WDYD What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (4 Viewers)

What did you do....
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
131
Location
NW Arkansas
  • Ripped out & replaced the charcoal vapor canister on my 2006 LX470 with an OEM part from Japan (part # 77740-60450).
    • Pretty simple job involving just 3 12mm bolts, 3 hose connections, and one electrical connection, all made even easier because my spare tire was previously relocated to the swing-out on my rear bumper, so it was very straightforward to get access to the charcoal canister, which sits above the stock spare tire location on these late-model 100-series vehicles. Plug & play swap to new unit.
    • Pics or it didn't happen...
    • Old: View attachment 3121713
    • New: View attachment 3121714
  • Removed and cleaned the blower from under the passenger dash in an effort to resolve an intermittent squeak heard while the AC is blowing. There were a few leaves inside the "hamster wheel" and I brushed out each vane with a citrus cleaner and bottle brush. Hoping the squeak isn't the bearing for the motor, but will have to reinstall and run in for a few days to see if the noise is gone.
  • Removed and cleaned the cabin air filters and vacuumed the inside of the housing.
  • Checked the AC condensation drain under the hood and ran some line through it to ensure it was clear. Then got back under the passenger glove box and tightened up the two lower screws. I am going to apply some silicone to further seal the unit. Even after replacing the AC/heater core packing previously, the condensation still makes it's way out and, as others have suggested, I suspect the screws may not have enough bite to keep that seal watertight.
Why’d you replace the charcoal canister?
 
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
591
Location
Eastvale
I felt bad that my LX has been sitting outside during our two weeks of told digits temps in SoCal and then followed that with that tropical depression that swept up to make the car even dirtier. I finally washed it and put s coat of wax on it because the poor thing deserved it. She cleans up nicely

AC890F25-82E4-4C3A-B598-8CFBA23CD09D.jpeg
 
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
591
Location
Eastvale
Found scrap aluminum at my metal supply shop sold by weight. 1/8” plate and 1/4” aluminum. Purchased Sherpa mounts with their ss hardware and t nuts extrusions. Had to do some tig welding to add more width to give the front more real estate for the roof curve.
I put a white wrap on the roof prior to starting. I think I’ll keep it raw.

View attachment 3119760

View attachment 3119762

View attachment 3119763

View attachment 3119764

View attachment 3119765
Please tell me hope you did the slots. When i did my DIY Prinsu rack i didn’t know how to do that without spending a lot of time drilling two holes then cutting out the slots
 
Joined
Apr 29, 2022
Messages
61
Location
Charleston, SC
Finally got my replacement trailer harness from cruiser parts, and got it installed. Man, what a mess my old one was… previous owner had backed into something with the old one and broke it all up. I made it work till I could get a replacement.

