Perfect- that's exactly what I would be doing too. Maybe mess with an old trailer, build a welder cart, etc. and just... get started. Glad to hear it works for that.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (24 Viewers)
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A few OEM parts ordered up for a 240k refresh..
Radiator with hoses & cap
Thermostat
Fuel filter
Heater T's
Steering wheel clockspring
Hood & rear lift struts
Radiator with hoses & cap
Thermostat
Fuel filter
Heater T's
Steering wheel clockspring
Hood & rear lift struts
Finally ordered some ASFIR skids.
what's the symptoms of the clock spring starting to go? im kicking myself for not changing the thermostat when I did my radiator a few months ago.
you get some clicking when you turn, also when it goes, you loose cruise control and also an airbag light goes on.
After a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut
, the system is working and has made my 22 year old crust wagon run amazing.The part that I thought would be the hardest ended up being the easier, replacing the fuel lines. Since these were pre-bent OE lines it seemed obvious they would be a pain, I was very wrong. Pulling out the old crusted lines was the worst. I wanted to keep them intact as best I could to be certain the lines I had to go back matched 100% and went to the right clip locations.
I ran into a major problem first, while detaching the main fuel line from the plastic elbow connection on the vinyl tube at the sending unit. It is a twist ring style connection which came off easy, but the crusted line going into it decided to stay. Snapped right at the brim on the connection and would not dislodge. Given short on time and needing my truck back, I snagged a 5/16 to 5/16 press and clip fitting from the auto parts store for $5. Cut the vinyl tubing then fit it back on the new connection. Works perfect.
My vent tube was the next problem I ran into. Again, 22 winters in southern Michigan is not forgiving. The tip was so rusty that when I went to release the hose clamp it just crumbled off the rest of the tube. So I cleaned everything up, cut away the rest of that crustacean, applied some Correseal, painted, and applied some rubberized coating for a bit of extra protection. Then grabbed a 5/8 tube as I needed there to be a bit of an extension since I lost a few inches.
My main reason for starting this journey was to replace my fuel tank and skid. I took a pretty hard impact last year on an ice block that was hiding under fresh snow. It obliterated the skid plate and pinched the tank causing some seeps. I ordered a tank and skid from car-part.com. They came from north western Wisconsin for $250 shipped to me. They had some surface rust on them, but very minimal to say the least. I immediately wire wheeled them both, adding Correseal after that. The skid plate was primed and painted with 3 coats of each applied. The tank was the same process, but was also rubber coated to give me a bit better protection. Needed after what my other tank looked like underneath. When they were ready to go in, I noticed how trashed my lines were and decided they needed to be replaced first. So I grabbed the lines, gaskets, and filter from the dealer for $185. The fuel pump is working good and I figured changing that is a cake walk compared to this, I’m not doing it right now.
Now that’s it’s all said and done, my tips for this job would be:
First and foremost, label the lines and where they are going. I did a simple 1-1, 2-2, and 3-3 with masking tape.
If you don’t need to remove them whole, don’t.
When you do replace them. Go in over the rear axle one at a time. Don’t be afraid to give them a little love to get them where they are going. The OE lines are much more stout than your average parts store lines.
Would I want to do it again? No chance. This job wasn’t very enjoyable. Informative, but not fun.
That said, the Cruiser runs better than it has ran since I bought it 4 years back. So the sweat, blood, and outrageously profane language that my neighbors definitely heard, seems to have been quite worth it.
Follow me for more rust in your eyes
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
TLDR...is what?After a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut
The part that I thought would be the hardest ended up being the easier, replacing the fuel lines. Since these were pre-bent OE lines it seemed obvious they would be a pain, I was very wrong. Pulling out the old crusted lines was the worst. I wanted to keep them intact as best I could to be certain the lines I had to go back matched 100% and went to the right clip locations.
