What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (27 Viewers)

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Shenanigans

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Post in thread 'The misadventures of Charlie Sh*t Brindle Brown' The misadventures of Charlie Sh*t Brindle Brown - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-misadventures-of-charlie-sh-t-brindle-brown.1252243/post-15440359
 
Knuckle rebuild. I started with the hard side first, p/o welded the high steer bracket to the front of the steering arm and welded a gusset to the back side making it impossible to service, 20 minutes with a grinder later and I’m halfway home.

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Second pic is the weld, third pic is the free steering arm, 4th pic is the gusset, then the awkward angle to get that cut off, and then finally FREEDOM!!!
 
Spent like 2 hrs underneath her inspecting and torquing key nuts-n-bolts after 3rs of washboard driving last weekend. Wits-End nut huggers provided peace of mind. All dialed in….ready for whatever is next.
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Welded up my down pipe for the turbo. Don’t judge the welds it’s literally my second time welding and first time welding thin exhaust. Only blew through one time and was able to recover. I’m a fan of DIY and this was worth the effort big learning curve.

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Welded up my down pipe for the turbo. Don’t judge the welds it’s literally my second time welding and first time welding thin exhaust. Only blew through one time and was able to recover. I’m a fan of DIY and this was worth the effort big learning curve.

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Hell yeah, no judgements here, welding thin metal sucks. Practice practice practice.
 
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Put in some Rosen visors and rewrapped the steering wheel with the loncky tan kit. Picked up a set of escape seat covers for the lx450 when equipt1.com had there spring open house. Seat covers fit great. Now just debating on what sliders to get slee or metal tech or 4plus products.

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Whiteknuckle not in the running? Asking because I am in that same eval mode, and keep coming back to Whiteknuckle in terms of value, style and wanting a non-weld install.
 
Returned from the first "long" trip since the HG job. About 650 miles total down to the Texas Hill Country and back to Dallas, providing some post-op care for my father-in-law after his heart surgery. It was a beautiful time to be in the Hill Country.
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The truck performed flawlessly, lots of highway miles running between 70 and 80 mph, much of which with the AC blowing full blast. She didn't even skip beat.

Once we got back home, I changed the oil and continued on the quest to track down the root cause of a code 52 (knock sensor signal). I replaced the ECT gauge sensor and the connector, since all that plastic literally crumbled in my hands as I was messing with the knock sensor wiring harness.

I cleaned and re-seated the connectors to both knock sensors. I have also replaced both knock sensors. I'll try to get some highway miles on the truck in the next couple of days to see if the CEL goes away. If not, then I guess I'm going to have to look at replacing the knock sensor connectors and/or wiring.

If any of you Mudders have chased down this code 52 issue in the past and have some advice I am all ears.
 
Made up some plates and did an EGR delete this afternoon. All that's left to do is add a ground strap and do a little clean up. Although you can't see them in the last pic, I did re-route the vacuum hoses.

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This is near the top of my to do list. Already halfway there with my aftermarket headers and hudd expo test plug. I am going to start collecting parts for this, fuel filter, plugs and wires, and new belts, along with some other stuff.

Let us know how it affects performance and mpg's in a month or so.
 
This is near the top of my to do list. Already halfway there with my aftermarket headers and hudd expo test plug. I am going to start collecting parts for this, fuel filter, plugs and wires, and new belts, along with some other stuff.

Let us know how it affects performance and mpg's in a month or so.

I would certainly be happy to report back on the effects, but I just got the vehicle, so I don't really have anything to base it against. Also, it might be a while before I can test it out. I'm not going to be driving the vehicle until I get my leaky injector pump fixed.
 
I would certainly be happy to report back on the effects, but I just got the vehicle, so I don't really have anything to base it against. Also, it might be a while before I can test it out. I'm not going to be driving the vehicle until I get my leaky injector pump fixed.
Well no rush. Just let us know when you get some miles on the rig.
 
I foresee a ratcheting tap handle or tap sockets in your future after making it happen a 1/4 turn at a time.

Was your caliper just being held on by the lower bolt if the top was stripped out? Or did it strip out on the way out?
The upper bolt was still in place, so maybe it was containing some radial load - but it was not clamping at all. The tap was a "special" size - it was just too large to fit into an 11mm 12 point socket, and too loose in a 12mm. I just applied aggression and profanity and got it done in the usual manner.
 

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