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Thanks, just learning as I go. I’ve built a front coastal off-road bumper and the 4x4labs rear bumper with just some final touches needed. Combined it’s a lot of welding (something like 8 spools of flux wire). Definitely have gotten more comfortable with the machine and welding in general, but definitely just learning to crawl in the world of welding.
Perfect- that's exactly what I would be doing too. Maybe mess with an old trailer, build a welder cart, etc. and just... get started. Glad to hear it works for that.
what's the symptoms of the clock spring starting to go? im kicking myself for not changing the thermostat when I did my radiator a few months ago.
you get some clicking when you turn, also when it goes, you loose cruise control and also an airbag light goes on.
After a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut
, the system is working and has made my 22 year old crust wagon run amazing.
TLDR...is what?After a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut
The part that I thought would be the hardest ended up being the easier, replacing the fuel lines. Since these were pre-bent OE lines it seemed obvious they would be a pain, I was very wrong. Pulling out the old crusted lines was the worst. I wanted to keep them intact as best I could to be certain the lines I had to go back matched 100% and went to the right clip locations.
I ran into a major problem first, while detaching the main fuel line from the plastic elbow connection on the vinyl tube at the sending unit. It is a twist ring style connection which came off easy, but the crusted line going into it decided to stay. Snapped right at the brim on the connection and would not dislodge. Given short on time and needing my truck back, I snagged a 5/16 to 5/16 press and clip fitting from the auto parts store for $5. Cut the vinyl tubing then fit it back on the new connection. Works perfect.
My vent tube was the next problem I ran into. Again, 22 winters in southern Michigan is not forgiving. The tip was so rusty that when I went to release the hose clamp it just crumbled off the rest of the tube. So I cleaned everything up, cut away the rest of that crustacean, applied some Correseal, painted, and applied some rubberized coating for a bit of extra protection. Then grabbed a 5/8 tube as I needed there to be a bit of an extension since I lost a few inches.
My main reason for starting this journey was to replace my fuel tank and skid. I took a pretty hard impact last year on an ice block that was hiding under fresh snow. It obliterated the skid plate and pinched the tank causing some seeps. I ordered a tank and skid from car-part.com. They came from north western Wisconsin for $250 shipped to me. They had some surface rust on them, but very minimal to say the least. I immediately wire wheeled them both, adding Correseal after that. The skid plate was primed and painted with 3 coats of each applied. The tank was the same process, but was also rubber coated to give me a bit better protection. Needed after what my other tank looked like underneath. When they were ready to go in, I noticed how trashed my lines were and decided they needed to be replaced first. So I grabbed the lines, gaskets, and filter from the dealer for $185. The fuel pump is working good and I figured changing that is a cake walk compared to this, I’m not doing it right now.
Now that’s it’s all said and done, my tips for this job would be:
First and foremost, label the lines and where they are going. I did a simple 1-1, 2-2, and 3-3 with masking tape.
If you don’t need to remove them whole, don’t.
When you do replace them. Go in over the rear axle one at a time. Don’t be afraid to give them a little love to get them where they are going. The OE lines are much more stout than your average parts store lines.
Would I want to do it again? No chance. This job wasn’t very enjoyable. Informative, but not fun.
That said, the Cruiser runs better than it has ran since I bought it 4 years back. So the sweat, blood, and outrageously profane language that my neighbors definitely heard, seems to have been quite worth it.
Follow me for more rust in your eyes
Too Long, Didn't Read
Why’d you replace the charcoal canister?
Please tell me hope you did the slots. When i did my DIY Prinsu rack i didn’t know how to do that without spending a lot of time drilling two holes then cutting out the slots
After a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut
The part that I thought would be the hardest ended up being the easier, replacing the fuel lines. Since these were pre-bent OE lines it seemed obvious they would be a pain, I was very wrong. Pulling out the old crusted lines was the worst. I wanted to keep them intact as best I could to be certain the lines I had to go back matched 100% and went to the right clip locations.
I ran into a major problem first, while detaching the main fuel line from the plastic elbow connection on the vinyl tube at the sending unit. It is a twist ring style connection which came off easy, but the crusted line going into it decided to stay. Snapped right at the brim on the connection and would not dislodge. Given short on time and needing my truck back, I snagged a 5/16 to 5/16 press and clip fitting from the auto parts store for $5. Cut the vinyl tubing then fit it back on the new connection. Works perfect.
My vent tube was the next problem I ran into. Again, 22 winters in southern Michigan is not forgiving. The tip was so rusty that when I went to release the hose clamp it just crumbled off the rest of the tube. So I cleaned everything up, cut away the rest of that crustacean, applied some Correseal, painted, and applied some rubberized coating for a bit of extra protection. Then grabbed a 5/8 tube as I needed there to be a bit of an extension since I lost a few inches.
