Not sure about the color combo, is that a beige stripe? Maybe white would be better on a red truck? That said I think the stripe itself compliments the vehicle pretty wellWhat do you think of these cream colored stripes? It's a $10 ebay vinyl kit. I goofed a bit on the rear door but not enough to make me want to redo it. I didn't really lay it out like you're supposed to, but it came out reasonably straight. Only spent 30 mins on it and free hand cut the ends with a razor blade. Ready to be removed at a moments notice
What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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Yeah it is closer to beige. I didn't want bright white and this was the next closest color to off white. It's probably not the best color combo, but it's not the worst either. I like it, so some day maybe I'll get a better color and spend a few more minutes to get it perfectly straight.
chased a wire in from the rear cargo light power source - then through the space in the tailgate.
installed an on/off switch, and some LED strip lights.
I went with warmer temp lights...and if this strip is not bright enough I can just run another strip right next to it.
(photo doesn't do justice since it's full sun outside)
after dark update...seems bright enough to make dinner under
installed an on/off switch, and some LED strip lights.
I went with warmer temp lights...and if this strip is not bright enough I can just run another strip right next to it.
(photo doesn't do justice since it's full sun outside)
after dark update...seems bright enough to make dinner under
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
had a great time popping the oil pump out of the block. Perfectly shaped wood dowel, sand mallet and a cushioned box underneath. Flopped right in and ducky towel covered it as if on purpose.
Finally finished up a carb rebuild and got it installed.
Before:
After:
Still need to do all my adjustments, but it runs so I didnt mess up the rebuild too badly I dont think?
Before:
After:
Still need to do all my adjustments, but it runs so I didnt mess up the rebuild too badly I dont think?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Definitely not if it runs! Way to go!
My FJ62 is at home in the garage with the interior disassembled. I spent the week visiting my Father-in-law who lives in Aspen (rough life...)
Anyway - while I was out running...WITHOUT MY PHONE...SO NO PICS...BUT IT REALLY HAPPENED
Ran into an 89 FJ62 with 51,000 miles on it! Talked to the owner, who said he ran it hard for 4-5 years, but since then it's been garaged and rarely driven. One re-paint, but everything else is still original. Interior was immaculate with the exception of a cracked dash pad.
Said in the past week he's been offered over 30K twice. I would guess at that mileage it would fetch north of $50K over on BAT.
Anyway - while I was out running...WITHOUT MY PHONE...SO NO PICS...BUT IT REALLY HAPPENED
Ran into an 89 FJ62 with 51,000 miles on it! Talked to the owner, who said he ran it hard for 4-5 years, but since then it's been garaged and rarely driven. One re-paint, but everything else is still original. Interior was immaculate with the exception of a cracked dash pad.
Said in the past week he's been offered over 30K twice. I would guess at that mileage it would fetch north of $50K over on BAT.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I buckled down and paid a little over $500, including a 25% MUD discount, for a new grey FJ62 dash for my '86 FJ60 with FJ62 instrument panel. Living in Aspen, he should fork over a little coin and have that fixed. For me, that was the 6th most expensive purchase for my project, behind the 3FE rebuild, H55f, OME suspension, 70-Series wheels, and BFG LT235/85R16 ATs.
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Started the day with a visit to one of the local dealerships to pick up some parts my brother ordered for me. Out of curiosity, I asked him what they would charge for a valve adjustment. It’s flagged at 1.5 hours plus gasket and grommets for the valve cover=$180.00 + parts. Then I asked if there was a mechanic in the house who might know how to do it! My brother introduced me to one, and he walked out the the 62 to listen to it run. He was a good guy who walked me through how he would do it: 1 thousandth under spec; cold adjusted. (Versus hot adjusted on the print out of instructions that the service writers use). I’ve got a few more miles to put on before it’s due, but it was an interesting visit.
Then I put on my 80 series rear wiper arm when I got home.
Then I put on my 80 series rear wiper arm when I got home.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I usually visit Cdan's and beno's old haunt on Alameda when I buy parts. And their service department has done a lot of work over the years on my 4-Runners when my sons were at UNM. Until Benny retired many years ago, I trusted Sauter Toyota in Santa Fe to work on my '84 FJ60. I also used ToyAutoMan in Santa Fe, who taught me the cheap secret of fixing a hard shifting situation - that little plastic seat under the shift lever.
I finally did my first and second valve adjustments, on my '76 FJ40 and my '84 FJ60. Next up, a warm valve adjustment on the 3FE in my '86 FJ60 now that the initial break-in is almost done. It's not really that hard to do, even on the 3FE.
How do you like the new rear wiper? I messed up when I ordered new front and rear wipers for my '86. I got the correct 4-Runner arms for the front but ordered a 4-Runner arm for the rear, instead of the 80-Series. I'm running the FJ60 wiper on the rear for now.
Made a trip to Mt Hood for a canoe trip. Still struggling with poor idle when cold, but once warmed up she seems to run fine.
Have you switched out the dash yet? If you have where was it on zero to ten PITA scale?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Surprisingly, I'd say five at most. Tedious, but not hard. Easier than it would seem, especially if you're only replacing the dash pad itself.
Where,d you get that neato cap for your temp sender?
I’ll let you know as soon as it rains! COME ON RAIN!
After the wiper arm I decided to tackle the issue with my 4wd light NOT coming on. There went the day.
-replaced top VSV=no change.
-tested all 3 VSV; all checked out=no change.
-swapped hoses to the VSV’s=no change.
-removed 4H switch from dash and tested good.
-removed instrument bezels to test 4WD indicator light; tested good!
-put all that crap back=no change.
-had beer=no change.
-verified front driveline was free no matter what the push button switch was on.
-bought some vac hose, and connected it to the hard vac line below the VSV’s and blew, and then sucked=holy crap there’s a leak!
Bingo!
-replaced top VSV=no change.
-tested all 3 VSV; all checked out=no change.
-swapped hoses to the VSV’s=no change.
-removed 4H switch from dash and tested good.
-removed instrument bezels to test 4WD indicator light; tested good!
-put all that crap back=no change.
-had beer=no change.
-verified front driveline was free no matter what the push button switch was on.
-bought some vac hose, and connected it to the hard vac line below the VSV’s and blew, and then sucked=holy crap there’s a leak!
Bingo!
Then I cut the hard lines just after the size transition in front of the t-case, sanded and reamed.
Replaced the cracked metal section with rubber vacuum hose for now. BACK IN BUSINESS!
I might make new hard lines with some 3/16” fuel line later...
Replaced the cracked metal section with rubber vacuum hose for now. BACK IN BUSINESS!
I might make new hard lines with some 3/16” fuel line later...
Super happy fun times...
