What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (63 Viewers)

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Thanks for your feedback. I'd like to maintain my AHC for as long as possible as I do think it's a pretty sweet suspension. My only concern is how well it is going to handle all of the added weight, but I know there are some things that I can do to fix that.

If my AHC were to crap out and repairing the system is not cost effective, it sounds like the Raids are up my alley based on your feedback. I'll definitely keep them in mind.
@Wesley Crusher I'm still running AHC with front bumper, rear bumper, winch, sliders, RTT, fridge and shelving/drawers. Since the suspension spring rate is shared by the steel spring (coil in rear, torsion bar in front) and with the hydraulic pressure, adding weight requires increasing spring force to the steel part in order to keep the hydraulic pressure in spec. King springs aim to do exactly this.

My truck is quite a bit heavier than stock (7440 lbs full loaded). I opted to source some used 80/100 rear springs. This brought my AHC pressures into spec when the truck is fully burdened. Ride remains fantastic.

One note about changing out the stock springs. When I stripped down the truck (no RTT, fridge, drawers, sliders) the ride became terrible. The rear was way over sprung and the shock dampening was almost completely absent. Added back the weight and ride was wonderful again. King springs are rated right between stock AHC and stock 100 so should be a great option for your expected weight.
 
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Explored some of the beautiful Tillamook forest. All FS roads so it was an easy drive.


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For both not hard at all, had a plan going in. Modified as the install progressed to what made more sense. The vline was suoer easy. The hardest part was popping the faux wood grain panels off the stereo, they were on tight and didnt want to break any tabs. Ran the mic and GPS antenna up the passenger A pillar and tucked the wires top of the windscreen and headliner. The rammount super easy also did a little cutting of the seat bracket cover and the aluminum rod easy is to bend by hand to the desired shape. Also put the base in my vice and slowly hammered to about a slight 45deg so that it would mount flat with the floor. The longest of everything was after the vLine install was sitting in my driveway downloading all the updates and setting up my accounts for music access. Still getting used to it but I really like the BT connectivity, access to my google music account, and I can still use my factory CD changer.
How hard was the install?
 
started pulling the alternator out from underneath on my rusty '99. Rusty bolts suck! After you break them loose though its so simple even a 15 Y/O can do it
 
How’s the vline 2?
I really like, I am still getting used to having it and have not used it for any navigation. But over all not bad. The only issue I have is the initial set up was frustrating when signing into my accounts. You have to be precise when pressing the keyboard keys on the touch screen especially if you have sausage fingers, didn't try using a stylus pen that may help though. But after that it's been treating me really well. I access my google music account, pandora and youtube if needed off my mobile hotspot or you can just run BT. I can also control track selection off my steering wheel button.
 
What was a simple diff oil flush and fill, turned out to be diff cleanup and detail. Good way also to inspect other parts like bushings, tension on e-brake cable and other stuff than can compound in the future.
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Replaced my perfectly fine original rear wiper arm with this new one everyone is gaga over. At $12 I don't regret it, but considering it needed physical modification to hug the glass and the likelihood of the plastic to fade quickly, I wouldn't have paid any more for it.

Also pulled my center dash vents out to try to find a rattle from what seems to be inside my dash. Any thoughts what it could be? It just became prominent in the last month or two but is usually drowned out by tunes.



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The 315/75/r16 experiment came to a conclusion yesterday! Switched back to 33 KO2's, this time in 285/75/r16 (previous 33 was 285/65/r18). Couple of things I noticed at 35's...

1. I LOVED the stance and look. It was just beefy, aggressive, and looked like it could tame everything.
2. The size and weight of the extra rubber is abundantly present. Steering, how components felt, acceleration, shifting, everything felt more sluggish or took more effort to throw the 35's around... obviously. The first thing I noticed when the 33's went on was how light and easy it was to steer.
3. Off-road, the 35's roll over everything with ease. It's also a much smoother and comfortable experience.

The reason I went back to 33's was longevity of vehicle components, and not worrying about flexing too much. It's overall just an easier tire size to live with. The reason I went back to KO2's specifically are because of Colorado winters. I'm not sure I would've enjoyed KM3's on snow-packed roads :) If anyone is looking to try them out, I'm selling the KM3's. Stay tuned for the On-Board Air system I'm reworking.
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What was a simple diff oil flush and fill, turned out to be diff cleanup and detail. Good way also to inspect other parts like bushings, tension on e-brake cable and other stuff than can compound in the future.View attachment 2050989
Degreaser or did you wipe everything down manually?
 
What was a simple diff oil flush and fill, turned out to be diff cleanup and detail. Good way also to inspect other parts like bushings, tension on e-brake cable and other stuff than can compound in the future.View attachment 2050989
Looks great!
 
Fixed a rattle under the dash. It sounded like a piece of metal flashing rattling around, by my feet. Turns out my ABS controller was just sitting in the bracket with nothing holding in on.

Couple of M6 nuts from HD, with some washers from the basement and back in business.

Contemplated using presta nuts since I have a million of them kicking around and they're M6, but spent the $2 on real hardware.

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Fixed a rattle under the dash. It sounded like a piece of metal flashing rattling around, by my feet. Turns out my ABS controller was just sitting in the bracket with nothing holding in on.

Couple of M6 nuts from HD, with some washers from the basement and back in business.

Contemplated using presta nuts since I have a million of them kicking around and they're M6, but spent the $2 on real hardware.

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Look on the bright side, your master cylinder was probably rebuilt or replaced, no other reason to go down there and remove those that i can think of.
 
I noticed while driving back from the beach that the heater knob dial for the HVAC was waaaaay off and when turned to the highest heat setting the arrow was off the chart.

I was able to pull the knob off easily and tighten the screw to secure it firmly, the other two directional knobs were also loose so I pulled the knob off and tightened the screw. The knobs feel sooo much more smooth and firm now.
 
Might be the hybrid part of your engine ;)
Also pulled my center dash vents out to try to find a rattle from what seems to be inside my dash. Any thoughts what it could be? It just became prominent in the last month or two but is usually drowned out by tunes.



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