Cannon88
In the duck blind...
That white liner looks great from the pics. Nice job!
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (70 Viewers)
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jeffro109 said:
Words to mod by. I adhere to, or attempt to.
Can take this elsewhere, but will add to the thread content so not completely off topic.
I've talked to several pro sprayers and they claim a top coat is necessary to prevent yellowing, but top coat isn't nearly as durable, plus costs a fortune.
In your research (sounds like you over analyze like I do) is the UV protector capable of preventing, completely?
Really want to line the whole thing white, but have been concerned about. After a recent outing, even more concerned about just painting.
As promised, not mine but extracted rusty studs from a 94.
Spent ten hours removing exhaust, to install EMS on said 94.
The folks at Magnet Paints claim 100% UV stable...maybe you could ask member 'magnetman' for more details, he is a rep of the company. I picked monstaliner for the long work time that it gives, and good reviews of UV stable.
There is another member who did part of a 60 series in black liner, same product, I just used a tint-able rather than pre-mixed color. They have not seen fading in the product with no top coat and live in a very hot/sunny location, somewhere like California or Vegas.
I sent magnetman a feedback message on their products, I had lots of bits of the roller coming off and a much faster setup time than their info suggests, leading to lots of goobers in the mix. When I used the auto paint for the redo of the lower portions, it worked much better and was a lot smoother. I also used some rollers from Home Depot since I was out of the supplied rollers, those had a few bits come off but overall much less.
Those bolts look nasty...I spent about an hour on each bolt to the y-pipe to replace the gaskets at the exhaust manifold. I found heating them till completely glowing red hot and soft with the welder was the fastest way to break them loose after the heads came off.
There is another member who did part of a 60 series in black liner, same product, I just used a tint-able rather than pre-mixed color. They have not seen fading in the product with no top coat and live in a very hot/sunny location, somewhere like California or Vegas.
I sent magnetman a feedback message on their products, I had lots of bits of the roller coming off and a much faster setup time than their info suggests, leading to lots of goobers in the mix. When I used the auto paint for the redo of the lower portions, it worked much better and was a lot smoother. I also used some rollers from Home Depot since I was out of the supplied rollers, those had a few bits come off but overall much less.
Those bolts look nasty...I spent about an hour on each bolt to the y-pipe to replace the gaskets at the exhaust manifold. I found heating them till completely glowing red hot and soft with the welder was the fastest way to break them loose after the heads came off.
I just finished PMing mine for my trek through Baja, MX. Unfortunately I broke one of the rear axle hub studs 
(not wheel stud) so I had to order them so I can replace them this week. Now I need to complete all the pre trip plans and pull the rear axle out again and then fight with the broken stud. I will replace all of the studs on that axle. No reason it should have broke as I had a properly set torque wrench on it when it gave up. So glad I get to "work" from home.
Incidentally, I have only owned my 80 for a year and had no service history on it. When I pulled the rear axle out and checked the bearings, there was absolutely no wheel bearing grease to be found. The only lubrication was being supplied by diff oil from a failed axle seal. The bearings looked fine and I reused them, but I doubt they would have held up on a 2000 mile trip off-road through Baja with all the load I will have on board with no wheel bearing grease.
With all the talk on here about front axle service, you don't hear much about the rear. the rear axle seal replacement and wheel bearing repack is a
job, so if you haven't done it, get to it.
(not wheel stud) so I had to order them so I can replace them this week. Now I need to complete all the pre trip plans and pull the rear axle out again and then fight with the broken stud. I will replace all of the studs on that axle. No reason it should have broke as I had a properly set torque wrench on it when it gave up. So glad I get to "work" from home.Incidentally, I have only owned my 80 for a year and had no service history on it. When I pulled the rear axle out and checked the bearings, there was absolutely no wheel bearing grease to be found. The only lubrication was being supplied by diff oil from a failed axle seal. The bearings looked fine and I reused them, but I doubt they would have held up on a 2000 mile trip off-road through Baja with all the load I will have on board with no wheel bearing grease.
With all the talk on here about front axle service, you don't hear much about the rear. the rear axle seal replacement and wheel bearing repack is a
job, so if you haven't done it, get to it.
Funner, maybe worth replacing the studs with the 105 series 10mm studs and nuts. I think Cdan and Beno can get them.
Had a friend lower my 96 on Photoshop 
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Had a friend lower my 96 on Photoshop
Looks bagged.
Sent from my hawn finga using IH8MUD
Thanks! I really like how the re-do of the lower part turned out with the color match.
