250 extra for it.
Spent most of Saturday taking everything apart. Took a lot of time as I did extra cleaning, took off the valve cover and put in the ultrasonic cleaner, checked spark plug torque, had a peek at the timing belt as I am about due for a change. Watched OTRAM, Patch's and Timmy's videos to make sure I didn't screw anything up.
I had the starter (bought a Denso unit just after I got the truck) and the gaskets but kept putting the job off after hearing how awful the job was. Turned out to be not as bad as I was expecting. Secret for me was 3/8 flex head with a deep socket for getting to the starter bolts.
Of course there was the removal of the expected nest and a bonus dried critter that got his head caught in the drain.
New unit in on Sunday:
Started right up with no issues. I was worried about some bearings that fell into the drains, so I removed the lower inspection cover hoping that they will fall out and not be shot around.
before you open it next time, see if you can reach in and hold that little flip down flap away from the tailgate as you lower it. I think I know the noise you're talking about and on mine it's when that plastic trim flap is sliding over the screws and such on the tailgate storage panel.
Where did you get the brake booster with accumulator from and how much was it. Thanks
Thanks
I don’t feel like that’s what it is because it seems like that alone wouldn’t be enough to cause the sound and vibration.
This fabrication involved cutting the tailgate assist rods. I feel like they have enough tension in them to be the culprit for causing such a sound and vibration.
I really wish it was that plastic trim flap. I’d be such an easy fix. I wish so much for it to be that that I’m going to check it anyway even though I don’t think it’s that.
rebuilt the seat cushions, this is the passenger side.
I trimmed those internal tension rods as well, I would need to look again to actually remember what I did, but I do remember that I cut them shorter and then made some kind of stand-off that covered the end to keep it catching on anything and to pre-load it and get a little more force into it. I went back through my build thread and it looks like I never captured that last step. I seem to recall that I essentially just used a block of wood that was cut to fit almost exactly between the top and bottom sheet metal panels (when tailgate is open) with a hole that the tension rod sits in (then trimmed after this pic so they didn't stick out and catch on everything)
Your pointer for checking the plastic trim flap led me to the culprit. I can finally say now I’m satisfied with my job on this fabrication, oddly days after I completed it.
I thought I had messed something up but I didn’t. Take a look at the picture you can see the torsion rod assist assembly hooks into a plastic clip and as I open and close the gate it pops in and out of that clip, which is what’s been making my noise that’s been driving me mad . Its completely harmless and I’m not sure if it’s supposed to pop out and pop back in like that, but it does it every time. Maybe it always did do that and I didn’t know it. That picture is taken right underneath the license plate.