Cut skid plates off to get to the transmission to replace the pan gasket (hopefully the trans.pan gasket and not the rear main). after over decade of hard wheeling the plate is a bit, Bent (lol) . I'm going to have the machine shop's hydraulic press make it flat and have 3ribs/angle iron welded on to stiffen it up.
Got the compressor installed, took me longer than it should have but it's secure and the chopped up harness worked fine. We'll see if cheaping out on the single cylinder was a mistake.
Its really easy. After measuring camber you turn the steering 20° then rezero, then turn back the 20° plus an additional 20°, then multiply the reading by 1.5. This gives you the caster measurement.
It seems really accurate. I swapped the frames from one side to the other and got the exact same measurements.
After I lifted the GX I did a half-ass alignment. I got the toe and camber set, but the caster was way off. It ran down the road straight, but the steering felt a bit "floaty" and it really didn't return to straight. After I played with it more and got some -caster it feels a lot better
I dropped my 87 off at my buddies shop in Abq to be repainted yesterday. The clearcoat on the hood and roof has completely burned off. He's also going to address the two rust bubbles that I have found. He quoted me a bro deal at $2700.
I've worked with this guy for going on 10 years. I have seen some of the cars hes painted and the work coming out of his shop over the years I'm looking forward to it.
He is a chevy guy but knowbody is perfect.
IMHO, I'm getting a killer deal with good paint done by a person I trust with a verbal lifetime warranty. I had a hard time leaving the Cruiser in Abq but his shop is near the Atomic Museum and he assured me it would be fine locked behind his gate at least two cars deep. In his yard.
E
I rebuilt the parking brakes on the 4th gen 4runner. It was not fun. I adjusted them but it's still not tight enough. I think I stretched the cable leaving it engaged in my garage for a few weeks. Now I have to take off the center console and adjust the cable.
I rebuilt the parking brakes on the 4th gen 4runner. It was not fun. I adjusted them but it's still not tight enough. I think I stretched the cable leaving it engaged in my garage for a few weeks. Now I have to take off the center console and adjust the cable.
The foot lever pulls on a cable that splits under the center console to the two rear parking brakes. The adjustment nut is underneath where the gear selector is.
The foot lever pulls on a cable that splits under the center console to the two rear parking brakes. The adjustment nut is underneath where the gear selector is.
Geez Mr. Toyota, what were you thinking with that insane routing through the center console from a foot pedal parking brake? Glad you told me. Mine feels sloppy and the pedal goes almost to the floor.
Cut skid plates off to get to the transmission to replace the pan gasket (hopefully the trans.pan gasket and not the rear main). after over decade of hard wheeling the plate is a bit, Bent (lol) . I'm going to have the machine shop's hydraulic press make it flat and have 3ribs/angle iron welded on to stiffen it up.
Geez Mr. Toyota, what were you thinking with that insane routing through the center console from a foot pedal parking brake? Glad you told me. Mine feels sloppy and the pedal goes almost to the floor.
Yeah man there is a YouTube video showing it taken apart. I'm just going to combine it with a seat removal and deep clean, and I also need to put a few buttons in my center console anyway.
I started taking apart my Scion to install the new front struts and found my oil leak. Not sure how long it's been going on but I did know about it when I started seeing it on the ground. Looks like it's on the timing chain side in the back near a sensor. Does anyone have a clue what it could be?
UPDATE - It's the timing chain tensioner leaking. No big deal, common on the 1.8 liter. The question is whether or not I have room to get in there and replace it....
One of the lower UCA in the rear was tired after a decade of abuse. The bushing "eye" was opening up due to metal fatigue and weld/heat stress. Removing the actual LCA was a royal PITA. The bushing sleeve inside bonded with the bolt and didn't want to come out so the gas torch did it's thing. After melting the bushings, the arm moved out of the way enough to use a cutoff wheel to cut the bolt on both sides. These adjustable links are using solid rods, I found out. I'll upgrade the bushing eyes with thicker wall units after removal of the current thinner wall bushing eyes.
I don't know how much toxic gas came out of these non rubber bushings but thankfully it was a super windy day during this fun process .
One of the lower UCA in the rear was tired after a decade of abuse. The bushing "eye" was opening up due to metal fatigue and weld/heat stress. Removing the actual LCA was a royal PITA. The bushing sleeve inside bonded with the bolt and didn't want to come out so the gas torch did it's thing. After melting the bushings, the arm moved out of the way enough to use a cutoff wheel to cut the bolt on both sides. These adjustable links are using solid rods, I found out. I'll upgrade the bushing eyes with thicker wall units after removal of the current thinner wall bushing eyes.
I don't know how much toxic gas came out of these non rubber bushings but thankfully it was a super windy day during this fun process .
identified damaged caused by skid plate damage from over a decade of abuse. Front skid plate jack hammered itself into the Aft part of the frame of the lower control arm bracket. Next on the list is to get that repaired with some welding. "Play Hard Pay Hard"