I ran into a major problem first, while detaching the main fuel line from the plastic elbow connection on the vinyl tube at the sending unit. It is a twist ring style connection which came off easy, but the crusted line going into it decided to stay. Snapped right at the brim on the connection and would not dislodge. Given short on time and needing my truck back, I snagged a 5/16 to 5/16 press and clip fitting from the auto parts store for $5. Cut the vinyl tubing then fit it back on the new connection. Works perfect.
My vent tube was the next problem I ran into. Again, 22 winters in southern Michigan is not forgiving. The tip was so rusty that when I went to release the hose clamp it just crumbled off the rest of the tube. So I cleaned everything up, cut away the rest of that crustacean, applied some Correseal, painted, and applied some rubberized coating for a bit of extra protection. Then grabbed a 5/8 tube as I needed there to be a bit of an extension since I lost a few inches.
My main reason for starting this journey was to replace my fuel tank and skid. I took a pretty hard impact last year on an ice block that was hiding under fresh snow. It obliterated the skid plate and pinched the tank causing some seeps. I ordered a tank and skid from car-part.com. They came from north western Wisconsin for $250 shipped to me. They had some surface rust on them, but very minimal to say the least. I immediately wire wheeled them both, adding Correseal after that. The skid plate was primed and painted with 3 coats of each applied. The tank was the same process, but was also rubber coated to give me a bit better protection. Needed after what my other tank looked like underneath. When they were ready to go in, I noticed how trashed my lines were and decided they needed to be replaced first. So I grabbed the lines, gaskets, and filter from the dealer for $185. The fuel pump is working good and I figured changing that is a cake walk compared to this, I’m not doing it right now.
Now that’s it’s all said and done, my tips for this job would be:
First and foremost, label the lines and where they are going. I did a simple 1-1, 2-2, and 3-3 with masking tape.
If you don’t need to remove them whole, don’t.
When you do replace them. Go in over the rear axle one at a time. Don’t be afraid to give them a little love to get them where they are going. The OE lines are much more stout than your average parts store lines.
Would I want to do it again? No chance. This job wasn’t very enjoyable. Informative, but not fun.
That said, the Cruiser runs better than it has ran since I bought it 4 years back. So the sweat, blood, and outrageously profane language that my neighbors definitely heard, seems to have been quite worth it.
Follow me for more rust in your eyes
Too Long, Didn't Read
In case you have a Hybox tent from Thule, there is an open recall going on for those tents. I guess the tops were flying off during driving ( I call BS) but whatever.
Went to their site, filled out the form. Customer service contacted me within 24 hours, they set up a pickup with the 1-800junk guys. They came, picked it up, I sent picks of it in the truck with the receipt for pickup.
They said I could pick out any tent on their site, chose the new version which is now called the Basin
New one showed up yesterday. Whole process took about 10 days at no cost to me. Put it on the 100 yesterday, even came with the new lockable cam clamps that go into the t-track.
Went to their site, filled out the form. Customer service contacted me within 24 hours, they set up a pickup with the 1-800junk guys. They came, picked it up, I sent picks of it in the truck with the receipt for pickup.
They said I could pick out any tent on their site, chose the new version which is now called the Basin
New one showed up yesterday. Whole process took about 10 days at no cost to me. Put it on the 100 yesterday, even came with the new lockable cam clamps that go into the t-track.
- Ripped out & replaced the charcoal vapor canister on my 2006 LX470 with an OEM part from Japan (part # 77740-60450).
- Pretty simple job involving just 3 12mm bolts, 3 hose connections, and one electrical connection, all made even easier because my spare tire was previously relocated to the swing-out on my rear bumper, so it was very straightforward to get access to the charcoal canister, which sits above the stock spare tire location on these late-model 100-series vehicles. Plug & play swap to new unit.
- Pics or it didn't happen...
- Old:
- New:
- Removed and cleaned the blower from under the passenger dash in an effort to resolve an intermittent squeak heard while the AC is blowing. There were a few leaves inside the "hamster wheel" and I brushed out each vane with a citrus cleaner and bottle brush. Hoping the squeak isn't the bearing for the motor, but will have to reinstall and run in for a few days to see if the noise is gone.
