What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (19 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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Got my self destruct switch installed… Kidding, this is for power to my Goal Zero/fridge. Wanted something I could have on while on the highway and shut off and let the goal zero battery maintain the fridge and other items as needed. Worked out really well. Then took some 4WD time to go wheeling to the swim spot!
Switch in!
Here’s what things look like just after the first smoke test:
Switch in!
Here’s what things look like just after the first smoke test:
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RevISK
SILVER Star
Dude, you don’t need any spares… you are far more dialed in than many if not most.
haha, thanks for the vote of confidence! Been driving the truck a lot recently and it just feels right. The stoke is real.
Man that early mini truck is so awesome. Need one of those in my life
I (mostly) finished up the 80 rear swap yesterday. The cruiser drives so much better with 4.10s compared to the 4.88s that were in the 60 axle. It was too torquey and with a 5 speed, I was constantly shifting. I ended up swapping in an 80 ebrake cable and it holds although it does still need a little adjustment. It will hold on moderate grades but still slips on super steep hills. I got the pinion angle clocked to the tcase as well which took care of some shimmy at 50mph+ I'm stoked to be able to drive this thing on the highway now with the rpms sub 3000 RPM. I still need to swap in the 80 master cylinder and prop valve, but for now it runs drives and stops.
While doing this I also put in some dobinsons IMS shocks which are super stout compared to the Bilsteins they replaced.
@Lucky1386 sorry I didn't get a chance to measure from the center pin to flange before it was bolted back in. I never actually measured even beforehand. Just kept eyeballing it until it looked right and then tacked the perches on. I'll see how bad it is when I do an alignment
I just copied the perch to perch centerline from the 60 axle on mine. Nice work
Any reason you are using the 80 series prop valve? Ive been running my original FJ60 one with good success. The one thats like bolted under the MC.
The ONLY thing the 60 series axles has thats better than the 80 axles is the parking brake. The 60 series parking brake is superb. The 80 series one is kinda meh. Shoe sizes are way smaller
I thought the cool kids put an adjustable prop valve on under the MC. If I don't have to I won't. Less non OEM nonsense
I used the adjustable Willwood prop valve on my old 4runner only because I had to. The oem valve on the 60 does really well on my swap so far! Id stick with oem
Aisin blower motor from @cruisermatt is significantly quieter than the 4seasons one that it replaced. On the 4seasons one you could hear the brushes click louder than the wind noise from the fan itself haha
I did. I cleaned it up and just reused it. Aisin makes the oem one so it’s the same. You can tell because the brush motor is removable. None of the aftermarket blowers have the removable brush motor like the Aisin/oem one. Also, the 4 seasons one doesn’t come with a plug. This one you just literally plug in
cruiserinsanity
SILVER Star
I’m working on reviving it. It’s going to need a lot, but it’ll be a good patina truck.
More summer shenanigans in my adventure wagon
Actually used 4Lo some and was reminded how awesome that is with the granny low in my NV4500, and the clattery diesel chugging over everything, and creeping down steep inclines without needing the brakes.
This rig rules.
Actually used 4Lo some and was reminded how awesome that is with the granny low in my NV4500, and the clattery diesel chugging over everything, and creeping down steep inclines without needing the brakes.
This rig rules.
Those third gen mini trucks with the cleat beds were some of the best looking trucks ever made. Interior and exterior. What a good find!
Cruiser Cult
Supporting Vendor
Rebuilt a spare 60 fusible link.
Working on a DIY rear bumper... only bought the thing 3 years ago.. :/
How much gap should I give between the swingarm spindle and the tail light? This is 10mm and Looks tight to me, but I wonder if there's that much flex to a fully welded bumper.
How much gap should I give between the swingarm spindle and the tail light? This is 10mm and Looks tight to me, but I wonder if there's that much flex to a fully welded bumper.
The tail light housing comes straight back since it has the light dividers in it. I would pull that housing to test light bulb replacement
d'oh, hadn't even thought of that (I blame the 93F/78%RH shop)... probably as good a place as any to set it. thanks
EDIT: Didn't feel like bumping the whole thread just to say that 17mm was the perfect distance (ironically, that was the same measurement as from the rear-most surface of the body mount and the forward most of the bumper brackets, made for easy adjusting). Lens has to be slid out to the side, but there's plenty of room to do so AND get the housing out too, if there's a need. Made sure to check BOTH sides, just incase there was some twisting weirdness with the frame but all was the same on both sides.
Thanks again BurntToast for pointing out what should have been blindingly obvious, but wasn't (to me).
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