What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (21 Viewers)

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Installed an 80 series booster from City Racer along with a non-abs 80 series master cylinder. Used the cheap depth gauge for setting up the push rod depth on the booster.

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Great work on the axles, springs and brakes Godwin! I hope you will be able provide a report on your overall impressions regarding the upgrades. Any measurable improvements in stopping distances etc. would be appreciated as well.
 
I did it today not last weekend but I'm not startin' a new thread. Picked up my "new" 80 front axle. This one was a tad heavier than the rear, they said 528 lb including the pallet! That was fun in the rain by myself. Actually, it kind of was.

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I did it today not last weekend but I'm not startin' a new thread. Picked up my "new" 80 front axle. This one was a tad heavier than the rear, they said 528 lb including the pallet! That was fun in the rain by myself. Actually, it kind of was.

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And factory locked, nice find!
 
And factory locked, nice find!
Yeah I cant really afford it but I decided to snap it up. It is a chameleon. No rust in the middle from engine leaks. Then some rust further out around spring mounts because no oil leaking onto it there. And then no rust around the knuckles from all the grease...
So for doing the swap, is it ok if I install it before putting on manual hubs and the driveshaft always spins into the transfer case? I figure it's no different than forgetting to unlock your hubs on a 60 front axle.
 
Took advantage of a 2 hour break in the rain to get started on the new 1992 80 series front axle assembly. I pulled the drain plug and found only a small amount of metal stuck to it.

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That's because IT WAS TOTALLY DRY!!!!! not a drop of oil came out. So I filled it up with the old oil from the rear axle I got which was in great shape. I turned the drive flange a bunch of times to mix things up and drained again. Only minimal metal stuck to it and the oil definitely came out darker.

I stuck my scope camera up the drain hole and from the minimal amount I could see the gears seems ok. Maybe because it was just turning without 4wd engaged so no force applied?

There is a lot of backlash so I guess I'll have to pull it and adjust that. The rear axle has hardly any. The two photos below show how much the drive flange turns before a rotor starts moving. Could also be the birfs too I guess.

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Hood latch replacement thanks to @4Cruisers
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Had a tuning session on the VE pump. Replaced the fuel pin and changed the governor spring to a 3200 rpm. The 4BT has even more power and pep in the step.
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My truck made the Overland Bound FB and IG pages from Overland Expo East last week. As a result I got a sweet photo of the rig while I was spending money and drinking beer elsewhere. As far as tech, bought new Toyo MTs and mounted them myself on beadlocks plus balanced the tires with EZBeads.

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My truck made the Overland Bound FB and IG pages from Overland Expo East last week. As a result I got a sweet photo of the rig while I was spending money and drinking beer elsewhere. As far as tech, bought new Toyo MTs and mounted them myself on beadlocks plus balanced the tires with EZBeads.

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Bada$$
 
Got a few small things ticked off the list. Mounted up the new to me wheels and tires, got all my new heater lines connected, and started refurbishing the rear mud flaps.

I showed my wife a picture of the new wheel. "Sporty" she says. Sigh. Thus the post here - I need a new audience.

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