What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (58 Viewers)

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Just to be clear, I think he meant weld the holes in the bumper shut and then drill new ones in the bumper that will line up with the existing frame holes.

Yes, this is what I meant. This method would allow you to use the existing threaded holes in the frame.

I guess I could drill through and put bolts all the way through the frame rail. Good idea.

But I also think this would work if you can manage to reach the outside of the frame rail and access the hardware going through the frame for a through bolt configuration.


Either way this sucks that your bumper doesn't fit. It is BS that 4x4 labs told you to wallow out the holes. If you do that and get a good hit to your rear end chances are the bumper will slide forward and damage the fenders. It might even cause the hardware to shear and lead to increased damage instead of protecting the rig like it was designed.

Personally I would not be happy if I were in your shoes. I would likely be asking for a refund and looking at a delta vs or slee bumper instead.
 
Yes, this is what I meant. This method would allow you to use the existing threaded holes in the frame.



But I also think this would work if you can manage to reach the outside of the frame rail and access the hardware going through the frame for a through bolt configuration.


Either way this sucks that your bumper doesn't fit. It is BS that 4x4 labs told you to wallow out the holes. If you do that and get a good hit to your rear end chances are the bumper will slide forward and damage the fenders. It might even cause the hardware to shear and lead to increased damage instead of protecting the rig like it was designed.

Personally I would not be happy if I were in your shoes. I would likely be asking for a refund and looking at a delta vs or slee bumper instead.
AVID offroad! Similar to 4x4labs AND spend the saved $$ on a winch.
 
It’s such a minuscule amount off. Not enough to lay blame on a manufacturer if you ask me. Make the hole slightly oblong and move on would be my move.
 
The fasteners, in this application, are used to create a friction fit between the frame rails and the bumper. They bolts are not really being used in shear and would not unless there were an accident that caused the bumper to shift so enlarging them will create marginal issues. This is typical for all assemblies, otherwise it would have to be absolutely perfect for the bolt to be in shear the entire time. Additionally, the harder the fastener, the tighter the clamping force between the two materials. If you want greater clamping force you go to a larger bolt to increase the clamped area of the joint. This can also be done by using larger/thicker washers which spread out the clamped area.

Finally, if you want it strong, welding is the only way to go. That said, it is more or less permanent.
 
Rear brakes this morning before the temps hit 105, did the fronts last Sunday. Now I can pack and get a few groceries for tomorrow's camping trip to the Needles range in SW Ut.

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Last weekend on the trail the CDL indicator switch decided to stop indicating. Actually it had been intermittent ever since I bought the truck 12 years ago but usually never took more than two tries to get it to illuminate.

A quick search on MUD brought up the Beck/Arnley replacement and a few days later the part was in my hands. Then I spent all of about 10 minutes swapping out the switch.

Thanks MUD!

CDL Indicator Sw.jpg
 
Was an unusually slow Friday work-wise, so decided to start the weekend a little early.

First job: attaching the little tri-color badge I found online to the grill. The three little holes in my grill where the "turbo" badge would attach on an HDJ bug me every time I look at the front of the truck. I toyed with getting a turbo badge just to fill the holes, but as mine is not a diesel and I don't plan on ever adding a turbo charger, I balked at the idea of false advertising, lol. Saw this little badge, and the measurements seemed right, so picked it up.
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InkedIMG_20210625_142818293_LI.jpg

It fits! I had to drill one new hole and enlarge one of the existing holes. Bolts on tight, covers the holes and adds a little vintage 'Yota flare, IMO. If you look reeeaallly close, you can still see a portion of one of the original badge holes peeking out on the far left, but overall I'm pleased for an $11 upgrade.

Job #2: replacing the charcoal canister and finally getting rid of the fuel smell and the pressure release at the gas cap. I went with the ACDelco 215-153 vs. the VC120 because it had connections for all three hoses, and from what I've read in the many MUD threads on this topic, it seems to fit a little better and require less modification. Snagged it for $69.95 on an AMZN prime day deal.
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All in all it was a very easy job. As other Mudders have recommended, I got some 3/8" I.D. fuel line since the vapor hose connector on the 215-153 is on top, vs. the OEM canister that connects on the bottom. I had to bend the brackets a little and use a longer bolt to get the unit installed securely. I just used a zip tie on the bottom bracket to keep it from rattling and rubbing against wires. The bolted top bracket holds the canister very securely, and it is not budging. Here's the finished install:
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Once installed, I ran a few errands (beer run! 🍻) for about an hour in the 90 degree heat. Last stop was to gas up, and sure enough no pressure release at all at the gas cap! And no more strong fuel smell.

Job #3: pop open one of those newly acquired beers!

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Well - finally got to it after 10 years of doing nothing (and not even driving)

the PHH wasn’t that bad, but to get that tension clamp off which is facing the firewall took some ingenuity. Got it out. Now to finish removing the other big hoses and remove the throttle body to get to the other PHH by the throttle body.

my luck had it that BOTH PHH and it’s sibling both leaked. Well better late than never

hoping once I reassemble, run some thermocure, she’ll be ready for that Toyota Red.

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Just to be clear, I think he meant weld the holes in the bumper shut and then drill new ones in the bumper that will line up with the existing frame
WTF
You shouldn't even have to do any mods. That's a lazy azs response without any mention of comp on their end. You waited 10+ weeks and now this?-sorry I feel your pain.
Yah I agree but it is what it is and now the rear cross member is chopped of so no going back. Sucks.
 
Yes, this is what I meant. This method would allow you to use the existing threaded holes in the frame.



But I also think this would work if you can manage to reach the outside of the frame rail and access the hardware going through the frame for a through bolt configuration.


Either way this sucks that your bumper doesn't fit. It is BS that 4x4 labs told you to wallow out the holes. If you do that and get a good hit to your rear end chances are the bumper will slide forward and damage the fenders. It might even cause the hardware to shear and lead to increased damage instead of protecting the rig like it was designed.

Personally I would not be happy if I were in your shoes. I would likely be asking for a refund and looking at a delta vs or slee bumper instead.
Thanks for the responses I am not happy but need my truck and can’t wait another 3 months for another bumper. I’m gonna drill them out and maybe add another through bolt. I need to buy a welder! I am in the middle of selling and buying houses so the timing sucks.
 
Yes, this is what I meant. This method would allow you to use the existing threaded holes in the frame.



But I also think this would work if you can manage to reach the outside of the frame rail and access the hardware going through the frame for a through bolt configuration.


Either way this sucks that your bumper doesn't fit. It is BS that 4x4 labs told you to wallow out the holes. If you do that and get a good hit to your rear end chances are the bumper will slide forward and damage the fenders. It might even cause the hardware to shear and lead to increased damage instead of protecting the rig like it was designed.

Personally I would not be happy if I were in your shoes. I would likely be asking for a refund and looking at a delta vs or slee bumper instead.

A friend of mine and I were some of the beta testers on the DIY kits. The bumper pieces were exactly the same, but the fit on our two cruisers was different. One had much larger gaps between the wings and the main shell. The other fit like a glove. The only thing we could think of was a difference between our two rigs, maybe one was in an unreported wreck. Since we were building them on our cruisers it was pretty easy to deal with. I just mention this to point out it may be his frame being a little different and not the bumper. It could be the bumper, but building them on jigs like they do minimizes that probability.
 
A friend of mine and I were some of the beta testers on the DIY kits. The bumper pieces were exactly the same, but the fit on our two cruisers was different. One had much larger gaps between the wings and the main shell. The other fit like a glove. The only thing we could think of was a difference between our two rigs, maybe one was in an unreported wreck. Since we were building them on our cruisers it was pretty easy to deal with. I just mention this to point out it may be his frame being a little different and not the bumper. It could be the bumper, but building them on jigs like they do minimizes that probability.
My truck def has been in a front wreck that’s how I got it for a decent price but the rear has never been wrecked. I don’t wanna leave that out as option. And I understand every right is different, that’s why I am not throwing a fit and throwing them under the bus they have a great reputation and don’t want to stain it for my bumper not fitting my rig. Thanks for the input.
 

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