- Removed and cleaned the cabin air filters and vacuumed the inside of the housing.
- Checked the AC condensation drain under the hood and ran some line through it to ensure it was clear. Then got back under the passenger glove box and tightened up the two lower screws. I am going to apply some silicone to further seal the unit. Even after replacing the AC/heater core packing previously, the condensation still makes it's way out and, as others have suggested, I suspect the screws may not have enough bite to keep that seal watertight.
If you replace the seal packing to fix a condensate leak… I recommend liberally coating the new seal packing with Shin Etsu silicone grease prior to installation.
Helps to ensure a proper seal, and prevents the seal packing from degrading.
Helps to ensure a proper seal, and prevents the seal packing from degrading.
Why’d you replace the charcoal canister?
I felt bad that my LX has been sitting outside during our two weeks of told digits temps in SoCal and then followed that with that tropical depression that swept up to make the car even dirtier. I finally washed it and put s coat of wax on it because the poor thing deserved it. She cleans up nicely
Please tell me hope you did the slots. When i did my DIY Prinsu rack i didn’t know how to do that without spending a lot of time drilling two holes then cutting out the slots
Finally got my replacement trailer harness from cruiser parts, and got it installed. Man, what a mess my old one was… previous owner had backed into something with the old one and broke it all up. I made it work till I could get a replacement.
After a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut
The part that I thought would be the hardest ended up being the easier, replacing the fuel lines. Since these were pre-bent OE lines it seemed obvious they would be a pain, I was very wrong. Pulling out the old crusted lines was the worst. I wanted to keep them intact as best I could to be certain the lines I had to go back matched 100% and went to the right clip locations.
I ran into a major problem first, while detaching the main fuel line from the plastic elbow connection on the vinyl tube at the sending unit. It is a twist ring style connection which came off easy, but the crusted line going into it decided to stay. Snapped right at the brim on the connection and would not dislodge. Given short on time and needing my truck back, I snagged a 5/16 to 5/16 press and clip fitting from the auto parts store for $5. Cut the vinyl tubing then fit it back on the new connection. Works perfect.
My vent tube was the next problem I ran into. Again, 22 winters in southern Michigan is not forgiving. The tip was so rusty that when I went to release the hose clamp it just crumbled off the rest of the tube. So I cleaned everything up, cut away the rest of that crustacean, applied some Correseal, painted, and applied some rubberized coating for a bit of extra protection. Then grabbed a 5/8 tube as I needed there to be a bit of an extension since I lost a few inches.
My main reason for starting this journey was to replace my fuel tank and skid. I took a pretty hard impact last year on an ice block that was hiding under fresh snow. It obliterated the skid plate and pinched the tank causing some seeps. I ordered a tank and skid from car-part.com. They came from north western Wisconsin for $250 shipped to me. They had some surface rust on them, but very minimal to say the least. I immediately wire wheeled them both, adding Correseal after that. The skid plate was primed and painted with 3 coats of each applied. The tank was the same process, but was also rubber coated to give me a bit better protection. Needed after what my other tank looked like underneath. When they were ready to go in, I noticed how trashed my lines were and decided they needed to be replaced first. So I grabbed the lines, gaskets, and filter from the dealer for $185. The fuel pump is working good and I figured changing that is a cake walk compared to this, I’m not doing it right now.
Now that’s it’s all said and done, my tips for this job would be:
First and foremost, label the lines and where they are going. I did a simple 1-1, 2-2, and 3-3 with masking tape.
If you don’t need to remove them whole, don’t.
When you do replace them. Go in over the rear axle one at a time. Don’t be afraid to give them a little love to get them where they are going. The OE lines are much more stout than your average parts store lines.
Would I want to do it again? No chance. This job wasn’t very enjoyable. Informative, but not fun.
That said, the Cruiser runs better than it has ran since I bought it 4 years back. So the sweat, blood, and outrageously profane language that my neighbors definitely heard, seems to have been quite worth it.