AD498F6D-73D2-48A6-B08B-94E6D652B483.jpeg


B3B54C72-EC8E-40D7-A8C2-7BF6A7737D7A.jpeg
 
Joined
Jan 10, 2019
Messages
47
Location
Charlotte NC
After a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut 🤦🏼‍♂️, the system is working and has made my 22 year old crust wagon run amazing.
The part that I thought would be the hardest ended up being the easier, replacing the fuel lines. Since these were pre-bent OE lines it seemed obvious they would be a pain, I was very wrong. Pulling out the old crusted lines was the worst. I wanted to keep them intact as best I could to be certain the lines I had to go back matched 100% and went to the right clip locations.
I ran into a major problem first, while detaching the main fuel line from the plastic elbow connection on the vinyl tube at the sending unit. It is a twist ring style connection which came off easy, but the crusted line going into it decided to stay. Snapped right at the brim on the connection and would not dislodge. Given short on time and needing my truck back, I snagged a 5/16 to 5/16 press and clip fitting from the auto parts store for $5. Cut the vinyl tubing then fit it back on the new connection. Works perfect.
My vent tube was the next problem I ran into. Again, 22 winters in southern Michigan is not forgiving. The tip was so rusty that when I went to release the hose clamp it just crumbled off the rest of the tube. So I cleaned everything up, cut away the rest of that crustacean, applied some Correseal, painted, and applied some rubberized coating for a bit of extra protection. Then grabbed a 5/8 tube as I needed there to be a bit of an extension since I lost a few inches.
My main reason for starting this journey was to replace my fuel tank and skid. I took a pretty hard impact last year on an ice block that was hiding under fresh snow. It obliterated the skid plate and pinched the tank causing some seeps. I ordered a tank and skid from car-part.com. They came from north western Wisconsin for $250 shipped to me. They had some surface rust on them, but very minimal to say the least. I immediately wire wheeled them both, adding Correseal after that. The skid plate was primed and painted with 3 coats of each applied. The tank was the same process, but was also rubber coated to give me a bit better protection. Needed after what my other tank looked like underneath. When they were ready to go in, I noticed how trashed my lines were and decided they needed to be replaced first. So I grabbed the lines, gaskets, and filter from the dealer for $185. The fuel pump is working good and I figured changing that is a cake walk compared to this, I’m not doing it right now.
Now that’s it’s all said and done, my tips for this job would be:
First and foremost, label the lines and where they are going. I did a simple 1-1, 2-2, and 3-3 with masking tape.
If you don’t need to remove them whole, don’t.
When you do replace them. Go in over the rear axle one at a time. Don’t be afraid to give them a little love to get them where they are going. The OE lines are much more stout than your average parts store lines.
Would I want to do it again? No chance. This job wasn’t very enjoyable. Informative, but not fun.
That said, the Cruiser runs better than it has ran since I bought it 4 years back. So the sweat, blood, and outrageously profane language that my neighbors definitely heard, seems to have been quite worth it.
Follow me for more rust in your eyes

After a couple of snags with crumbling lines and a mis-measured cut 🤦🏼‍♂️, the system is working and has made my 22 year old crust wagon run amazing.
The part that I thought would be the hardest ended up being the easier, replacing the fuel lines. Since these were pre-bent OE lines it seemed obvious they would be a pain, I was very wrong. Pulling out the old crusted lines was the worst. I wanted to keep them intact as best I could to be certain the lines I had to go back matched 100% and went to the right clip locations.
I ran into a major problem first, while detaching the main fuel line from the plastic elbow connection on the vinyl tube at the sending unit. It is a twist ring style connection which came off easy, but the crusted line going into it decided to stay. Snapped right at the brim on the connection and would not dislodge. Given short on time and needing my truck back, I snagged a 5/16 to 5/16 press and clip fitting from the auto parts store for $5. Cut the vinyl tubing then fit it back on the new connection. Works perfect.
My vent tube was the next problem I ran into. Again, 22 winters in southern Michigan is not forgiving. The tip was so rusty that when I went to release the hose clamp it just crumbled off the rest of the tube. So I cleaned everything up, cut away the rest of that crustacean, applied some Correseal, painted, and applied some rubberized coating for a bit of extra protection. Then grabbed a 5/8 tube as I needed there to be a bit of an extension since I lost a few inches.
My main reason for starting this journey was to replace my fuel tank and skid. I took a pretty hard impact last year on an ice block that was hiding under fresh snow. It obliterated the skid plate and pinched the tank causing some seeps. I ordered a tank and skid from car-part.com. They came from north western Wisconsin for $250 shipped to me. They had some surface rust on them, but very minimal to say the least. I immediately wire wheeled them both, adding Correseal after that. The skid plate was primed and painted with 3 coats of each applied. The tank was the same process, but was also rubber coated to give me a bit better protection. Needed after what my other tank looked like underneath. When they were ready to go in, I noticed how trashed my lines were and decided they needed to be replaced first. So I grabbed the lines, gaskets, and filter from the dealer for $185. The fuel pump is working good and I figured changing that is a cake walk compared to this, I’m not doing it right now.
Now that’s it’s all said and done, my tips for this job would be:
First and foremost, label the lines and where they are going. I did a simple 1-1, 2-2, and 3-3 with masking tape.
If you don’t need to remove them whole, don’t.
When you do replace them. Go in over the rear axle one at a time. Don’t be afraid to give them a little love to get them where they are going. The OE lines are much more stout than your average parts store lines.
Would I want to do it again? No chance. This job wasn’t very enjoyable. Informative, but not fun.
That said, the Cruiser runs better than it has ran since I bought it 4 years back. So the sweat, blood, and outrageously profane language that my neighbors definitely heard, seems to have been quite worth it.
Follow me for more rust in your eyes 🍻
I was thinking of replacing my fuel lines as well. Did you go OEM on the lines, if so what are the parts #. Thanks
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Messages
206
Location
South Central Michigan
I was thinking of replacing my fuel lines as well. Did you go OEM on the lines, if so what are the parts #. Thanks
Yes, all OE and OE gaskets. They ran like $150 through the dealer for all 3 lines and 2 gaskets. I’ll have to dig through some paperwork to confirm, but I’ll look.
Edit:
Found the part numbers, these are for a 2000 Land Cruiser
77251-60690 Tube, Fuel Main
77255-60610 Tube, Fuel Return
77261-60310 Tube, Fuel Tank
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 29, 2022
Messages
61
Location
Charleston, SC
Finally got my replacement trailer harness from cruiser parts, and got it installed. Man, what a mess my old one was… previous owner had backed into something with the old one and broke it all up. I made it work till I could get a replacement.

