That looks good
What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (16 Viewers)
- Thread starter kbahus
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Is there a provision for mounting the license plate and a kit for reverse lights?
It looks slick!
I have a bracket for the license I just haven't mounted it yet. The reverse lights are just gonna be covered. I'm sure I could figure something out but I'm lazy.
did you weld the bumper your self or did you have someone do it?
Bought it built and powder coated.
I need to step up my game!Felt like a commercial, what with my leather driving gloves and patagucc jacket!
View attachment 2168768View attachment 2168769
Got out for some woods/rock/water/mud therapy. I always forget how much SE US mud STINKS!
little_joe
SILVER Star
I had 4x4Labs on my 80, best bumper ever. I wanted to get one for my GX, but Luke never answered a simple question, maybe you can help? I'm not a swingout guy, will the spare still fit underneath with this bumper?
I'm going to say no because you cut out the cross member and 3" of the frame to snug it up.
I'd second the "no".
4x4 labs has its own cross brace that supports their receiver. I'm 99.99% certain it wouldn't allow the spare to mount in the factory location.
I'm not a swingout guy either. My solution that I'm in the process of putting together is a 4x4 labs style bumper with a JW offroad door mounted tire carrier.
My DIY bumper is tube DOM with some aluminum plate panels screwed into it to act as filler/sliders. Its been a slow project. Hopefully it will be complete before 2021...
4x4 labs has its own cross brace that supports their receiver. I'm 99.99% certain it wouldn't allow the spare to mount in the factory location.
I'm not a swingout guy either. My solution that I'm in the process of putting together is a 4x4 labs style bumper with a JW offroad door mounted tire carrier.
My DIY bumper is tube DOM with some aluminum plate panels screwed into it to act as filler/sliders. Its been a slow project. Hopefully it will be complete before 2021...
Jeez! At least you were able to replace the motor.
Yeah. Removing the MC is actually not bad. Stupid how much Toyota wants for that part
Replaced all the window moulding trim with the black prado trim. One step closer to the stormtrooper black / white look for my GX.
repair was motivated by a leak in the moulding trim for the rear left quarter window.
ordered a kit on eBay (parts route store, I think) for like $160 or so with all 6 trim pieces.
the 4 doors are super easy - 1 screw and slide the old belt moulding out, slide in the new belt moulding, put the screw back in place.
the quarter windows took a lot of time, but were not difficult by any stretch. Homer has a video on the forum that shows everything you need to do the belt moulding for the quarter window perfectly, but I’ll do my best to summarize the steps I took.
tools needed: Phillips head screw driver, 10mm deep socket, 14mm socket, trim removal tool.
- flip the second row seats all the way up
- remove the kick plates by the second row doors (10mm bolt I think)
- remove the 4 seat belt bolts (2nd and 3rd row seats, 14mm bolt) these ones may need a little wd40 or something to loosen em up
- peel the carpet back from under the trim on both sides in the cargo bay
- remove the 2 Phillips head screws that hold the lower trim panel in place on both sides of the cargo bay
- remove the 3rd row seats
- remove the bracket for the 3rd row seats
- remove the black plastic hook on either side of the cargo bay near the barn door
- remove the trim panel from the floor of both second row doorways
- gently remove the weather stripping from the second row door frame
- very carefully begin removing the lower trim from the cargo bay. Start from the second row doorway and work up and towards the back. Be very gentle or risk destroying some of the trim panel clips. For the passenger side cargo trim, be careful and unplug the cable from the outlet before pulling the trim all the way out
- start removing the upper trim (start from the top of the second row doorway near the top of the seatbelt mechanism (large metal and plastic trim clip here, be gentle and use a trim tool)
Once the trim is all out, it’s smooth sailing.
- open the quarter window
- snag your 10mm deep socket
- near the seatbelt mechanism is a hole in the sheet metal with a pointy metal spindle sticking out, at the base of this is a 10mm nut that holds the window in place
- remove this nut
- apply light pressure and push the window forward
- it should slide forward enough that you can use your trim tool to gently pop up the clip that holds your belt moulding in place
- once the clip is removed, take your trim tool and work it along the base of the belt moulding. There are 3 beefy clips that hold the moulding to the window frame. Pry these out and the belt moulding will come out easily.
- clean the area previously covered by the moulding- it was pretty nasty and grimy on my car.
- your new belt moulding should have 3 clips already attached
- slide the moulding in place and press the clips down to lock in place
- gently work the weather stripping around the belt moulding to make sure it sits flush on it
- slide the window outward again, and pop the clip in place on the moulding
- put the nut back on to the window bolt and tighten
- carefully put back trim, re-bolt seatbelts, and, if applicable, re-install the 3rd row seat brackets and seats
from what I’ve read, a lot of folks opt to just snap the clip from the belt moulding and avoid removing all the trim and unscrewing the window bolt. Based on what I saw with everything apart...this should be totally fine. The little clip under the window doesn’t seem to actually hold the moulding in place with any real force. The 3 large clips on the base of the moulding lock it down.
that said, I’m super anal / ocd about this stuff, and wanted to do everything by the book. It was also good practice learning about removing the trim for when I eventually get around to replacing / re-foaming the subwoofer.
repair was motivated by a leak in the moulding trim for the rear left quarter window.
ordered a kit on eBay (parts route store, I think) for like $160 or so with all 6 trim pieces.
the 4 doors are super easy - 1 screw and slide the old belt moulding out, slide in the new belt moulding, put the screw back in place.
the quarter windows took a lot of time, but were not difficult by any stretch. Homer has a video on the forum that shows everything you need to do the belt moulding for the quarter window perfectly, but I’ll do my best to summarize the steps I took.
tools needed: Phillips head screw driver, 10mm deep socket, 14mm socket, trim removal tool.
- flip the second row seats all the way up
- remove the kick plates by the second row doors (10mm bolt I think)
- remove the 4 seat belt bolts (2nd and 3rd row seats, 14mm bolt) these ones may need a little wd40 or something to loosen em up
- peel the carpet back from under the trim on both sides in the cargo bay
- remove the 2 Phillips head screws that hold the lower trim panel in place on both sides of the cargo bay
- remove the 3rd row seats
- remove the bracket for the 3rd row seats
- remove the black plastic hook on either side of the cargo bay near the barn door
- remove the trim panel from the floor of both second row doorways
- gently remove the weather stripping from the second row door frame
- very carefully begin removing the lower trim from the cargo bay. Start from the second row doorway and work up and towards the back. Be very gentle or risk destroying some of the trim panel clips. For the passenger side cargo trim, be careful and unplug the cable from the outlet before pulling the trim all the way out
- start removing the upper trim (start from the top of the second row doorway near the top of the seatbelt mechanism (large metal and plastic trim clip here, be gentle and use a trim tool)
Once the trim is all out, it’s smooth sailing.
- open the quarter window
- snag your 10mm deep socket
- near the seatbelt mechanism is a hole in the sheet metal with a pointy metal spindle sticking out, at the base of this is a 10mm nut that holds the window in place
- remove this nut
- apply light pressure and push the window forward
- it should slide forward enough that you can use your trim tool to gently pop up the clip that holds your belt moulding in place
- once the clip is removed, take your trim tool and work it along the base of the belt moulding. There are 3 beefy clips that hold the moulding to the window frame. Pry these out and the belt moulding will come out easily.
- clean the area previously covered by the moulding- it was pretty nasty and grimy on my car.
- your new belt moulding should have 3 clips already attached
- slide the moulding in place and press the clips down to lock in place
- gently work the weather stripping around the belt moulding to make sure it sits flush on it
- slide the window outward again, and pop the clip in place on the moulding
- put the nut back on to the window bolt and tighten
- carefully put back trim, re-bolt seatbelts, and, if applicable, re-install the 3rd row seat brackets and seats
from what I’ve read, a lot of folks opt to just snap the clip from the belt moulding and avoid removing all the trim and unscrewing the window bolt. Based on what I saw with everything apart...this should be totally fine. The little clip under the window doesn’t seem to actually hold the moulding in place with any real force. The 3 large clips on the base of the moulding lock it down.
that said, I’m super anal / ocd about this stuff, and wanted to do everything by the book. It was also good practice learning about removing the trim for when I eventually get around to replacing / re-foaming the subwoofer.
I feel the same happy face seeing that project!Took some measurements of the rear bumper area so my new rear bumper could get finished.View attachment 2171081View attachment 2171082
Looks great dood!
Bummed. Did an oil change and PCV change out recently and that was nice. However, was annoyed on a road trip with a dead bulb flasher. I thought for sure it was a disconnected line on the ARB bumper in the front. It wasnt but I was able to dress up the cables and use proper connection rather than splices.
What bugs me is I cannot figure out what is going on with my passenger side. With the ARB light assembly connected, something is crossing over and sending power to the turn bulb all the time. It makes for a nice orange glow on the front, but the fun part is when I turn on my right blinker. The ARB assembly alternates the white and amber bulb. My symmetrical views are out of wack! It seems that it did this from the start, but not all my little parking bulb (196?) were not working to really show the full issue.
What bugs me is I cannot figure out what is going on with my passenger side. With the ARB light assembly connected, something is crossing over and sending power to the turn bulb all the time. It makes for a nice orange glow on the front, but the fun part is when I turn on my right blinker. The ARB assembly alternates the white and amber bulb. My symmetrical views are out of wack! It seems that it did this from the start, but not all my little parking bulb (196?) were not working to really show the full issue.
