thatcabledude
GOLD Star
That dog is in hog heaven
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (48 Viewers)
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Got hit at hardware store by a VW golf. Any insurance claim tips (in CT)?
Look at that bone!!
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Actually, this is not the painters fault, it is the stucco contractor and the proximity of the concrete to water. Efflorescence is caused by two factors, improperly cured stucco or stucco or concrete that is wicking water and causing salts or other chemicals to leach to the surface and causing the paint to blister. This is typical in our market, especially in track homes where stucco was applied in the hottest months. Repainting it will be only a temporary repair, it will blister again and will more than likely pop up in more locations. You can test for proper cure using a concrete or stucco test to see if it is still "hot" from a chemical point of view.
In summer in dry climates, the stucco often dries too fast and cannot properly cure. You can apply stucco here at night or early morning on the shaded side of a home successfully but, once the sun hits it you can have issues. You may see some contractors wetting the wall which will reduce the evaporation and allow the chemical reaction in the system to complete.
There are two homes in our neighborhood where very large sections of the stucco are pulling away from the homes, hundreds of square feet.
In summer in dry climates, the stucco often dries too fast and cannot properly cure. You can apply stucco here at night or early morning on the shaded side of a home successfully but, once the sun hits it you can have issues. You may see some contractors wetting the wall which will reduce the evaporation and allow the chemical reaction in the system to complete.
There are two homes in our neighborhood where very large sections of the stucco are pulling away from the homes, hundreds of square feet.
Dropped the truck off to have the hail damage removed off the roof. Figured I’d clean the interior panels and carpets while it’s out.
My starter motor did the spin but not engage thing a couple of times so I removed it to have a look.
Contacts were in great shape however delved deeper into it and found the reduction gears and plunger were dry of lubricant so cleaned everything and greased all the moving mechanical parts well, put back together and so far so good.
It sounds much quieter now whereas recently would make an audible bang when engaging the plunger to the ring gear.
I do have a spare though in the drawer system but thats an emergency for when out in the bush given its an auto and not manual.
Contacts were in great shape however delved deeper into it and found the reduction gears and plunger were dry of lubricant so cleaned everything and greased all the moving mechanical parts well, put back together and so far so good.
It sounds much quieter now whereas recently would make an audible bang when engaging the plunger to the ring gear.
I do have a spare though in the drawer system but thats an emergency for when out in the bush given its an auto and not manual.
I wish BFG would bring back that Mud tread pattern
Morning, decided to do a re-gear, factory locker install, part time 4wd, and low range gear. It’s going on a few weekends now, haha, but luckily w/ the rain we‘ve been getting this year it’s gotten me unusually more time to wrench on my buggy. Got most of it done, still need the last piece of wiring harness from the kick panel to the actuator plug by the left tail light, and lastly to drop the T-case remove center diff and replace low gear.
Where I live a parking lot accident has no driver at fault and each driver has to make a claim with their own insurance.
So for me I would not be filing a claim for that damage. I would just buy my favorite bumper and move on. Not worth the deductible and increased rates in my opinion.
Ecliff5
SILVER Star
Did you put elocker diffs into open axle housings?
Ecliff5
SILVER Star
Nice work. My buddy is about to tackle this on his rear axle. Locked axle housing got bent so I am giving him an open housing to drop his factory locked diff into. Looks like the rear doesn't need as much cutting as the front. So just trim the housing for the locker and install some longer studs for the most part?
Yup , just as simple as that, use new gasket as a template to trim. Only studs I replaced w longer are the two by the actuator, and also the studs at the 6, and 12 o’clock position. The longer stud at 12:00 definitely helped in persuading the diff housing to its new home, slid together way easier than anticipated by myself
This weekend:
Just coffee at a distant location
Just coffee at a distant location
Looks good! How as the part-time kit install? I'm planning on doing mine before Fall Crawl. Finally getting around to rebuilding my DC shaft so figured I'd do that kit next.
The front hubs are easy, I also installed their ABS relocation kit which is a bit more involved but not a difficult job at all. I’ve yet to crack open the T-case to do the diff spool which I don’t think will be that bad. I also got Cruiser Outfitters T-case rebuild kit so it’ll have all new bearings and seals, truck has 240K on it and I’d like it to make it through the apocalypse or the next election cycle which ever comes first. ha. I’ll make a post when I do get around to it, plan to pull the case and do it on the bench
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carnage @ Fordyce .... time for the delta reinforce kit and also get my steering box rebuild by Redhead and tap for PSC next.
Yesterday my back was killing me, so I abstained from the carpentry work, and decided to go through the 80 collection I've started to accumulate. Luck was on my side when driving these across the country, as sorting through the factory tool kits, if they were there, I would have been road kill because of certain key tools to change a flat tire, such as the proper size lug wrench to get the spare off of the factory swing out on my Dubai imported 97 (why the lug nuts for the spare are a different size is beyond my reasoning?), ...to not having the extension with hook to crank down the spare from underneath on my U.S. spec 93.
However, the 93 did come with two tool kits, with one I'm assuming is mostly complete. Does anyone have a complete tool kit they could lay out and snap a picture of?
There's a couple pieces that I'm uncertain of their function, with one that may not even belong (pictured below). In question, a 6 to 8" long socket that resembles the spark plug socket, but clearly too small (maybe for a chainsaw spark plug?), Approximately 16mm. It does say Toyota on the side.
However, the 93 did come with two tool kits, with one I'm assuming is mostly complete. Does anyone have a complete tool kit they could lay out and snap a picture of?
There's a couple pieces that I'm uncertain of their function, with one that may not even belong (pictured below). In question, a 6 to 8" long socket that resembles the spark plug socket, but clearly too small (maybe for a chainsaw spark plug?), Approximately 16mm. It does say Toyota on the side.
I've got a spare T-case from a 97 w/ under 200k on it which is what I'm planning on putting the part-time kit in. Probably just freshen up seals and call it good. Thought about doing a full rebuild but figured using the spare and keeping my old one I'd be fine for a while.