View attachment 3123085

View attachment 3123086
apparently I had a blonde moment... the old connector had a 7 pin to 4-5 pin adaptor in it that was broken. it was stuck in there pretty well and it was broken inside the OEM plug itself so it wasn't obvious (to me). I got the new one. put in after searching for months to even find it, just to find out that the original was never broken to begin with. guess I have an extra now
 
Joined
Apr 29, 2022
Messages
61
Location
Charleston, SC
can you link me to this?
thank you
to the OEM replacement I bought? I got it from cruiser parts. they didn't have one when I first started talking to them so I ordered an aftermarket just so I could tow with lights. I talked back and forth with them for a while and they could no longer source the part I bought, and then finally they had an OEM used one that they found and shipped it to me. I didn't want to spend the money on a new OEM they were crazy expensive for what does. sometimes its easier to call or email about a part from them as their website takes a while to learn how to use. super knowledgeable guys though. all this only to realize 20 min after I replaced it that it was never broken to begin with lol.
 
Joined
Oct 27, 2017
Messages
69
Location
Seattle
Little plasti dip don't hurt no one :) I sort of want that alpha garage grille.. but the reviews are kind of all over the place..

20220926_191047.jpg
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
131
Location
NW Arkansas
295/70R18 installed today. Did the pinch weld mod but haven’t messed w/ washer fluid cover or reformed the plastic in front of the pinch weld. No rubbing that I can feel/hear or see since driving ~30 miles day 1. Will keep an eye. For sure noticeably taller, thankfully. In high mode it looks awesome. Will likely adjust sensors once I have techstream up and running. Also have AHC fluid in route but taking forever to arrive. Ride is still great, so the posts I’ve read make sense to me now. A bit firmer but a good firm. Seems like the perfect size for the LX. I had 285/65R18 on my LC and they did seem a hair small.

Oh, finally finished the ARB bumper install too. That took a long time w/ just me and also having a newborn.

Lots of other little things I’ve done since purchasing last month. More to come. So happy to be back in a 100.

F05AF0C0-B40C-409C-B7FB-A595D490D954.png
 
Joined
May 12, 2020
Messages
275
Location
Birmingham, AL
FC876A6F-3747-49B9-98A5-7F5835A1D671.jpeg

69219298-4894-43E6-AF51-ADD4468AA08F.jpeg



Changed out the cracked OEM corner full of mud to a clear corner with an amber bulb. 👍👍
 

Bisho

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 24, 2014
Messages
798
Location
Azle, TX

YezusLX

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 28, 2021
Messages
611
Location
ATL Shawty
IF those are the cheap Chinese corners, I recommend you spray them with a clear UV protection paint. Otherwise they will be yellow and foggy in 18 months. Ask me how I know...
How do you know so much? Pics or it didn't happen. Please, sir.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom