What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (29 Viewers)

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Installed the new bumpers! Gah, do I ever need wheels and tires now.. I've got some OEM pieces for sale if anyone needs them.
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Jackery explorer 300 Solar Saga 100 panel getting 94watts.

Skydio2

Love this set up.

Sick vids soon to come. Went out on a night run

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Can't wait to see the vids.

Did you have any drone experience before Skydio 2? I would love to have one and they are on sale right now. I'm debating if I need to get a low-cost drone to learn on before getting like your setup. I understand it will follow your vehicle and avoid obstacles on the trail.
 
Can't wait to see the vids.

Did you have any drone experience before Skydio 2? I would love to have one and they are on sale right now. I'm debating if I need to get a low-cost drone to learn on before getting like your setup. I understand it will follow your vehicle and avoid obstacles on the trail.
Been operating drones (both rotary and fixed-wing) for several years now and I'd say it would be best to shell out some $$$ to get a higher end drone like his Skydio, Autel, Yuneec (not my favorite but still good), DJI, etc... You don't have to go out and blow $5k+, but the $1k-2.5k range has some awesome options. Don't even bother with the cheaper ones thinking you are going to use them to practice. The nicer drones have very sophisticated obstacle avoidance systems that make them very hard to crash. Of course it can still be done, but the visual and ultrasonic sensors that are used are excellent. They are also incredibly stable because the on-board computer systems are taking millions of data points per second and adjusting power output to each motor to keep it level through flight. I have several videos where I've clipped a tree (I sometimes run with obstacle avoidance off so I can get into tight areas without computer interference) and the drone fights it's way loose without plummeting to the ground. The cheaper counterparts don't have these sophisticated systems and are therefor much more difficult to operate, especially hovering in place. Just my opinion!
 
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Been operating drones (both rotary and fixed-wing) for several years now and I'd say it would be best to shell out some $$$ to get a higher end drone like his Skydio, Autel, Yuneec (not my favorite but still good), DJI, etc... You don't have to go out and blow $5k+, but the $1k-2.5k range has some awesome options. Don't even bother with the cheaper ones thinking you are going to use them to practice. The nicer drones have very sophisticated obstacle avoidance systems that make them very hard to crash. Of course it can still be done, but the visual and ultrasonic sensors that are used are excellent. They are also incredibly stabile because the on-board computer systems are taking millions of data points per second and adjusting power output to each motor to keep it level through flight. I have several videos where I've clipped a tree (I sometimes run with obstacle avoidance off so I can get into tight areas without computer interference) and the drone fights it's way loose without plummeting to the ground. The cheaper counterparts don't have these sophisticated systems and are therefor much more difficult to operate, especially hovering in place.
Good to know. Thank you!
 
Can't wait to see the vids.

Did you have any drone experience before Skydio 2? I would love to have one and they are on sale right now. I'm debating if I need to get a low-cost drone to learn on before getting like your setup. I understand it will follow your vehicle and avoid obstacles on the trail.
Yes I had a mavic pro and on my second flight lost it in. I didnt have obsticle avoidance on since i was on a certain mode. Got stuck on a huge pine tree lmao. With the Skydio 2 took me a few time to trust it. Worth the money for sure I had to wait 2mo to receive it.
 
Looks like the DC Power alternator has shat the bed again :skull:
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Sound proofing materials installed on my doors and replaced all plastic anchors for the door card.
Used Resonix CLD, Blackhole Tiles, Resonix CCF.
Greased the driveshaft with NGLI2 Lithium Moly.

Installed 3M thinsulate for sound proofing and thermal insulation on wheel wells and second row to rear.

Resonix CLD tiles on wheel wells and 3M EDM1029 “CLD” on the rear. Complete sound deadening completed.

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This is a DC Power custom made 270A alternator that was refurbished with new bearings and new voltage regulator this summer. It used to read a steady 14.1v but yesterday I read 15.1v and that is definitely too high!

what should it typically read?

On our hundy's startup voltage should be 14.2, with a diode mod (for AGM batteries) 14.7, 15 is too high, you'll cook any battery at that voltage.
 
Truck was beginning to run a little hot.
Replaced the (I'm guessing) original thermostat and then topped off with coolant. No longer running hot but temp gauge sits a hair above center. Radiator is probably next to go. Anyone done an aluminum with twin fans?

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Truck was beginning to run a little hot.
Replaced the (I'm guessing) original thermostat and then topped off with coolant. No longer running hot but temp gauge sits a hair above center. Radiator is probably next to go. Anyone done an aluminum with twin fans?

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If you can get your hands on an OEM radiator go that route. These trucks are regularly abused in 110°+ desert heat overseas. The OEM cooling system is more than adequate to handle any climate in the USA. Do a thorough cleaning and flush of the entire system
 
Truck was beginning to run a little hot.
Replaced the (I'm guessing) original thermostat and then topped off with coolant. No longer running hot but temp gauge sits a hair above center. Radiator is probably next to go. Anyone done an aluminum with twin fans?

I haven't tried an aluminum radiator, but I have tried twin fans. It didn't work out great for me in AZ, but perhaps I need bigger fans and a new radiator.

This past summer, my LX was doing fine when I was driving, but if I got in a drive-thru line at a fast-food restaurant the temperatures would skyrocket until the AC shut off and the temps would then stabilize. That's not great when it's 115 degrees outside. I made a custom fan shroud and installed electric fans, but I had a different problem. The truck did just fine idling at a fast-food restaurant with the AC on, but it would run hot when driving. I switched back to the original fan, and I've decided to start eating healthier. If not for my health, for the health of my LX. I suspect that I could use a new radiator and/or a good flush.
 
I haven't tried an aluminum radiator, but I have tried twin fans. It didn't work out great for me in AZ, but perhaps I need bigger fans and a new radiator.

This past summer, my LX was doing fine when I was driving, but if I got in a drive-thru line at a fast-food restaurant the temperatures would skyrocket until the AC shut off and the temps would then stabilize. That's not great when it's 115 degrees outside. I made a custom fan shroud and installed electric fans, but I had a different problem. The truck did just fine idling at a fast-food restaurant with the AC on, but it would run hot when driving. I switched back to the original fan, and I've decided to start eating healthier. If not for my health, for the health of my LX. I suspect that I could use a new radiator and/or a good flush.
Sound like you need a new fan clutch, not that I'm trying to enable your drive through habit.
 
Sound like you need a new fan clutch, not that I'm trying to enable your drive through habit.
Thanks for the input. Is there a good way to test the fan clutch to confirm if it's not fully engaging before throwing parts at it?
 
Thanks for the input. Is there a good way to test the fan clutch to confirm if it's not fully engaging before throwing parts at it?
If you didn't hear your fan get a lot louder before it got hot enough to shut down your a/c, then it isn't working. It's simply a mechanical device that uses a viscous fluid. I think if you search the forum you'll find ways to test it.
 
If you didn't hear your fan get a lot louder before it got hot enough to shut down your a/c, then it isn't working. It's simply a mechanical device that uses a viscous fluid. I think if you search the forum you'll find ways to test it.

It does get louder, but only when the RPM raises above an idle. As soon as it starts driving slowly, the temps come down. That's what made me think the clutch was good, but maybe it's just on its way out.
 

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