Did you try to yank the FJ Cruiser?
Builds What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week?
- Thread starter murf
- Start date
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Did you try to yank the FJ Cruiser?
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Few times I pulled people out with my 04 4Runner and my now gone 100 series I always backed up and pulled forward. Not sure what else but for me it was because of the smaller revere cut ring gear in the front. My 100 series was a 2000 which I understand was stronger then the 98/99, two pinion compared to four pinion. Not sure what is in the 80 series.
No yanking, that's a good rule.hahaa. I got to the point of diminishing returns very quickly so it was a game of time, keep him from sliding down and hope I could figure another angle. All the vehicle owners were solid on helping out until he got out safely. The 4x4 tow got there and saw easy money.
The razor atvs are useless noise makers and couldn't venture any further than I could, they were all over the place.
Zona
Yanking would work if done properly.
80 also has the smaller HP 8" front diff, then there is birfield.
Doug Whalen
Canuck Cruiser
new left front axle bearing...ouch.....also new battery
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
It is a high pinion at least. I wasn't wondering about the two pinion versus the four pinion in the diff, tough not sure what that means. I didn't realize direction mattered on the birfield. I thought it was keeping the steering wheel straight. At least with a solid axle your not having to deal with up and down as well. Something I need to deal with on the 4Runner.
If anyone knows of a good write on how to change them I could use some help. Bought a Haynes manual that covers Tacoma, T100 and 4Runners. It's pretty vague on how to do it. Dust cap, nut, drive out with brass punch on the lower end is pretty much straight forward. Says to remove the lower arm and refers to another chapter. The page that is suppose to have the lower arm in that chapter doesn't even mention lower arm. It also doesn't address the upper CV joint where it goes into the axle. Does it simply pull out? Also says nothing about where you want to support the vehicle. To change the tire you lift it by the lower wish bone. Not going work to replace the CV joint. Probably need to look in another site. The section on mud for this area non LC I can only find that it's a 30 minute job on the trail and the poster had done it in fifteen minutes. The rest of the that thread was pretty much was about the adding lock hubs and being able to drive out in 2WD. Pretty much the same as birfield. Not sure if it's easy than a birfield to change on the trail it does sound like a cleaner operation. Having never dealt with one of these before I didn't realize they came as a complete unit with both boots. I know the wheel bearings are sealed on our 04 4Runner. Guess the 99 is the same. Since these are subject to breakage I guessing aftermarket is the way to go (sorry murf). $55 rebuilt or $70 new, both with lifetime warranty.
Where are you getting the new CV from?
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Napa only seem to carry the boots. BAP they were $48 rebuilt with only one year warranty. They no longer have a web site with new owners according to the guy I talked to on the Phone. Core was only $10. Not sure of the price of new at Auto Zone was around $10 more then O'Reilly's. Rebuilt is $55 with a $100 core. O'Reilly's was $55 rebuilt with a $45 core. Just under $70 new. Lifetime warranty at both Auto Zone and O'Reilly's. I went into both Auto Zone and O'Reilly's. Only thing with O'Reilly's was Rebuilt weren't in stock. I have also been picking up some parts from a junk yard. I checked and they wanted $25 each.
Thanks. I'll check it out. I really want to figure the easiest way to do so if I need to do it on the trail I'll know what I'm doing as well as having everything needed.
Did you try Copper State Cruisers commercial account pricing at Autozone?
CSC commercial/wholesale accounts
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
No I didn't but it does bring up a interesting point. Limited warranty excludes things like off road use. Might not be worth saving a few bucks only to have it highlighted your discount was from a 4X4 club when you turn the part in for warranty replacement. I will check to see how big a discount it is.
The link for the replacement was just want I was looking for, thank you . Need to secure a 35MM socket first which appear to be available at most places. Maybe see about taking the worthless Haynes manual to Auto Zone and buy one there.
So the leather was not ripped but had that cracking so I bought a leather dye (slate grey in this case) and put that on the seats. Then I put a saddle wax and sealant on it. It worked great! Be happy to share with others with the grey int. I have plenty.
Don't quite have a name for her yet, has to come naturally!
Birfield breaks for many reasons. Wheels turned, front axle locked, and going in reverse is definitely a recipe for disaster. I have seen video of birfield broke when going in reverse and wheels slightly turned (with no pulling load). I also know of someone who broke a birfield when going in reverse pulling a VERY light load with steering wheel straight. I would avoid pulling in reverse when possible. I do not enjoy those risk on trail.
FWIW my 80 series birf broke in reverse. I prefer to pull forward more for the safety factor.
bwesty
SILVER Star
Consider using the Cardone brand CV joints as another alternative to the factory Toyota parts. They work very well, good quality and reasonably priced.