Mattnatti
See a Doctor and get rid of it.
Are you coming to the gathering in Sparta that ACC and Lowe Toyota are sponsoring in November?
Would love to see the monstaliner in person.
I would consider it if I had more time. I am on the road for work this week and I am leaving next week. I just don't have time to drill, tap and source them in time and allow any extra time for an oh crap moment in the middle of the upgrade. If something went wrong, I would be
.I had the same problem with goobers. Tried to pick as many out as I could while I went along, but still ended up with a lot of them. Kind of irks me.
I also had major problems with the supplied rollers. If you get a sec, would you mind linking to the ones you bought on the home depot site?
What do you mean by "auto paint"? I'm contemplating ordering a couple more gallons and have been trying to work out how to get it on smoother. The first parts I did look awesome, but you can almost tell the order I applied it in by counting goobers. The last parts I did (front fender and driver door) look pretty sh*tty.
I doubt it, did not know about it actually. My work schedule is going to be nuts for the rest of the year. Hope Will and crew have a great event though.
The rollers at Home Depot are for their "Restore" deck coating, at the end of the isle in the paint department. There is a 4 inch roller kit on the website, "Restore 4 in. roller Kit 4 piece" but my local store only had some regular size 9 inch rollers so I got one of those and cut two 4 inch pieces to fit on the supplied Monstaliner kit roller rather than buying and trashing another roller.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...&langId=-1&keyword=restore+deck&storeId=10051
By auto paint, I mean the color portion of automotive paint. There are instructions mentioned in one thread around here for tinting the stuff your own color. Basically you go into the auto paint supply place and ask for just the colors of whatever paint code to properly color a gallon of basecoat, no water based or laquer based stuff, leave out any reducers/binders. After some head scratching from behind the counter, some discussions of zeroing out stuff, I ended up with a little $15 can with about 8-10 oz of color in it, which is close to the size of the monstaliner tints which are a half pint.
I dumped that in the mix (after testing a very very small mix to see if it was all going to go to hell at the instruction of the paint store lady, as she could not promise all the materials would work together). It ended up being a really good match.
I sanded down the goobers and roller bits (high pointy spots) and the entire surface with 180 grit before I did the coats with auto paint too.
See post #15 in this other thread for specific instructions from magnetman on tinting your own.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=6878137&postcount=15
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word of caution on the Restore rollers...they are a much more open cell/weave than the Monstaliner rollers so you can load up the liner more and end up with too much in a small area you are rolling and get runs.
I did not get any runs, but did have to work a few heavy places out when I first started with them.
I also think that due to the more open construction, you won't get as rough of a surface as the monstaliner rollers, though perhaps if you went back over it when it was nearing its setup you could get a more textured look. I wanted smoother and just rolled it on and moved on, did not do a another rolling as suggested in the instructions. Some of that may be due to using auto paint tint rather than the supplied kit tints though too.
I did not get any runs, but did have to work a few heavy places out when I first started with them.
I also think that due to the more open construction, you won't get as rough of a surface as the monstaliner rollers, though perhaps if you went back over it when it was nearing its setup you could get a more textured look. I wanted smoother and just rolled it on and moved on, did not do a another rolling as suggested in the instructions. Some of that may be due to using auto paint tint rather than the supplied kit tints though too.
Polar Bear
Is it supposed to sound like that?
From my painting days long ago, the longer the nap on the roller the more stippling (texture) you get. Run a quality roller skin from purty or Wooster in a 3/8"nap if you want a smoother finish. 5/8" and up if you want a heavier texture. Using a high quality skin will prevent shedding. Just remember to keep your roller skin wet, as when they start to dry out, the substrate you are applying to will rip the nap off the roller.
If you are having problems with runs, work the excess off your roller and back roll the problem area before it starts to tack up (getting back to shedding problems).
Good luck!
If you are having problems with runs, work the excess off your roller and back roll the problem area before it starts to tack up (getting back to shedding problems).
Good luck!
Hmm...I wonder if this is what was causing the rollers to disintegrate.
These aren't normal rollers with fuzzy nap, they're almost like a sponge with really huge cells, if that makes sense. The pot time for Monstaliner is supposed to be 5 to 6 hours (per the installation manual), but in my experience the stuff sets up to cured silicone consistency in well under 2 hours.
I didn't think about tackiness stressing the rollers, but it definitely gets very thick, very fast.
93yotasr5
Come and take it
That how my rig looked when I got her. 315s on factory height!!! Looks great imo