Follow me for more rust in your eyes
I was thinking of replacing my fuel lines as well. Did you go OEM on the lines, if so what are the parts #. ThanksAfter a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut
The part that I thought would be the hardest ended up being the easier, replacing the fuel lines. Since these were pre-bent OE lines it seemed obvious they would be a pain, I was very wrong. Pulling out the old crusted lines was the worst. I wanted to keep them intact as best I could to be certain the lines I had to go back matched 100% and went to the right clip locations.
I ran into a major problem first, while detaching the main fuel line from the plastic elbow connection on the vinyl tube at the sending unit. It is a twist ring style connection which came off easy, but the crusted line going into it decided to stay. Snapped right at the brim on the connection and would not dislodge. Given short on time and needing my truck back, I snagged a 5/16 to 5/16 press and clip fitting from the auto parts store for $5. Cut the vinyl tubing then fit it back on the new connection. Works perfect.
My vent tube was the next problem I ran into. Again, 22 winters in southern Michigan is not forgiving. The tip was so rusty that when I went to release the hose clamp it just crumbled off the rest of the tube. So I cleaned everything up, cut away the rest of that crustacean, applied some Correseal, painted, and applied some rubberized coating for a bit of extra protection. Then grabbed a 5/8 tube as I needed there to be a bit of an extension since I lost a few inches.
My main reason for starting this journey was to replace my fuel tank and skid. I took a pretty hard impact last year on an ice block that was hiding under fresh snow. It obliterated the skid plate and pinched the tank causing some seeps. I ordered a tank and skid from car-part.com. They came from north western Wisconsin for $250 shipped to me. They had some surface rust on them, but very minimal to say the least. I immediately wire wheeled them both, adding Correseal after that. The skid plate was primed and painted with 3 coats of each applied. The tank was the same process, but was also rubber coated to give me a bit better protection. Needed after what my other tank looked like underneath. When they were ready to go in, I noticed how trashed my lines were and decided they needed to be replaced first. So I grabbed the lines, gaskets, and filter from the dealer for $185. The fuel pump is working good and I figured changing that is a cake walk compared to this, I’m not doing it right now.
Now that’s it’s all said and done, my tips for this job would be:
First and foremost, label the lines and where they are going. I did a simple 1-1, 2-2, and 3-3 with masking tape.
If you don’t need to remove them whole, don’t.
When you do replace them. Go in over the rear axle one at a time. Don’t be afraid to give them a little love to get them where they are going. The OE lines are much more stout than your average parts store lines.
Would I want to do it again? No chance. This job wasn’t very enjoyable. Informative, but not fun.
That said, the Cruiser runs better than it has ran since I bought it 4 years back. So the sweat, blood, and outrageously profane language that my neighbors definitely heard, seems to have been quite worth it.
Follow me for more rust in your eyes
Yes, all OE and OE gaskets. They ran like $150 through the dealer for all 3 lines and 2 gaskets. I’ll have to dig through some paperwork to confirm, but I’ll look.
Edit:
Found the part numbers, these are for a 2000 Land Cruiser
77251-60690 Tube, Fuel Main
77255-60610 Tube, Fuel Return
77261-60310 Tube, Fuel Tank
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apparently I had a blonde moment... the old connector had a 7 pin to 4-5 pin adaptor in it that was broken. it was stuck in there pretty well and it was broken inside the OEM plug itself so it wasn't obvious (to me). I got the new one. put in after searching for months to even find it, just to find out that the original was never broken to begin with. guess I have an extra now
can you link me to this?
thank you
to the OEM replacement I bought? I got it from cruiser parts. they didn't have one when I first started talking to them so I ordered an aftermarket just so I could tow with lights. I talked back and forth with them for a while and they could no longer source the part I bought, and then finally they had an OEM used one that they found and shipped it to me. I didn't want to spend the money on a new OEM they were crazy expensive for what does. sometimes its easier to call or email about a part from them as their website takes a while to learn how to use. super knowledgeable guys though. all this only to realize 20 min after I replaced it that it was never broken to begin with lol.