My main reason for starting this journey was to replace my fuel tank and skid. I took a pretty hard impact last year on an ice block that was hiding under fresh snow. It obliterated the skid plate and pinched the tank causing some seeps. I ordered a tank and skid from car-part.com. They came from north western Wisconsin for $250 shipped to me. They had some surface rust on them, but very minimal to say the least. I immediately wire wheeled them both, adding Correseal after that. The skid plate was primed and painted with 3 coats of each applied. The tank was the same process, but was also rubber coated to give me a bit better protection. Needed after what my other tank looked like underneath. When they were ready to go in, I noticed how trashed my lines were and decided they needed to be replaced first. So I grabbed the lines, gaskets, and filter from the dealer for $185. The fuel pump is working good and I figured changing that is a cake walk compared to this, I’m not doing it right now.
Now that’s it’s all said and done, my tips for this job would be:
First and foremost, label the lines and where they are going. I did a simple 1-1, 2-2, and 3-3 with masking tape.
If you don’t need to remove them whole, don’t.
When you do replace them. Go in over the rear axle one at a time. Don’t be afraid to give them a little love to get them where they are going. The OE lines are much more stout than your average parts store lines.
Would I want to do it again? No chance. This job wasn’t very enjoyable. Informative, but not fun.
That said, the Cruiser runs better than it has ran since I bought it 4 years back. So the sweat, blood, and outrageously profane language that my neighbors definitely heard, seems to have been quite worth it.
Follow me for more rust in your eyes
I was thinking of replacing my fuel lines as well. Did you go OEM on the lines, if so what are the parts #. ThanksAfter a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut
The part that I thought would be the hardest ended up being the easier, replacing the fuel lines. Since these were pre-bent OE lines it seemed obvious they would be a pain, I was very wrong. Pulling out the old crusted lines was the worst. I wanted to keep them intact as best I could to be certain the lines I had to go back matched 100% and went to the right clip locations.
I ran into a major problem first, while detaching the main fuel line from the plastic elbow connection on the vinyl tube at the sending unit. It is a twist ring style connection which came off easy, but the crusted line going into it decided to stay. Snapped right at the brim on the connection and would not dislodge. Given short on time and needing my truck back, I snagged a 5/16 to 5/16 press and clip fitting from the auto parts store for $5. Cut the vinyl tubing then fit it back on the new connection. Works perfect.
My vent tube was the next problem I ran into. Again, 22 winters in southern Michigan is not forgiving. The tip was so rusty that when I went to release the hose clamp it just crumbled off the rest of the tube. So I cleaned everything up, cut away the rest of that crustacean, applied some Correseal, painted, and applied some rubberized coating for a bit of extra protection. Then grabbed a 5/8 tube as I needed there to be a bit of an extension since I lost a few inches.
My main reason for starting this journey was to replace my fuel tank and skid. I took a pretty hard impact last year on an ice block that was hiding under fresh snow. It obliterated the skid plate and pinched the tank causing some seeps. I ordered a tank and skid from car-part.com. They came from north western Wisconsin for $250 shipped to me. They had some surface rust on them, but very minimal to say the least. I immediately wire wheeled them both, adding Correseal after that. The skid plate was primed and painted with 3 coats of each applied. The tank was the same process, but was also rubber coated to give me a bit better protection. Needed after what my other tank looked like underneath. When they were ready to go in, I noticed how trashed my lines were and decided they needed to be replaced first. So I grabbed the lines, gaskets, and filter from the dealer for $185. The fuel pump is working good and I figured changing that is a cake walk compared to this, I’m not doing it right now.
Now that’s it’s all said and done, my tips for this job would be:
First and foremost, label the lines and where they are going. I did a simple 1-1, 2-2, and 3-3 with masking tape.
If you don’t need to remove them whole, don’t.
When you do replace them. Go in over the rear axle one at a time. Don’t be afraid to give them a little love to get them where they are going. The OE lines are much more stout than your average parts store lines.
Would I want to do it again? No chance. This job wasn’t very enjoyable. Informative, but not fun.
That said, the Cruiser runs better than it has ran since I bought it 4 years back. So the sweat, blood, and outrageously profane language that my neighbors definitely heard, seems to have been quite worth it.
Follow me for more rust in your eyes
Yes, all OE and OE gaskets. They ran like $150 through the dealer for all 3 lines and 2 gaskets. I’ll have to dig through some paperwork to confirm, but I’ll look.
apparently I had a blonde moment... the old connector had a 7 pin to 4-5 pin adaptor in it that was broken. it was stuck in there pretty well and it was broken inside the OEM plug itself so it wasn't obvious (to me). I got the new one. put in after searching for months to even find it, just to find out that the original was never broken to begin with. guess I have an extra now
can you link me to this?
